OIl?r  i,M.  Bill  ffiibrara 


Norlli  (Haralina  ^tatp  OloUpgp 

TS1493 
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NOV  2      1967 
r,E  B  2  7  1969 

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JAN  2  9  1^7° 

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1975 


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f  EB  2  6 1978 
MAR  1  8  1976 


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PRACTICAL 
LOOM  FIXING 

(Second  Edition) 


By 
THOMAS  NELSON 

Director  Textile  Department,  North  Carolina  State 

College  of  Agriculture  and  Engineering 

Raleigh,  N.  C. 


Copyrighted  1917  by  Thomas  Nelson 


PREFACE,  SECOND  EDITION 

The  reception  of  the  first  edition  of 
Practical  Loom  Fixing  has  been  grat- 
ifying. It  is  hoped  that  this,  the 
second  edition,  will  be  as  favorably 
received. 

THOMAS  NELSON. 


ku 


PRACTICAL  LOOM  FIXING 

BY  THOMAS  NELSON 

CHAPTER  I 
Plain  Looms 

For  fabrics,  such  as  sheetings,  print  cloths,  lawns,  mulls  and  other 
fabrics  that  are  woven  on  two  harness  shafts,  the  plain  loom  is  used. 
This  loom  has  the  shedding  cams  on  the  bottom  shaft  in  the  loom  and 
only  fabrics  that  ai'e  made  with  two  harness  shafts  can  be  made  on 
same.  When  fabi-ics  such  as  drills,  denims,  hickory  stripes  or  twill 
goods  have  to  be  made,  the  same  loom  can  be  used  with  the  addition  of 
an  auxiliary  shaft  to  carry  the  shedding  cams,  the  cams  being  driven 
from  the  bottom  shaft  in  the  loom. 

Plain  looms  are  divided  into  two  classes,  viz..  regular  plain  looms 
and  automatic  looms.  The  foundation  for  all  plain  looms  is  practically 
the  same,  the  only  essential  difference  being  the  automatic  attachment 
for  transferring  bobbins  or  shuttles.  The  various  movements  of  a  loom 
are  usually  divided  into  two  divisions,  principal  and  auxiliary  movements, 
the  principal  movements  being  considered  as  the  shedding^  picking  and 
beating  up  movements.  All  the  movements  must  work  in  unison  with 
each  other  if  the  best  results  are  to  be  obtained  from  the  loom.  The 
movements  may  be  itemized  as  follows:  1,  shedding  motion;  2,  picking 
motion;  3,  beating  up  the  fdling;(4,  let-off  motion;  5,  take-up  motion; 
6,  fdling  stop  motion;  7,  w^arp  stop  motion;  8,  protector  motion.  In  addi- 
tion to  these  there  is  the  tape  selvage  motion,  used  on  twill  and  sateen 
goods;  temples,  lease  rods. 

Shedding  ^lotion*/ 

Fig.  1  is  a  sketch  of  a  shedding  motion  for  plain  fabrics,  also  lay 
cap,  reed,  lay  and  lay  sword  of  the  beating-up  motion.  The  ends  for  a 
plain  fabric  are  drawn  through  the  harness  from  back  to  front,  begin- 
ning from  the  right  hand  side.  As  one  harness  is  raised  and  the  other 
lowered,  the  ends  are  opened  and  make  what  is  known  as  the  "shed," 
through  which  tho  shuttle  travels  with  the  filling,  hence  the  motion  to 
obtain  this  separating  of  the  ends  is  known  as  the  shedding  motion. 

Names  ef  Parts. — A.  is  the  harness  roll  on  which  are  the  collars 
B.  B.  Each  collai-  is  of  two  sizes,  one  being  about  one-eighth  to  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  larger  than  the  other.  G.  the  harness  straps  connecting 
collar  to  harness  D.  E,  .jack  stick;  F,  jack  strap  connecting  harness  to 
treadle  G.    H,  treadle  ball;  I,  shedding  cams;  K,  fulcrum  of  treadles. 

Setting  Shedding  Motion  ^f^'-^^^*^"^'^ 

When  starting  up  a  new  warp  there  are  two  conditions  which  it  is 
absolutely  necessary  to  consider,  otherwise  a  shed  of  suflicient  size  for 
the  shuttle  to  pass  through  cannot  be  obtained.  These  two  conditions 
are  first,  collar  on  harness  roll;  second,  the  shedding  cams.  The  collar 
is  of  two  distinct  sizes,  one  being  larger  than  the  other.  Jho  shodding, 
cams  also  are  of  two  sizes  one  being  larger  than  the  ofhei-.  Each  collar 
mustlie  arrnn^pr|  si^  fh;it  tho  strap  on  largest  part  will  be  cQnnop.fpd  to_ 
IniOk  riarnoss  and  flie  slu-dding  cams  must  be  set  so  tliaf  f lip  1-irg-pst  capi 
"^rtti~Tnso  operate  tlip  back  liai'ne.^&-^ 

.If  p-itJjpr  of  fhoso  fwp  pnnflifinnij  iirp  not  sfrirfly  carrier!  out,  tlie  shpd 
far  one  pick  will  be  largpr  than  the  sh^'^  ^^"^  (h^  "^^'^  p'ri-'r  The  reasons 
for  this  connecting  of  the  harness  to  the  harness  roll  and  treadles  can 


i3359 


10 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


more  readily  be  explained  on  reference  to  Fig.  1.  The  shed  is  formed 
from  the  fell  of  cloth  (fell  of  cloth  is  last  pick  of  filling  put  in  cloth), 
the  harness  and  lease  rods.    Jhe  back  harness  being  farther  awnv  from 


Figure  1 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


11 


the  fell  of  cloth  has  to  travel  a  greater  distance  than  the  front  harness 
in  order  to  ma^B~ttre  "saTEie  size^fJTstieff  for  the  shuttle  to  pass  through, 


Figure  2 


12 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


consequently  that  harness  is  connected  to  the  largest  cam.  Also  the 
back  harness  being  connected  to  the  treadle  nearer  the  fulcrum,  it  is 
necessary  that  the  treadle  move  a  greater  distance  to  compensate  for 
this.  The  front  harness,  not  having  to  move  as  far,  is  therefore,  operated 
by  the  smallest  shedding  cam. 

With  the  harness  roll  and  the  shedding  cams  in  their  correct  posi- 
tions and  the  harness  connected  up,  all  parts  of  the  shedding  motion 
should  be  level  when  the  harness  are  crossing  each  other. 

When  the  cams  are  level,  the  treadles  should  also  be  level  and  the 

treadle  balls  in  con- 
tact with  the  cams, 
the  harness  should  be 
level  and  the  harness 
roll  should  be  level. 
Not  only  should  the 
front  and  back  har- 
ness be  level  but  the 
ends  of  the  harness 
should  also  be  level, 
that  is,  one  end  should 
not  be  lower  than  the 
other.  The  harness 
roll  should  be  level  so 
that  when  the  harness 
are  open,  the  straps 
will  not  lap  under 
each  other. 

Fig.  1,  on  page  10, 
illustrates  a  good  set- 
ting of  the  shedding 
motion.  It  will  be  no- 
ticed that  the  harness 
straps  operate  per- 
fectly on  the  collar, 
there  not  being  any 
undorlapping  of  the 
straps.  The  front  har- 
ness is  just  low  enough 
to  prevent  chafing  of 
the  ends  by  the  for- 
ward and  backward 
movement  of  the  lay 
and  the  treadle  balls 
are  in  contact  with  the 
shedding  cams. 

Fig.  2,  on  page  11, . 
illustrates  a  very  faul- 
ty setting  of  the  shed- 
ding motion.  The  har- 
ness roll  has  been  set 
correctly  as  will  be 
seen  by  the  straps,  but 
the  front  harness  is 
too  low,  the  yarn  bear- 
ing heavily  on  the 
race  board,  indicated 
by  arrow.  The  treadle 
l>all  on  treadle  operat- 
ing back  harness  is 
indicated  by  arrow.  The  lay  is 
The  consequent  result  of  such  a 


Figure  3 


not  in  contact  with  the  shedding  cam- 
shown  as  being  up  against  the  harness. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


13 


spfling  as  this  is  as  follows:  The  ends  resting  too  heavily  on  race  board 
will  chafe  or  "button."  that  is.  small  lumps  or  buttons  will  be  made  on  th(; 
ends  through  the  rubbing  of  the  race  board  against  the  ends  when  the  lay 
is  moving  backwards  and  forwards  with  the  result  that  it  is  practically 
impossible  to  obtain  a  perfect  fabric  as  the  ends  will  be  continually 
breaking  oiit.  The  treadle  ball  should  be  in  contact  with  the  shedding 
cam  for  the  whole  of  the  revolution  of  cam  so  that  the  harness  will 
have  an  easy  movement.     With  the  treadle  ball  as  illustrated,  the  cam 


B 


1 


Figure  4 

will  strike  the  ball  and  this  in  turn  will  cause  the  harness  eyes  on  that 
shaft  to  come  suddenly  in  contact  with  the  ends  causing  many  to  break 
out  and  will  also  have  a  tendency  to  cut  the  harness  eyes  and  otherwise 


14 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


wear  out  the  harness,  thereby  producing  faulty  cloth  and  increasing  the 
cost  of  manufacturing  the  cloth. 

The  front  harness  should  never  be  set  too  close  to  the  lay.  If  the 
lay  strikes  the  harness,  the  harness  twine  will  be  cut  wherever  the  lay 
comes  in  contact  with  it.  Not  only  at  these  points  will  the  harness  twine 
be  cut,  but  the  lay.  in  striking  the  harness,  will  force  it  back  and  when 


A 


B 


Figure  5 

the  harness  is  at  the  bottom  and  is  knocked  back  by  the  lay,  the  top  of 
the  eyes  are  very  easily  cut.  This  is  because  the  ends  are  tight  and  cut 
into  the  top  of  the  eye  and  especially  if  the  yarn  is  hard  sized. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  15 

Sotting  Harness  Roll    t/^ 

At  A,  Fig.  3  (page  12),  is  illustrated  the  correct  method  of  setting 
the  harness  roll  when  the  harness  is  level.  This  is  indicated  by  the  heavy 
line  passing  through  center  of  roll  and  showing  that  the  harness  strap 
screws  are  directly  opposite  to  each  other.  B  shows  the  harness  open 
with  the  back  harness  strap  wrapped  around  the  collar  and  the  front 
harness  strap  unwound  from  the  collai'.  This  gives  the  easiest  working 
of  the  roll  and  harness  because  each  harness  shaft  is  raised  and  lowered 
its  required  distance  without  either  of  the  straps  lapping  under. 

Fig.  4  (page  13)  illustrates  a  very  faulty  setting  of  the  harness  roll  and 
one  which  is  very  often  seen.  A  illustrates  the  setting  of  harness  roll  with 
the  harness  level.  This  is  indicated  by  the  line  drawn  through  the  roll 
from  one  harness  strap  screw  to  the  other.  B  shows  the  result  of  the 
setting  when  the  front  harness  is  lowered  and  the  back  harness  raised. 
The  back  harness  strap  is  not  wrapped  around  the  collar  sufficiently, 
neither  is  the  front  harness  strap  sufficiently  wound  from  the  collar. 
This,  of  itself  and  on  this  pick,  does  not  have  any  unfavorable  results, 
but,  on  the  next  pick,  illustrated  at  C,  when  the  back  harness  is  lowered 
the  result  of  this  setting  is  very  readily  seen.  On  this  pick,  the  front 
harness  strap  laps  under  itself,  indicated  by  a  X,  and  this  raises  the 
front  harness  higher/th'^n  it  should.  Not  only  this,  but  the  harness  is 
given  a  sudden  jerk  Which  strains  the  yarn  and  when  fme  yarns  are 
used  this  is  often  the  cause  of  breaking  out  the  ends  and  making  uneven 
cloth.  This  jerky  motion  is  also  very  detrimental  to  the  harness  and 
causes  them  to  wear  out  sooner.  The  sketch  also  illustrates  the  strain 
that  is  put  on  the  back  harness  strap  and  the  harness  itself.  The  stretch- 
ing of  the  harness  causing  the  harness  eyes  to  be  pulled  tight  is  often  the 
means  of  cutting  the  ends  in  the  eyes,  as  well  as  cutting  the  eyes  them- 
selves.   The  life  of  this  harness  is  considerably  reduced. 

Fig.  5  (page  14)  illustrates  the  setting  of  harness  roll  directly  opposite 
to  Fig.  4  as  line  through  harness  roll  indicates.  The  same  unfavorable 
results  will  occur  as  in  previous  setting  of  roll.  In  addition  to  these 
defects,  there  is  also  the  possibility  of  another  defect  appearing  which  in 
its  results  is  worse  than  the  foregoing.  It  will  be  noticed  at  B  that  the 
front  harness  and  harness  straps  is  stretched  tight  on  this  pick. 

If  also  on  this  pick,  the  lay  should  knock  against  the  front  harness, 
the  top  of  the  eyes  would  be  cut  because  the  ends  which  are  drawn 
through  the  harness  are  tight  and  they  would  act  as  a  knife  on  the  top 
of  harness  eyes.  Especially  will  this  be  the  result  if  the  harness  twine 
is  a  little  too  flne  for  the  goods  being  made,  as  sometimes  happens, 
especially  when  the  warp  is  drawn  through  the  harness  by  the  drawing 
in  machine,  as  this  requires  a  spiral  spring  through  the  harness  in  order 
to  keep  each  eye  separate,  therefore  a  finer  twine  has  to  be  used.  Again, 
many  looms  are  constructed  with  too  little  space  between  the  lay  and  the 
loom  arch  and  it  is  very  difficult  to  keep  the  lay  from  striking  the  har- 
ness. In  some  cases  this  can  be  remedied  by  using  a  deeper  harness.  In 
any  and  every  CMse.  the  harness  should  be  set  so  that  the  lay  will  not 
strike  them  during  weaving,  as  this  causes  a  large  expense  to  the  mill 
as  well  as  a  loss  in  production  for  the  weaver.  The  back  harness  is 
raised  too  high  and  receives  a  sudden  jerk  when  the  straps  lap  under, 
as  illustrated  at  X  in  B.  At  C,  the  straps  do  not  have  any  bad  effect  on 
the  weaving,  the  bad  effects  resulting  from  B. 

Summarized,  the  setting  of  the  shedding  motion  should  be  as  follows: 

1.  Have  harness  roll  level,  harness  strap  screws  opposite  each  other. 

2.  Have  harness  level,  both  front  to  back  and  side  to  side. 

3.  Have  treadles  level. 

4.  Have  shedding  cams  level. 

5.  Have  treadle  balls  set  against  the  cams  so  as  to  be  in  contact  with 
the  cams  for  the  full  revolution. 


16 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


0.    Have  harness  set  so  that  the  lay  will  not  strike  against  the  front 
harness. 

7.     Have  harness  set  so  that  when  shed  is  open,  the  yarn  will  not 


Figure  6 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


17 


rest  oil  IIk'  r;if<'  plate,  ikmIIkt  he  I(m»  lii};li  oil'  the  race  plate.     II   is  only 
nccessai'v  for  flic  yai'ii  to  just  touch  the  race  plate. 

Timiiuj  of  Shedding  ]\Iotiuii  L^' 

A  shedding  motion  can  be  set  on  three  difTerent  timings  as  follows: 
late,  medium,  early.  The  medium  and  early  timings  are  most  generally 
used.  For  medium  timing  have  harness  level  with  crank  between  bottom 
and  front  center,  illustrated  in  Fig.  G  at  A.  For  early  timing  have  harness 
level  with  crank  on  bottom  center,  illustrated  in  Fig.  6,  at  B.  Many  loom 
fixei-s  measure  the  distance  of  the  reed  from  fell  of  cloth  and  tlien  set 
the  hai'ness  level.  Yov  uniformity,  this  method  is  not  as  preferable  as 
timing  by  the  position  of  crank  on  crank  shaft.  There  is  a  difference  in 
the  results  obtained  in  certain  fabrics  with  these  two  timings.  On  fabrics 
that  do  not  have  an  excessive  number  of  picks  per  inch  the  medium 
timing  is  very  often  used  but  on  fabrics  requii'ing  a  large  number  of 
picks  per  inch,  the  early  timing  is  preferable.  In  plain  goods,  such  as 
80x80,  the  only  way  in  which  this  number  of  picks  can  be  put  in  the  cloth 
is  by  eai'ly  timing.  When  this  timing  is  used,  the  ends  have-  crossed  the 
last  pick  of  filling  put  in  the  cloth  and  holds  it  in  place  so  that  the  reed 
has  only  to  beat  this  one  pick  firmly  into  position. 

CHAPTER  II 

Measurements  for  Size  of  Shed  v^ 

When  a  shedding  cam  has  to  be  constructed  it  is  necessary  to  ascer- 
tain the  stroke  of  cam  required  to  raise  and  lower  the  harness  the 
required  distance.  With  the  cams  already  on  loom,  the  size  of  shed  these 
cams  will  give  can  very  readily  be  obtained.  When  making  these  calcu- 
lations it  must  be  remembered  that  there  is  always  sonie  loss  caused  by 


the  stretching  of  the  straps,  the  method  of  connecting  the  various  parts 
and  the  setting  of  the  motion.  Xliisloss  amounts  on  an  nver.-^gp  fo  ahnnf 
three-quarters  of  an  inch.  '^ — '  "' 


L8 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


Take  for  exomple  the  following  measurements  of  a  shedding  motion. 
Length  of  treadle  from  fulcrum  to  point  of  connection  with  front  harness 
22  inches.  Distance  from  fulcrum  to  treadle  ball,  14  inches.  Stroke  of 
cam,  3  inches.  Distance  of  front  harness  from  fell  of  cloth,  7%  inches. 
Distance  of  front  of  shuttle  to  fell  of  cloth.  BVa  inches.  What  will  be  the 
size  of  shed?  22x3^14=4.714  inches,  distance  through  which  front  har- 
ness moves.  4.714x3.5-:-7.5=2.2  inches  size  of  shed.  2.2— .75=1.45  inches 
actual  size  of  shed,  after  allowing  three-quarters  of  an  inch  for  stretch- 
ing of  straps  and  lost  motion.  A  shuttle  about  1%  deep  would  be  used  for 
this  size  of  shed. 

Shedding  CaiiLS    >^ 

In  plain  goods,  two  shedding  cams  are  used  and  one  is  always  larger 
than  the  other.  The  largest  cam  always  operates  the  back  harness 
because  this  harness  is  farther  away  from  the  fell  of  cloth  and  has  to 


travel  a  greater  distance  in  order  to  make  the  same  size  of  shed  as  the 
front  harness.  The  back  harness  is  also  connected  nearer  the  fulcrum 
and  for  these  reasons  a  larger  cam  is  required.  On  twill  and  sateen  goods, 
the  cam  that  operates  the  front  harness  is  the  smallest,  with  an  increase 
m  size  of  each  cam  that  operates  the  second,  third,  fourth  and  fifth  har- 
ness, respectively. 

All  shedding  cams  have  a  certain  amount  of  pause  or  dwell,  that  is. 
each  harness  when  full  open  is  stationary  a  certain  length  of  time  to 
allow  the  shuttle  to  i)ass  through  the  slied.  This  is  often  called  the 
dwell  of  the  cams,  and  has  a  certain  relation  to  the  time  occupied  bv 
one  revolution  of  crank  shaft. 

The  shedding  cams  for  plain  goods  may  be  classed  under  three 
heads:  First,  one-third  dwell  cam;  second,  one-half  dwell  cam:  third, 
two-thirds  dwell  cam.  The  term  dwell,  refers  to  the  portion  of  a  revolu- 
tion of  crank  shaft  that  the  harness  dwells  or  is  stationary.  The  one- 
third  dwell  cam  can  only  be  used  on  narrow  looms,  because' of  the  short 
time  the  harness  remains  open  for  the  shuttle  to  pass  through. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


19 


When  tender  or  poor  yarns  have  to  be  woven  this  dwell  cam  may 
be  iised.  A  smaller  shuttle  has  often  to  be  used  so  as  to  get  clear  through 
the  shed  on  time. 

The  one-half  dwell  cam  is  the  best  practical  cam  that  can  be  used. 
The  harness  are  open  for  one-half  revolution  of  crank  shaft,  which  gives 
sufficient  time  for  the  shuttle  to  get  clear  through  the  shed,  and  one-half 
revolution  for  the  harness  to  change.  This  cam  is  frequently  used  on 
narrow  looms,  always  on  medium  width  looms  and  often  on  wide  looms. 

The  two-third  dwell  cam,  when  used,  is  only  used  on  extra  wide 
looms,  which  requires  extra  time  for  the  shuttle  to  pass  through  the 
shed  from  one  shuttle  box  to  the  other.  The  harness  are  open  for  two- 
thirds  revolution  of  crank  shaft,  but  this  only  leaves  one-third  revolution 
in  which  to  change  the  harness,  consequently  a  sudden  movement  is 


given  to  the  harness  which  has  a  tendency  to  strain  the  yarn  and  also 
tends  to  quickly  wear  out  the  harness.  Soft  or  tender  yarns  cannot  be 
woven  with  this  cam,  because  of  the  sudden  changing  of  the  harness. 

Construction  of  Cams   ' 

Cams  should  be  constructed  so  that  the  harness  will  be  raised  or 
lowered  without  any  jumping  or  jerking  motion.  The  easier  the  harness 
can  be  moved  up  and  down,  the  better  will  be  the  weaving.  In  construc- 
ting a  cam,  are  should  be  taken  so  that  there  will  not  be  any  depressions 
in  same  or  the  treadle  ball  will  have  a  tendency  to  lock  or  bind,  especially 
with  a  small  ball. 

The  following  illustrations  are  given  to  show  in  a  clear  way  the 
principle  on  which  cams  for  plain  weaves  are  constructed.  Three  cams 
are  given,  each  having  the  same  measurement,  but  with  different  dwells: 
Fig.  7  (page  17)  having  one-third  dwell,  Fig.  8  (page  18)  one-half  dwell, 
Fig.  9  two-thirds  dwell. 

To  make  plain  goods,  two  cams  are  necessary  as  pattern  repeats  on 
two  picks,  but  only  one  cam  need  be  illustrated,  as  this  will  show  the 


20  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

principle.  Measurements:  diameter  of  pick  cam  shaft,  1%  inches;  diam- 
eter of  c'lmi  huh.  !(;  inoij:  .Nfioive  of  cam.  3  inclie.>;;  diameter  of  treadle 
ball,  2  inches;  dwell  %  revolution  of  crank  shaft. 

To  construct  cam:  One,  describe  circle  A,  which  equals  diameter  of 
shaft;  two,  describe  circle  B,  which  equals  hub  or  inner  throw  of  cam; 
three,  describe  circle  C,  which  equals  the  radius  and  center  of  treadle 
ball,  with  ball  in  contact  with  inner  throw  of  cam:  four,  describe  circle 
D,  which  equals  the  radius  and  center  of  treadle  ball,  with  ball  in  contact 
with  outer  throw  of  cam;  five,  divide  circles  into  as  many  parts  as  there 
are  picks  in  itatlern.  This  is  shown  by  line  E  F;  six,  mark  off  dwell  on 
each  half  of  circles,  illustrated  by  G.  H.  I.  K;  seven,  divide  space  between 
G  I  and  H  K  into  six  equal  parts;  eight,  divide  the  space  between  circles 
C  and  D  in  six  unequal  parts,  having  smallest  on  outside  and  largest  in 
center;  nine,  begin  at  one  side  with  bottom  corner  of  unequal  parts,  and 
on  each  of  the  corners  describe  circle  as  made  by  treadle  hall.  This  will 
finish  on  outer  circle  on  that  side  at  H.  On  opposite  side  begin  on  outer 
circle,  at  G,  and  finish  on  inner  circle.  Ten,  make  outline  of  cam  by 
curved  line  touching  extremities  of  treadle  ball. 

CHAPTER  III 

Picking  Motion    ^ 

This  is  one  of  the  most  important  motions  on  the  loom.  It  is  this 
motion  that  causes  so  much  power  to  be  required  to  drive  the  loom. 

Description  of  Picking  ^lotion     \/ 

Unless  all  parts  are  adjusted  and  set  correctly,  there  will  be  a  consid- 
erable waste  in  supplies  such  as  breaking  of  picker  sticks,  lug  straps, 
shuttles,  etc.,  as  well  as  a  loss  of  production  caused  by  loom  having  to 
stop  to  replace  broken  parts.  Especially  will  this  be  the  case  when  too 
much  "pick"  is  used.  It  is  the  aim  of  all  good  loom  fixers  to  reduce  the 
"pick"  lequired  to  drive  the  shuttle  across  the  lay  to  its  lowest  amount 
for  in  this  way  the  loom  runs  with  the  smallest  amount  of  attention  from 
the  fixer. 

The  picking  motion  on  a  cotton  loom  is  generally  known  as  the  "cone" 
(ir— ball"'  pick  and  is  illustrated  at  Fig.  10  (page  21).  The  pick  cam  A  is 
fixed  in  the  pick  cam  shaft  in  the  loom.  Above  the  cam  the  cone  B  is 
connected  to  the  picking  shaft  C,  the  shaft  being  held  to  the  side  of  the 
loom  by  two  pick  shaft  boxes.  The  picking  arm  D  extends  downward 
from  the  picking  shaft  and  to  this  shaft  is  connected  the  lug  straps. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  picking  cone  is  not  set  directly  over  the 
center  of  the  picking  cam.  With  this  arrangement  the  picking  cam 
comes  in  contact  with  the  cone  forcing  it  upward,  whereas  if  the  cone 
had  been  directly  over  the  center  of  picking  cam,  the  cam  would  have  a 
tendency  to  drive  the  picking  shaft  forward  against  the  pick  shaft  box. 

A  point  to  be  noticed  in  regard  to  this  picking  cam  is  the  shape.  This 
shape  of  cam  gives  a  gradual  development  of  power  or  force  behind  the 
shuttle,  or  in  other  words,  a  gradual  increase  in  speed  is  given  to  the 
shuttle  from  the  beginning  of  pick  until  the  shuttle  leaves  the  picker. 
This  principle  of  driving  the  shuttle  is  much  preferable  to  a  sudden  blow. 

The  shape  of  the  pick  point  also  deserves  consideration.  If  the  pick 
point  F  is  too  hollow  there  is  a  tendency  to  lock  or  bind  the  cone  which 
gives  a  jump  to  the  motion  and  occasionally  tends  to  break  the  picking 
shaft.  With  the  pick  point  too  narrow  and  straight  a  soft  pick  is  the 
result,  causing  the  loom  to  bang  off. 

Some  picking  cams  have  a  circular  base  with  a  large  pick  point. 
These  cams  are  generally  keyed  on  the  shaft,  and  adjustment  in  timing  of 
pick  can  be  made  by  moving  the  pick  point  backward  or  forward. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


21 


On  a  new  loom  the  pick  point  should  be  flush  with  the  outer  end  of 
picking  cone.  On  a  loom  that  has  been  in  operation  for  a  number  of 
years  it  is  sometimes  necessai-y  to  move  the  cam  nearer  the  side  of  the 
loom  in  order  to  obtain  the  power  required.  The  picking  shaft  should 
bij  set  so  that  the  picking  cone  will  drop  on  the  cam  immediately  after 
picking  and  travel  around  tlie  cam  until  it  is  picked  again.  If  the  shaft 
is  not  set  correctly,  the  cone  does  not  droj)  immediately  and  in  some 
cases  only  comes  in  contact  with  the  cam  just  previous  to  picking,  caus- 
ing a  weak  pick.    Care  should  be  taken  in  setting  the  picking  shaft  so  as 


Figure  10 

to  have  the  cone  full  into  the  pick  point  and  also  have  the  end  of  pick 
point  full  against  the  cone  for  unless  this  is  done  much  of  the  power  is 
lost.  The  dropping  of  the  picking  cone  in  the  same  place  after  each  pick 
eventually  has  its  effect  on  the  picking  cam,  with  the  result  that  the  cam 
is  badly  worn  at  that  point.  This  can  often  be  remedied  by  the  use  of  a 
casting  made  to  corresiwnd  with  the  outside  of  the  cam  which  covers  the 
worn  part  and  this  has  removed  the  necessity  of  replacing  the  whole 
cam.  Considerable  saving  has  been  effected  by  this  because  of  the  tirne 
saved  that  previously  was  I'equired  to  replace  the  cam:  also  a  saving  in 
the  cost  of  the  cam.  In  addition  to  this,  the  adding  of  the  casting  to  this 
pai'ticulai'  i)oint  on  the  picking  cam  has  made  the  cam  more  rigid  at  that 
point  and  also  heavier,  consequently  a  firmer  blow  is  given  to  the  picking 
cone.  

Parallel  MIotion    U 

Fig.  II  (page  22),  illustrates  this  motion.  A,  picker  stick.  B,  parallel 
or  shoe.  C,  parallel  tongue.  D,  parallel  stand:  E,  plug.  This  is  one  of 
the  nidst  important  parts  of  the  picking  motion.  The  object  of  this  motion 
is  to  enable  the  picker  to  travel  parallel  the  full  length  of  the  stroke.  The 
parallel  stand,  fastened  to  the  rocker  shaft,  is  level  but  the  parallel  is 
so  constructed  that  the  picker  will  travel  parallel  with  the  bottom  of 
shuttle  box.  The  shape  of  the  parallel  is  obtained  by  using  the  picker  as 
a  center  and  the  distance  from  picker  to  end  of  parallel  as  a  radius.  The 
parallel  should  be  set  to  work  full  and  free  on  the  parallel  stand,  and 
should  not  work  to  one  side  or  the  small  projection  on  top  will  soon  be 
worn  away  or  broken  off  with  the  result  that  the  parallel  will  move  about 


22 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


when  picking  and  this  will  have  a  tendency  to  throw  the  shuttle  out. 
The  plug,  which  is  inserted  in  the  picking  stand,  must  have  the  face 
perfectly  true  or  this  will  cause  the  parallel  to  run  crooked  and  shuttle 
will  be  thrown  out.  During  picking,  the  parallel  tongue  forms  a  tapering 
contact  with  plug  and  guides  the  picker  stick.  Without  the  parallel 
motion  it  would  be  impossible  to  run  a  loom  because  it  is  absolutely 
necessary  to  have  the  picker  travel  straight  in  the  shuttle  box.  If  picker 
had  to  make  an  arc  of  a  circle  or  in  other  words  a  curve  from  back  to 


Figure  11 

front  end  of  box,  the  shuttle  could  not  be  driven  across  the  lav.    It  is  to 
dispense  with  this  curve  that  the  parallel  motion  is  used. 

Timing  of  Picking  Motion  ^ 

The  shuttle  should  begin  to  move  when  crank  is  on  top  center  The 
niotion  IS  set  on  this  timing  because  the  shed  is  open  to  receive  the 
shuttle,  also  the  shuttle  will  have  time  to  travel  through  the  shed  before 
shed  begins  to  close. 

If  the  picking  is  set  earlier  than  this  the  shuttle  will  have  to  force 
us  way  into  the  shed  and  this  will  chafe  the  yarn  and  break  out  the 
selvages.    Another  objection  to  picking  before  crank  reacHesTop  cenleF 


Fractical  Loom  Fixing 


23 


is  that  ridges  or  furrows  are  made  on  the  back  of  shuttle;  this  will  also 
cause  the  shuttle  to  rattle  in  the  box.  The  reason  for  ridges  being  made 
on  back  of  shuttle  is  as  follows.  The  lay  on  top  center  travels  at  its 
highest  speed  and  as  the  crank  moves  toward  the  back  center  the  speed 
is  considerably  reduced.  The  shuttle  is  therefore  being  delivered  when 
lay  is  at  its  highest  speed,  but  the  speed  of  shuttle  decreases  as  it  passes 
through  the  shed.  The  speed  of  the  lay  also  decreases  and  this  allows  the 
shuttle  to  keep  close  to  the  reed  and  get  clear  through  the  shed  and  into 
the  opposite  box  on  time.  If  shuttle  is  picked  before  crank  reaches  top 
cenlci-  I  he  lay  will  not  have  attained  its  highest  speed  and  as  the  shuttle 
is  passing  across  the  lay  there  will  be  a  tendency  for  the  reed  to  leave 
the  shuttle  behind  and  in  this  way  cause  ridges  at  the  back. 

CHAPTER  IV 

Setting  Lug  Straps 

These  straps  should  be  set  to  avoid  extremes  in  power.  To  illustrate. 
A  stronger  pick  is  made  by  lowering  the  stirrup  strap  on  picker  stick  or 
by  lowering  the  dog  on  picking  arm,  or  the  arm  itself..  A  weaker  pick  is 
made  hy  raising  the  stirrup  strap  on  picker  stick  or  by  raising  the  dog 
on  picking  arm.  or  the  arm   itself.     The  desired  result  is  obtained  by 


Figure  12 

manipulating  the  dog  on  picking  arm  and  stirrup  strap  on  picker  stick, 
but  extremes  should  not  be  used,  that  is,  the  strongest  pick  on  one  and 
the  weakest  pick  on  the  other. 

To  more  clearly  illustrate  this  point  Fig.  12  is  given.  Three  different 
settings  between  the  picking  arm  and  picker  stick  are  shown.  A  repre- 
sents the  picking  arm.  B  represents  the  picker  stick.  The  connections 
are  shown  between  C  on  picking  arm  and  D  on  picker  stick,  the  line 
representing  the  lug  straps.  At  section  marked  I,  the  lug  strap  is  at  its 
lowest  point  on  the  picking  arm  and  at  its  highest  point  on  the  picker 
stick.  The  best  results  will  not  be  obtained  from  this.  There  will  be 
extra  power  on  the  picking  arm,  but  it  will  be  lost  on  account  of  the  lug 
strap  being  high  on  the  picker  stick.  This  fixing  will  also  cause  trouble 
to  the  fixer  as  the  screw  that  holds  the  stirrup  strap,  which  in  turn  holds 
up  the  lug  strap,  will  either  break  or  be  continually  coming  out.  Section 
marked  2  is  just  the  opposite  to  that  mai'ked   1,  and  is  probably  more 


24  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

unsatisfactory,  because  of  the  power  being  applied  to  the  weakest  point 
first.  There  will  also  be  a  tendency  for  the  lug  strap  to  jump  up  on  the 
picker  stick.  The  most  satisfactory  setting  from  every  standpoint  is 
given  in  section  3.  In  this  case  the  lug  straps  are  set  level  with  the 
medium  power  on  both  picking  arm  and  picker  stick.  It  is  not  always 
possible  fo  set  the  lug  straps  absolutely  level  but  it  is  advisable  to  do  so 
when  possible  nnd  to  conform  to  practical  lesults.  In  any  case  it  is  much 
easier  to  chang(>  from  a  weak  to  a  stronger  pick  or  from  a  strong  to  a 
weaker  pick.  This  is  illustrated  by  the  dotted  line  which  shows  that  for 
a  weaker  pick  tli(>  lug  strap  can  be  raised  on  picker  stick,  while  for  a 
stronger  i)ick  the  lug  strap  can  be  lowered  on  picking  arm  and  still  not 
have  that  undesirable  extremes  of  power. 

The  lug  straps  and  picking  cams  should  be  so  set  in  relation  to  each 
other  that  there  will  not  be  too  much  play  between  the  lug  strap  and 
the  picker  stick,  as  this  causes  lost  motion  and  weak  picks.  To  illustrate. 
First,  lug  strap  on  one  side  of  loom  is  set  to  have  about  three-eighths  of 
an  inch  play  between  outside  lug  straps  and  picker  stick.  Second,  lug 
strap  on  opposite  side  of  loom  is  set  to  have  about  one  inch  play  between 
outside  lug  strap 'and  picker  stick.  With  the  pick  on  correct  time  the 
picker  stick  on  each  side  will  begin  to  move  when  crank  is  on  top  center, 
on  thcii'  respective  picks.  There  will  be  a  tendency  for  more  weak  picks 
with  the  second  setting  than  with  the  first  for  the  following  reasons: 

In  first  setting,  only  three-eighths  of  an  inch  had  to  be  taken  up 
before  lug  strap  came  in  contact  with  picker  stick.  In  second  setting, 
one  inch  had  to  be  taken  up  before  lug  strap  came  in  contact  with  picker 
stick.  This  means  that  in  the  first  setting,  the  pick  point  on  picking  cam 
will  be  just  beginning  to  raise  the  cone  on  picking  shaft  and  this  will 
bring  the  lug  strap  against  the  picker  stick  and  the  full  force  of  the 
pick  point  can  be  used  to  drive  the  shuttle  across  the  lay.  In  the  second 
setting,  the  pick  point  on  picking  cam  will  have  forced  up  the  cone  a 
certain  distance  before  the  lug  strap  is  brought  in  contact  with  the 
picker  stick,  thus  reducing  the  force  of  the  blow  because  much  of  the 
initial  movement  has  been  lost.  To  remedy  this,  the  lug  strap  will  have 
to  be  shortened  as  on  opposite  side  and  the  pick  cam  set  later  to  corre- 
spond, taking  care  that  the  picker  stick  and  shuttle  begin  to  move  when 
crank  is  on  top  center. 

There  are  a  number  of  different  kinds  of  lug  straps  used.  These  are 
made  from  wood;  single,  folded  and  stitched  leather;  ticking,  reinforced 
canvass,  etc.  A  single  leather  lug  strap  soon  wears  out  and  is  expensive. 
Folded  and  stitched  leather  makes  a  very  good  strap  as  does  the  moulded 
and  formed  ticking  strap  and  the  improved  reinforced  canvass  strap. 

CHAPTER  V 

Setting  the  Pickers 

The  majority  of  pickers  used  are  made  of  strips  of  leather  cemented 
together.  When  these  pickers  are  used  it  is  advisable  to  fasten  the  strips 
together  more  securely  by  three  fine  wire  nails,  one  at  the  top  of  picker 
and  the  other  two  at  the  bottom  as  illustrated  at  Fig.  13-A.  By  doing  this 
the  strips  do  not  break  apart  and  the  pickers  last  longer.  The' loop  which 
holds  the  picker  to  the  jiicker  stick  should  be  of  the  correct  size  so  that 
the  picker  can  be  securely  fastened  to  the  picker  stick. 

In  setting  the  picker  to  the  picker  stick,  the  stick  will  have  to  be  at 
the  back  end  of  the  box.  The  picker  when  fastened  to  the  stick  should 
not  come  in  contact  with  box  plate  at  the  bottom  of  box.  When  picker 
stick  is  at  the  back  end  of  box  it  is  not  straight,  but  at  a  certain  angle 
so  thai  when  fastening  the  picker  to  the  picker  pick,  if  care  is  not  taken, 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


25 


it  will  press  hard  against  the  box  plate.  It  is  advisable  to  cut  the  picker 
to  fit.  This  is  illustrated  at  Figs.  13-B,  13-C.  Fig.  13-B  shows  picker  on 
picker  stick  with  the  stick  straight  in  box.  If  picker  is  cut  at  dotted  line 
it  will  fit  on  picker  stick,  as  shown  at  Fig.  13-C.  No  part  will  be  in  con- 
tact with  box  plate  when  picker  stick  is  at  back  of  box. 

When  picker  is  in  correct  position  the  shuttle  should  be  pushed  full 
in  the  box  against  the  picker  so  that  an  impression  will  be  made  in  face 
of  picker.    At  this  point,  a  small  round  hole  should  be  cut.    If  this  hole  is 


Figure  13 


not  made,  the  shuttle  is  apt  to  strike  in  different  places,  but  by  making 
the  hole,  shuttle  will  strike  true  and  be  delivered  better.  Excellent 
results  are  obtained  if  the  hole  is  cut  from  one-sixteenth  to  one-eighth 
of  an  inch  higher,  that  is,  the  center  of  hole  to  be  made  that  distance 
higher  than  the  impression  made  by  the  shuttle  tip.  Under  no  circum- 
stances must  the  hole  be  made  lower  than  the  impression  made  by  the 
shuttle  tip  or  the  shuttle  will  continually  be  flying  out. 

It  is  advisable,  when  a  new  picker  is  being  put  on  the  picker  stick, 
to  notice  whether  the  parallel  is  adjusted  correctly  or  not.  Sometimes 
the  picker  is  too  low  when  shuttle  is  being  delivered  and  this  will  cer- 
tainly throw  the  shuttle  out.  When  this  occurs,  the  elevation  of  the 
parallel  will  have  to  be  changed.  On  some  looms_,  an  adjusting  nut  is 
provided  for  this  purpose,  but  where  this  is  not  provided,  the  picker  can 
be  elevated  at  delivery  by  inserting  a  piece  of  leather  between  the  top  of 
parallel  tongue  and  picker  stick,  or  between  tongue  and  parallel.  If  the 
picker  is  too  high  at  delivery,  a  piece  of  leather  inserted  between  picker 
stick  and  bottom  of  parallel  tongue  will  reduce  the  elevation. 


26  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

Saving  Pickers 

Leather  pickers  usually  consist  of  strips  of  leather  glued  together.  A 
saving  in  pickers  can  be  made  by  keeping  all  the  old  pieces  of  leather 
and  picking  out  the  best  pieces.  A  new  picker  can  be  split  in  two  pieces 
and  an  equal  number  of  old  pieces  of  leather  cut  the  same  shape  as  new 
picker  can  be  made.  These  can  be  glued  together  and  three  fine  wire 
nails  put  in  the  picker  as  indicated  at  A,  Fig.  13.  If  the  mill  has  drop 
box  looms,  the  old  rawhide  pickers  can  be  used.  The  picker  can  be 
softened  so  that  the  part  through  which  the  spindle  passes  can  be  made 
pliable.  This  can  then  be  flattened  out  and  the  piece  cut  to  the  same 
shape  as  the  leather  picker  and  nailed  to  the  regular  picker  leather.  A 
good  method  is  fn  have  a  layer  of  leather,  then  a  layer  of  rawhide  with 
leather  behind.  In  making  these  pickers,  it  is  of  course  necessary  to  keep 
them  the  same  thickness  as  the  regular  pickers. 

Setting  Picker  Stick 

Three  methods  of  setting  the  picker  stick  are  illustrated  at  A,  B,  C, 
in  Fig.  14.  R  is  to  represent  back  end  of  shuttle  box.  At  A,  the  picker  stick 
has  returned  almost  to  the  back  end  of  box.  The  bottom  of  picker  stick 
is  set  about  level  with  the  spiral  spring  to  which  the  picker  stick  is  con- 
nected through  the  heel  strap.  There  is  a  direct  pull  of  the  spring  to  the 
bottom  of  the  picker  stick,  which  makes  it  easy  to  pull  the  picker  stick 
to  the  back  end  of  the  box  after  picking.  The  spring  should  not  be  too 
strong,  only  sufficient  strength  being  required  to  pull  the  picker  stick 
back  to  its  original  position.  If  the  spring  is  too  strong,  the  pick  will 
have  to  be  made  stronger  to  overcome  the  extra  resistance  of  the  spring, 
which  is  a  waste  of  power.  At  B,  the  picker  stick  has  been  raised  froni 
one  to  two  inches  higher  than  A.  which  allows  the  picker  stick  to  stay 
in  the  shuttle  box  from  two  to  three  inches  from  the  back  end  of  box. 
At  C,  the  picker  stick  occupies  the  same  position  as  at  A,  that  is,  the 
bottom  of  picker  stick  is  level  with  the  spiral  spring,  but  the  heel  strap 
has  been  connected  between  the  parallel  tongue  and  the  picker  stick. 
This  keeps  the  picker  stick  from  three  to  four  inches  from  the  back  end 
of  shuttle  box. 

When  the  picker  stick  is  set  as  at  B  and  C,  it  acts  as  a  shuttle  check 
and  is  used  for  this  purpose.  Both  these  settings  are  used  by  fixers.  The 
objection  to  the  setting  at  C  is  that  the  picker  stick  is  kept  too  far  into 
the  box. 

In  both  cases,  extra  pick  is  required  on  the  shuttle  to  drive  the  picker 
stick  to  the  back  end  of  the  shuttle  box,  but  especially  is  this  the  case 
with  setting  as  at  C. 

CHAPTER  VI 

Binders 

Fig.  15  (page  28)  illustrates  various  shapes  of  binders  used  on  cotton 
looms.  A  represents  what  is  known  as  a  gradual  tapered  binder.  This 
is  used  on  drop  boxes  and  also  other  boxes,  and  is  made  of  malleable  iron 
so  that  the  shape  can  be  altered  to  suit  various  circumstances,  such  as 
dififerent  sizes  of  shuttles.  This  binder,  however,  is  usually  so  shaped 
that  there  wiFl  be  a  gradual  taper  on  same  and  the  shuttle  will  be  grad- 
ually checked  as  it  gets  into  the  box.  Also,  this  binder  should  grip  the 
shuttle  about  half  way,  or  near  the  center  of  shuttle. 

The  binder  should  not  be  bent  to  grip  the  shuttle  near  back  end  or 
there  will  be  a  tendency  for  the  shuttle  to  be  driven  crooked  across  the 
lay.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  pressure  being  on  the  back  end  of 
shuttle  will  release  the  shuttle  too  soon  and  the  shuttle  will  not  be  guided 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


27 


straight  out  of  the  box.  If  shuttle  is  released  too  soon  with  this  shape  of 
binder,  the  dagger  will  rub  against  the  frog  in  passing  under  it,  and  will 
also  cause  the  loom  to  bang  off.  This  can  be  seen  on  examination  of  the 
dagger,  for  the  point  of  dagger  will  show  the  effect  of  rubbing  against  the 
frog. 

B  also  illustrates  a  gradual  tapei'cd  binder  on  a  wood  base.  The 
adjusting  nut  is  to  allow  adjustments  to  be  made  according  to  the  width 
of  shuttle  and  clearance  of  dagger  from  frog.  With  gradual  tapered 
binders,  gradual  tapered  shuttles  should  be  used,  that  is,  shuttles  that 
taper  gradually  from  the  shuttle  tip  backwards  and  do  not  have  any 
shoulder  on  back  of  shuttle.    Such  shape  is  shown  at  A  and  B. 

With  this  shape  of  binder  and  shuttle  the  picker  stick  is  pulled 
almost  to  the  back  end  of  the  box  after  picking,  this  setting  of  the  picker 
stick  being  illustrated  at  Fig.  14-A.    It  is  only  necessary  to  put  a  piece  of 


Fiflurc  14 

leather  at  the  back  end  of  box  between  end  of  box  and  picker  stick.  What 
IS  generally  understood  as  a  shuttle  check  is  not  used  with  this  shai)e  of 
binder  and  shuttle.  When  shuttle  enters  the  box,  the  speed  is  gradually 
reduced  until  it  gets  to  the  back  end  of  the  box  where  it  is  held  in 
position  for  the  next  pick.  There  is,  however,  a  small  check  finger 
fastened  to  the  protector  rod.  wliich  in  a  way  controls  the  binder  so  as 


28 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


to  keep  the  shuttle  in  position  when  full  into  the  box.  This  finger  is 
fastened  to  the  protector  rod  with  the  opposite  end  under  the  lay  sole. 
When  the  shuttle  is  almost  full  into  the  box.  this  finger  should  be  set 
against  the  lav  sole  and  in  this  wav  the  shuttle  is  held  in  position. 
Illustrated  Fig.  21,  Page  38. 

C  illustrates  a  wood  binder,  and  when  made  as  with  full  lines,  would 
be  known  as  a  shoulder  or  blunt  binder.  This  shape  is  usually  used  on 
the  back  of  shuttle  box  with  a  side  protector.  The  shape  of  shuttle  used 
can  be  as  solid  lines  which  repi'osiMits  a  .shouldered  shuttle,  that  is,  the 
back  of  shuttle  extends  nearer  the  tips  of  shuttle  than  does  the  front  of 
shuttle,  in  other  words,  there  is  a  gradual  taper  on  front  of  shuttle  to 
the  end  of  tip  but  not  at  the  back.  The  shape  can  be  also  gradually 
tapered,  as  indicated  by  dotted  lines.  Many  fixers,  however,  prefer  the 
shouldered  shuttle  for  this  bindei-.  The  dotted  line  on  binder  illustrates 
a  method  of  using  the  wood  binder  on  front  of  shuttle  box  and  having 
practically  a  gradually  tapered  binder. 

D  illustrates  a  blunt  or  shoulder  binder,  on  front  of  box  with  center 
protector.     This  binder  is  made  of  cast  iron  and  the  shape  cannot  be 


-o  A 


< 


X 


:3  B 


53  C 


Figure  15 

changed.  A  shoulder  shuttle  can  only  be  used  successfully  with  this 
binder.  If  the  gradual  tapered  shuttle  is  used  with  this  binder,  it  will 
not  pass  straight  into  the  shuttle  box;  also,  when  shuttle  is  leaving  the 
shuttle  box  the  front  end  of  shuttle  will  be  forced  away  from  the  reed, 
and  shuttle  will  run  crooked  across  the  lay  and  will  also  have  a  tendency 
to  fly  out.  This  IS  clearly  illustrated  in  sketch.  One  end  of  shuttle  is  in 
contact  With  the  binder,  which  forces  back  that  end  because  there  is 
nothing  to  prevent  it  and  this  causes  the  other  end  to  be  forced  out  as 
will  be  seen.  If,  however,  a  shoulder  shuttle  had  been  used,  as  indicated 
by  dotted  lines,  the  binder  could  not  have  forced  back  the  end  of  shuttle 
and  It  would  be  delivered  straight  from  the  box. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  29 

Summarizing  the  above,  it  can  be  stated  thus:  On  looms  with  gradual 
tapered  binders,  gradual  tapered  shuttles  can  be  used.  On  looms  with 
shoulder  oi-  blunt  binders,  shouldered  shuttles  can  be  used.  Front 
binders,  with  few  exceptions  are  generally  gradually  tapered.  Front 
binders  have  the  center  protector;  back  binders  have  the  side  protector. 
On  fine  goods,  the  gradual  tapered  binder  and  shuttle  is  preferred.  If 
(he  shouldci-  shuttle  was  used,  it  would  be  too  hard  on  the  selvage  ends. 

Rehition  of  Picker  Stick  to  Binder 

As  stated  previously,  with  gradual  tapered  binders,  the  picker  stick 
returns  to  the  back  end  of  shuttle  box  after  each  pick.  The  checking  of 
the  shuttle  after  it  enters  the  box  is  done  by  the  binder  and  then  held 
in  position  by  the  small  finger  fastened  on  protector  rod  and  under  the 
lay  sole. 

With  the  shoulder  binder,  the  picker  stick  remains  in  the  shuttle 
box  two  or  three  inches  and  acts  as  a  check  on  the  shuttle.  Fig.  14-B 
is  the  setting  of  picker  stick.  When  this  shape  of  binder  is  used,  it  is 
necessary  to  use  a  shuttle  check,  or  have  the  shuttle  box  very  tight.  It 
is  not  advisable  to  have  the  shuttle  box  too  tight,  as  this  woars  out  the 
shuttle  and  increases  the  supply  bill.  The  necessity  for  having  to  use  a 
shuttle  check  with  this  kind  of  binder  is  as  follows:  The  shuttle,  as  it 
passes  from  one  shuttle  box  to  the  other,  travels  rapidly.  As  the  shuttle 
enters  the  box,  it  comes  suddenly  in  contact  with  the  shoulder  of  the 
binder  and  this  sudden  contact  causes  the  protector  finger  to  rebound 
slightly,  or  in  other  words,  to  release  the  binder  for  the  moment,  and 
shuttle  shoots  into  the  box.  If  the  picker  was  at  the  back  end  of  box 
under  these  conditions,  the  shuttle  would  rebound  and  it  is  to  prevent 
this  rebound  and  to  bring  the  shuttle  to  a  stop  gradually,  that  the  check 
is  used. 

CHAPTER  VII 

Beating  Up  ^ 

The  third  principal  movement  in  weaving  is  "beating  up  the  filling.' 
Fig.  16  (Page  30),  A  and  B  illustrates  this  motion.  The  names  of  the 
parts  are  as  follows:  Reed  cap  G;  reed  H;  lay  sole  K,  on  top  of  which  is 
fastened  a  steel  race  plate  or  a  wood  race  board;  lay  sword  L  which  is 
fastened  to  rocker  shaft  M;  connecting  pin  N  which  connects  the  crank 
arm  from  crank  to  lay.  Measurement  of  sketches,  28  inches  lay  sword, 
from  center  of  rocker  shaft  to  connecting  pin;  12-inch  crank  arm;  crank 
3  inches  radius.  The  figures  are  reduced  in  size  proportionately.  The 
sketch  A  illustrates  the  general  setting  of  the  crank  and  connecting  pin 
in  relation  to  each  other.  Sometimes  the  setting  is  as  illustrated  at  B. 
When  the  lay  is  vertical,  the  reed  in  full  against  the  cloth.  Sometimes  in 
beating  up,  the  lay  is  a  little  forward  of  the  vertical.  Very  seldom  is  the 
lay  behind  a  vertical  line  when  filling  is  being  beaten  into  the  cloth. 

The  curved  line  illustrates  how  the  connecting  pin  moves.  The  circle 
illustrates  the  crank  making  its  revolution.  The  radius  of  the  crank 
being  3  inches,  the  diameter  of  the  circle  as  described  by  crank  will  be  6 
inches.  The  lay,  which  is  at  the  fell  of  the  cloth,  or  up  against  the  cloth 
when  crank  is  on  front  center,  will  be  pulled  back  6  inches  by  the  crank. 
This  distance  is  illustrated  by  connecting  pin  on  lay,  having  moved  from 
N  to  S  in  the  curved  line.  When  crank  is  on  front  center,  the  crank 
arm  will  be  at  N  X;  when  crank  is  on  back  center,  the  crank  arm  will 
be  at  S,  Y.  The  intermediate  points  of  connecting  pin  between  N  and  S, 
show  the  various  positions  of  the  lay  with  corresponding  positions  of 
the  crank.  For  example,  with  connecting  pin  at  N,  from  M  to  N,  the 
crank  will  be  on  front  center.    M,  0.  will  be  position  of  connecting  pin 


30 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


when  crank  is  at  O.  M  P  will  be  position  of  connecting  pin  when  crank 
is  at  P.  M  R,  will  be  position  of  connecting  pin  when  crank  is  at  R. 
M  S,  will  be  position  of  connecting  pin  when  crank  is  at  Y  or  back  center. 

Two  points  will  be  noticed.  First,  the  distance  through  which  the 
connecting  pin  travels,  has  been  divided  into  four  equal  parts.  Second, 
the  distance  through  which  the  crank  travels  has  been  divided  into 
irregular  parts,  each  part  being  in  exactly  its  correct  position.  The  dis- 
tance from  0,  connecting  pin,  to  O,  crank  circle,  is  exactly  the  same 
distance  as  from  P  to  P,  and  R  to  R,  and  S  to  Y.  From  this  it  will  be  seen 
that  the  lay  does  not  have  a  regular  movement  but  has  what  is  knowTi  as 
an  eccentric  movement. 

Connecting  pin  moves  from  N  to  0,  while  crank  moves  from  X  to  0. 
Connecting  pin  moves  from  0  to  P,  while  crank  moves  from  0  to  P  and 


Figure  16 

so  on  through  the  movements.  The  lay,  therefore,  travels  the  fastest 
between  points  0  and  R,  and  slowest  between  R  and  R,  while  crank  is 
passing  round  back  center. 

A  comparison  of  A  and  B  will  show  that  A  has  more  eccentricity 
than  B,  which  will  therefore  give  a  firmer  beat  up  to  the  filling.  The 
eccentricity  is  caused  by  the  connecting  pin  being  higher  or  lower  than 
the  crank  shaft,  or  the  shaft  being  higher  or  lower  than  the  connecting 
pin.  In  B  the  crank  arm  is  in  a  straight  line  when  crank  is  on  front 
center.  In  A  the  crank  arm  is  on  a  plane  or  a  straight  line  when  crank 
is  on  top  center.  It  is  this  relation  of  the  connecting  pin  to  the  crank 
that  causes  the  eccentricity. 

The  eccentricity  of  the  lay  allows  the  shuttle  time  to  get  across  the 
lay  from  one  shuttle  box  to  the  other.  If  a  change  had  to  be  made  on  a 
loom  from  fine  goods  to  coarse  goods  it  would  be  advisable,  if  possible, 
Jo  mcrease  the  eccentricity  of  the  lay  because  of  the  firmer  beat  up  of 
the  filhng  which  would  be  obtained,  and  the  corresponding  increase  in 
time  allowed  for  the  shuttle  to  pass  through  the  shed. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  31 

Effect  of  Pick  on  the  Eccentricity  of  the  Lay  ' 

This  heading  is  given  because  it  is  sometimes  thought  that  the  pick 
has  some  efToct  on  the  making  of  the  eccentricity  of  the  lay.  This  is 
not  so  as  the  pick  docs  not  have  any  such  effect.  If  there  is  extra  strong 
pick  on  the  loom;  or  if  the  shuttle  is  too  tight  in  the  shuttle  box  there 
will  be  a  slight  retard  when  crank  is  on  top  center,  because  this  is  the 
timing  of  picking  motion.  This  retard  can  be  felt  by  placing  the  hand 
on  the  lay  cap  but  it  is  not  in  any  way  the  cause  of  the  eccentricity. 
This  is  merely  poor  loom  fixing  and  should  be  remedied  at  once. 

CHAPTER  VIII 

Take-Up  Motion 

When  the  number  of  picks  per  inch  in  cloth  has  to  be  changed,  the 
only  thing  to  be  done  is  to  put  a  new  change  or  pick  gear  on  the  take-up 
motion,  hence  calculations  for  this  motion  are  seldom  made.  There  are 
one  or  two  points  about  this  motion  that  are  not  as  clearly  understood  as 
they  ought  to  be.  For  the  purpose  of  making  these  points  clear  we  will 
divide  the  take-up  motions  as  follows: 

1.  When  motion  is  driven  from  bottom  shaft  and  one  tooth  in  change 
gear  is  equal  to  two  picks  put  in  the  cloth. 

2.  When  motion  is  driven  from  crank  shaft  or  lay  sword  and  one 
tooth  in  change  gear  is  equal  to  one  pick  put  in  cloth. 

3.  When  motion  is  driven  from  bottom  shaft  and  calculation  has  to 
be  made  for  change  gear. 

Fig.  17  illustratos  a  ti'ain  of  gejirs  driven  from  the  bottom  shaft  in 
loom.  One  tooth  in  change  gear  will  be  equal  to  two  picks  in  cloth.  A  is 
the  ratchet  gear  of  100  tooth:  B,  take-up  gear  of  17  teeth  on  same  stud. 
This  gear  meshes  directly  into  change  gear  G,  of  24  teeth,  which  is  on 
the  sleeve  of  pick  sleeve  gear  D,  with  21  teeth.  This  gear  transmits 
motion  to  the  tin  roll  gear  E  of  50  teeth.  The  circumference  of  tin  roll 
is  14V4  inches. 

In  take  up  calculations,  the  circumference  of  tin  roll  must  always  be 
taken  into  consideration  and  not  the  diameter  of  roll.  The  driven  gears 
are  multiplied  together  for  a  dividend  and  the  drivers  together  with  the 
circumference  of  the  tin  roll  for  a  divisor.  Result  of  driven  gears  divided 
by  result  of  drivers  will  give  a  number,  which  multiplied  by  2  will  give 
the  picks  per  inch. 

The  multiplier  2  is  used  because  the  motion  is  driven  from  bottom 
shaft  and  one  tooth  in  change  gear  is  equal  to  two  picks. 

100x24x50 

=23.58x2  =  47.16. 

17x21x14.25 

The  change  gear,  it  will  be  noticed,  is  24  teeth,  so  that  there  will  be 
48  i>icks  per  inch  in  cloth.  The  calculation  only  shows  47.1(5  picks 
per  inch,  but  as  there  is  always  a  certain  amount  of  slipping  of  cloth  and 
contraction  after  cloth  is  taken  off  the  loom  and  as  this  is  variously 
estimated  at  from  P/^  to  2  per  cent,  the  picks  will  be  right  for  the  change 
gear. 

In  all  take-up  motion  calculations,  the  ratchet  gear  is  a  driven  gear 
and~the  circumference  of  tin  roll  is  considered  as  a  driver. 

■  Somewhat  the  same  arrangement  of  gears  is  used  when  the  motion  is 
driven  from  crank  shaft  or  lay  sword  as  given  in  2.  In  this  case  the 
change  gear  is  generally  the  ratchet  gear.    The  following  gears  are  used 


32 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


on  one  of  these  motions.  Ratchet  gear  (change)  46  teeth,  take-up  gear 
12  teetli,  gear  fixed  on  sleeve  34  teeth,  sleeve  gear  12  teeth,  cloth  roll  gear 
60  teeth,  circumference  of  tin  roll  14%  inches. 


46x34x60 


=45.33 


12x12x14.375 

The  take-up  gear  has  46  teeth,  for  that  number  of  picks  per  inch  in 
cloth.  The  calculation  allows  a  little  under  that  but  when  allowance  is 
made  for  slippage  and  contraction  of  cloth  from  loom  there  will  be  46 
picks  per  inch  in  cloth. 

Fig.   18  illustrates  the  train  of  gears  when  motion   is   imparted   as 


JOO- 


-/7 


S- 


D2J 


SO-- 


*J7 


ce-ii- 


C///?A/0£  GE/7^ 


^E      mc//^caM. 


Fifiure  17 

stated  at  3.  These  gears  require  a  calculation  to  show  the  number  of 
picks  per  inch  put  in  the  cloth  as  the  change  gear  does  not  indicate  the 
number  of  picks  per  inch.  To  save  time,  a  list  of  gears  should  be  made 
showing  the  number  of  picks  each  gear  will  give.  Sometimes  the  calcu- 
lation is  made  by  proportion,  using  the  gear  on  loom  with  the  picks  in 
cloth  and  ascertaining  what  gear  will  be  required  for  another  number  of 
picks.  This,  however,  is  not  very  satisfactory,  because  it  is  not  always 
possible  to  get  the  exact  change  gear. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


33 


With  the  train  of  gears  in  illustration,  what  change  gear  can  be  used 
for  64  picks  per  inch?  In  this  calculation  the  picks  per  inch  are  substi- 
tuted for  change  gear.  The  answer  is  multiplied  by  2,  because  the  motion 
is  driven  from  bottom  shaft. 


H0x08 


:9.54x-  =  19  change  gear. 


Influence  of  Tui  Roll  on  Picks  Per  Inch 


i^ 


The  size  of  tin  roll  has  a  decided  influence  on  the  number  of  picks 
per  inchT  Any  variation  in  the  size  of  roll  will  have  a  corresponding 
variation  in  the  picks  per  inch.    This  is  a  point  that  should  be  carefully 


J/0- 


-/7 


63* 


B 


-C 


/£'4aRCC//1. 


Figure  18 


watched,  especially  when  old  tin  rolls  have  to  be  re-covered.  In  recover- 
ing tin  rolls,  the  old  perforated  tin  should  always  be  taken  off  before 
putting  on  the  new  tin.  If  this  is  not  done,  the  new  tin  covering  being 
put  over  the  old,  will  increase  the  diameter  of  the  roll  and  this  will 
cause  the  cloth  to  be  pulled  down  faster,  with  the  result  that  a  less 
number  of  picks  will  be  put  in  cloth  than  is  called  for  by  the  change  gear. 

If  the  circumference  of  tin  roll  is  increased  in  any  other  way,  the 
change  gear  and  the  picks  per  inch  in  cloth  will  not  correspond.    When 


34  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

sand  rolls  aro  used,  and  at  one  time  they  were  more"  in  use  than  at 
present,  the  surface  would  gradually  rub  and  wear  olT.  When  re-cover- 
ing with  this  "sand,"  which  is  a  combination  of  grit,  small  particles  of 
glass,  etc.,  the  circumference  will  be  made  too  large  if  care  is  not  taken 
when  doing  the  work. 

When  re-covering  an  old  sand  roll  with  perforated  tin,  all  the  old 
sand  must  be  cleaned  off  the  roll,  otherwise  an  uneven  surface  will  be 
left  and  this  will  show  clearly  in  cloth  by  making  it  uneven. 

Perforated  tin  is  now  used  almost  exclusively  for  cotton  goods,  but 
on  the  finer  grades  of  goods  extreme  care  is  required  in  selection  of  this 
so  as  not  to  damage  the  cloth  when  winding  on  the  cloth  roll. 

Setting  Take-Up  Pawl 

On  plain  goods  the  take-up  pawl  should  be  set  to  turn  the  ratchet 
gear  when  the  harness  are  level.  At  this  point  the  yarn  and  cloth  has 
the  least  strain  on  them.  The  most  strain  is  on  the  yarn  when  harness 
shafts  are  wide  open  and  if  the  take-up  motion  operates  at  this  time  an 
additional  strain  is  put  on  the  yarn. 

CHAPTER  IX 

Gear  Let-Off  Motion^ 

Fig.  19  illustrates  a  gear  let-off  motion.  This  motion  is  used  exten- 
sively on  plain  looms.  The  motion  is  controlled  by  the  vibration  of  whip 
roll  and  the  connecting  rod  from  lay  sword.  There  are  different  makes 
of  gear  let-off  motions,  but  all  have  the  same  governing  principles.  The 
parts  of  the  motion  given  are  as  follows:  A  clutch  lever  A  connects  a 
spring  rod  B  to  the  whip  roll.  On  the  spring  rod  are  two  springs,  a  long 
one  and  a  short  one.  An  upi-ight  lever  C  works  on  a  stud  fixed  to  the 
side  of  the  loom.  The  top  of  the  lever  is  on  the  short  end  of  the  spring 
rod  and  is  held  between  the  spring  and  the  collar.  To  the  bottom  of  the 
lever  is  fastened  a  round  iron  rod  D  that  is  connected  to  the  pawl  lever 
E  at  F,  the  connection  being  shown  in  small  sketch  in  corner.  The 
connection  F  is  directly  behind  the  vertical  shaft  G,  on  which  the  pawl 
lever  moves.  On  the  end  of  i)awl  lever  a  small  pawl  H  is  fixed  and  this 
pawl  turns  the  latchet  J.  A  small  spring  keeps  the  pawl  in  contact  with 
the  ratchet.  The  vertical  shaft  G  carries  a  worm  K  which,  when  the 
shaft  revolves  turns  the  worm  gear  L.  This  worm  gear  is  fastened  to  a 
small  shaft  which  carries  on  its  opposite  end  a  small  pinion  gear  and  this 
pinion  gear  being  meshed  with  gear  on  loom  beam  flange  transmits  motion 
to  the  loom  beam.  The  rod  M  is  connected  to  the  lay  sword  which  works 
free  through  collar  set  screwed  on  pawl  lever  rod  D. 

Setting  the  Motion   \/ 

Have  the  whip  loll  set  a  little  higher  than  the  harness  eyes,  with 
clutch  lever  A  as  ncai'  vertical  as  ])Ossible.  The  large  spring  on  spring 
rod  B  should  have  sutlicient  pressure  on  it  to  kee])  the  yarn  tight.  The 
pressure"  on  this  spring  will  be  determined  by  the  amount  of  yarn  on 
beam.  The  small  sjjring  should  not  be  too  close  or  tight  and  is  g'overned 
by  the  sti-ength  of  the  top  spi'ing.  This  small  spring  counterbalances  the 
oscillation  of  the  whip  roll  and  the  rebound  of  the  toj)  spring.  When 
the  harness  shafts  are  level,  the  upright  lever  C  should  be  vertical  and 
the  pawl  should  be  on  the  outside  of  the  ratchet  as  shown  in  large  sketch. 
When  the  harness  are  opening  the  whip  roll  is  forced  down  and  through 
the  spring  rod  B  a  slight  forward  movement  is  given. the  upright  lever  C. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


35 


This  causes  the  pawl  H  to  pass  over  the  required  number  of  teeth  on  the 
ratchet  gear  and  also  brings  the  collar  on  pawl  lever  rod  almost  in  con- 
tact with  the  small  collar  on  rod  M,  w-hich  is  connected  to  lay  sword.  In 
beating  up,  the  rod  M  will  pull  the  pawl  lever  rod  D  forward  and  the 
ratchet  will  be  turned.  The  small  collar  on  rod  M  can  be  set  to  come  in 
contact  with  collar  on  pawl  lever  rod  D  according  to  requirements,  but  a 
good  setting  is  to  have  the  reed  about  one  inch  from  the  fell  of  cloth 
with  collars  in  contact  with  each  other. 

Every  part  of  the  motion  must  work  freely.    If  there  is  any  binding  in 
any  part  of  the  motion  uneven  cloth  will  almost  certainly  result.    When 


e 


f 


fU//AfWAf/U///l'/, 


^ 


.;y^;^^' 


o 


4f.  /-    .  C 


f^roc/ 


Figure  19 

thin  cloths  are  being  made,  there  should  not  be  too  much  motion  of  the 
whip  roll  as  the  extreme  movement  is  likely  to  cause  thin  places  in  the 
cloth.  When  a  full  warp  is  put  in  the  loom  the  long  spring  on  spring 
rod  is  tightened  by  moving  the  collar.  This  reduces  the  vibration  of 
wiiip  roll  and  in  turn  reduces  the  number  of  teeth  passed  over  by  the 
pawl  on  tlip  I'atclief  goai'.  This  reduces  the  speed  (if  the  loom  beam  in 
letting  off  the  yarn  but  not  the  amount  of  yarn  let  off  because  of  the 
circumference  of  the  yarn  on  the  beam.  As  the  yarn  is  woven  off  the 
loom  beam,  the  circumference  of  the  yarn  on  beam  is  reduced,  therefore 
the  loom  beam  has  to  travel  faster  to  let  off  the  amount  of  yarn  taken 
up  in  weaving.  The  tension  on  the  large  spring  must  be  reduced  peri- 
odically so  as  to  maintain  the  full  width  of  the  goods  in  the  loom.  If 
this  is  not  done  the  cloth  will  be  pulled  out  too  long  and  will  be  too 
narrow. 


36 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


Friction  Let-Off 


V^ 


The  commonest  friction  let-oflf  is  a  rope  passed  around  the  drum  of 
the  beam  head  and  attached  to  a  weight  lever  under  the  loom  beam. 
Sufficient  weight  is  required  on  the  lever  to  keep  the  yarn  tight.  As  the 
beam  is  reduced  in  size,  some  of  fin*  weight  is  taiion  off.  In  damp  weather, 
when  rope  is  used  it  becomes  sticky  and  the  yarn  is  not  let  off  evenly. 
When  this  occurs,  the  rope  and  beam  head  should  be  cleaned  thoroughly, 
and  black  lead  or  powdered  graphite  should  be  applied  in  small  quantity 
and  this  will  allow  the  yarn  to  be  let  off  evenly.  Sometimes  French 
chalk  or  Talc  powder  is  used  but  this  is  not  as  good  as  black  lead. 

The  rope  should  be  kept  clean  at  all  times  and  oil  should  not  be 
allowed  to  drop  on  either  the  rope  or  beam  head,  as  this  will  soon  make 
the  rope  sticky  and  cause  uneven  cloth  to  be  made.  The  best  results 
from  the  rope  friction  seem  to  be  obtained  when  a  hemp  rope  is  used 
as  it  is  less  likely  to  become  sticky. 

Many  mills  are  using  chains  for  friction  instead  of  rope.  These  chains 
are  not  affected  by  changes  in  atmospheric  conditions,  that  is,  if  the 
room  should  be  damp  owing  to  a  change  from  dry  to  damp  weather,  or  an 
extra  amount  of  moisture  being  put  in  the  room,  there  will  not  be  any 
visible  effect  on  the  chain  let  off.  This  is  an  advantage  over  the  rope 
let  off.  These  chains,  however,  require  great  care  or  the  beam  head  will 
soon  become  grooved. 

POSITIVE  LET  OFF  MOTION    v/ 

Figure  20  illustrates  a  positive  let  off  motion.  This  motion  auto- 
matically  regulates   the    amount   of   yarn   delivered   as    the   beam    gets 


F'osinvE     Ler-  Off 

smaller,  or  is  reduced  in  size.     The  varn  is   let   off  the   beam  bv  the 
driving  pawl  E  in  the  same  way  as  in  the  Gear  Let  Off  Motion.'  The 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


37 


number  of  teeth  in  ratchet  gear  F  over  wliich  the  driving  pawl  E  moves 
is  determined  bv  the  position  of  Feeler  Arm  A  and  the  tension  on  spring 
B. 

Illustration  shows  a  full  beam.  Feeler  Arm  A  is  resting  on  the  yarn 
and  in  this  position  causes  lever  C  through  rod  D  to  compress  the  spring 
B.  Movement  is  imparted  to  the  let  off  motion  by  the  vibration  of  whip 
roll  during  weaving,  the  amount  of  vibration  determining  the  number  of 
teeth  in  ratchet  gear  over  which  the  driving  pawl  moves  thus  regulating 
the  speed  of  the  loom  beam. 

With  a  full  warp  it  is  only  necessary  for  the  driving  pawl  E  to  pass 
over  one  or  tw^o  teeth  in  the  ratchet  gear  F  fro  deliver  the  required 
amount  of  yarn.  As  the  beam  is  reduced  in  size,  the  spring  expands  and 
permits  more  vibration  of  wiiip  roll  wiiich  in  turn  causes  the  driving 
pawl  E  to  pass  over  more  teeth  in  the  ratchet  gear  F  and  this  turns  the 
loom  beam  faster  thus  delivering  the  correct  amount  of  yarn. 

CHAPTER  X 

Filling  Stop  Motion   l^ 

This  motion  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  21  and  is  an  alternate  stop  motion, 
that  is,  the  fork  is  raised  out  of  the  way  of  the  elbow  lever  on  every 
second  pick.    The  purpose  of  the  motion  is  to  stop  the  loom  when  filling 


Fi(jiii"e  21 

runs  out  or  is  broken  and  in  order  to  operate  successfully,  the  various 
parts  must  be  set  and  adjusted  correctly.  A  stop  motion  cam  A  is  set- 
screwed  on  the  pick  cam  shaft  in  the  loom.  This  cam  is  made  in  different 
shapes,  an  eccentric  cam  often  being  used.  The  elbow  lever  B,  is  of  two 
parts,  one  extending  over  tiie  cam  and  the  other  end  extending  upwards 


38 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


under  the  filling  fork.  C  is  the  filling  fork,  D  the  grate  which  is  in  line 
with  the  reed  and  back  of  box.  At  right  hand  side  of  illustration  a  fork 
and  fork  slide  is  shown. 

When  the  loom  is  running,  the  filling  is  carried  by  the  shuttle  directly 
in  front  of  the  grate  and  between  the  grate  and  the  fork.  As  the  lay 
conies  forward,  the  filling  will  raise  the  fork  out  of  the  way  of  the  elbow 
lever  and  loom  will  continue  to  run.  When  filling  is  broken  the  fork 
passes  through  the  grate,  and  the  elbow  lever,  in  moving  outwards  comes 
in  contact  with  the  catch  on  end  of  fork.  This  forces  back  the  filling 
fork  slide  and  at  the  same  time  forces  back  the  shipper  handle  and  looni 
is  stopped.  : 

Setting  the  Fork     \_/ 

In  setting  the  fork,  care  must  be  taken  that  the  prongs  of  the  fork 
pass  clear  into  or  through  the  grate  and  must  not  come  in  contact  at  all 
with  the  grate  but  must  work  clear  so  that  when  filling  breaks,  the  catch 
on  the  fork  will  remain  over  the  elbow  lever.  Excessive  movement  of 
the  fork  should  be  avoided  and  the  fork  should  be  set  so  as  not  to  pass 
too  far  through  the  grate,  as  this  not  only  gives  excessive  movement  but 
causes  strain  on  the  filling.  The  prongs  of  the  fork  should  not  be  too 
long,  or  when  fork  is  raised  the  bottom  of  the  prongs  will  come  in  contact 
with  the  lay  sole  and  this  often  causes  loom  to  stop. 

Shape  of  Fork  \y 

The  prongs  of  the  fork  can  be  made  any  desired  shape.  These  shapes 
are  given  in  Fig.  21  at  E,  F  and  G.  The  shape  given  at  E  and  F  are  two 
of  the  best  that  can  be  used.  E  has  the  straight  prong,  F  the  slightly 
concave  prong.  The  filling  is  subjected  to  the  smallest  possible  amount 
of  strain  and  it  is  not  necessary  to  have  them  pass  very  far  through  the 


r8~io 


\<^' 


o_\rz^ 


^^=y, 


H 


Figure  22 

grate  in  order  to  raise  the  catch  on  end  of  fork  the  required  distance 
out  of  the  way  of  the  elbow  lever.  The  shape  at  G  is  not  very  desirable 
and  is  not  as  easily  regulated  as  the  other  shapes.  The  filling  is  more 
likely  to  slip  on  the  fork  and  more  pressure  is  required  to  raise  the 
catch  on  the  end  of  fork  the  required  distance.  In  all  cases  the  prongs 
of  the  fork  should  bo  of  sullicient  length  to  reach  below  the  level  of  race 
plate  and  into  groove  (hat  is  cut  into  the  lav  sole  at  the  required  point. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  ^/  ,  39 


Timing  of  Stop  Motion  L^  -^^ 


Have  shuttle  in  box  at  stop  motion  side  with  crank  in  front  center 
or  just  a  trifle  past  front  cenfer.  Push  fork  slide  as  far  forwai-d  as  it 
will  go.  At  this  point,  the  stop  motion  cam  should  be  set  to  raise  the 
elbow  lever  so  that  the  end  will  be  just  passing  under  the  catch  on  fork. 

Thin  Place  Preventer 

On  almosi  all  cotton  looms  there  is  a  thin  place  preventer.  These  are 
constructed  diU'erently  but  the  object  is  the  same  on  all,  namely,  Jo  raise 
the  catch  on J;ik('-up  kimis  when  filling  breaks  which  prevents  the^geuTS" 
from  drawmg~(i()\vri  (he  clodi  tor  those  picks  where  no  filling  is  inserted. 
X)n  looms  with  tight  and  loose  pulleys  the  thin  place  preventor  is  of  much 
value  as  the  lay  usually  turns  over  for  two,  three  or  four  picks  before 
coming  to  a  stop.  On  fhese  i)icks  the  ratchet  gear  on  take-up  motion  is 
kept  from  being  turned  and  the  cloth  is  not  pulled  down.  The  loom  can 
generally  be  started  up  without  turning  back  the  take-up  gears  if  the 
preventor  motion  is  working  correctly.  Often,  the  passing  of  the  hand 
across  the  clotii  h(>fore  starting  up  the  loom  is  sufiicient  to  prevent  a 
thin  place.  The  motion  is  operated  in  all  cases  from  the  filling  fork  slid« 
so  that  as  this  slide  is  pulled  back  when  filling  is  broken,  the  motion 
operates. 

Protector  Motion    \>^ 

There  are  two  kinds  of  protector  motions  on  looms,  nan^aly,  center 
protector  and  side  protector.  The  purpose  of  the  protector  motion  is  to 
prevent  smashes.  If  the  shuttle  sl>ould  not  get  into  the  shuttle  box  the 
loom  will  bang  off  and  if  shuttle  is  in  the  shed  a  smash  will  be  prevented. 

Fig.  22  illustrates  a  center  i)rotector.  The  cenfer  protector  has  only 
one  dagger  which  is  in  the  center  of  protector  rod.  The  binder  in  shuttle 
box  is  always  on  the  front  of  box.  In  illustration,  A  represents  shuttle 
boxes;  B,  the  binders;  C,  protector  fingers;  D,  protector  rod;  E,  dagger; 
F,  spiral  spring  on  protector  rod;  G,  check  finger;  H,  the  frog  or  receiver. 
The  frog  is  held  under  breast  beam,  one  end  being  behind  the  shipper 
handle. 

The  spring  on  protector  rod  is  to  keep  the  protector  fingers  in  con- 
tact with  the  binders.  The  spring  should  not  be  too  light,  only  sufiicient 
tension  being  required  to  keep  the  protector  fingers  in  position.  The 
spring,  however,  is  sometimes  used  as  a  means  of  checking  the  shuttle 
but  it  is  not  advisable  to  do  this.  When  the  shuttle  is  in  the  box,  the 
binder  is  forced  out  and  in  turn  forces  out  the  protector  finger  and  the 
dagger  on  protc^ctor  rod  pass(!s  under  the  frog  or  receiver.  When  shuttle 
is  not  in  the  box,  the  dagger  strikes  the  frog  and  knocks  off  the  shipper 
handle,  stopping  the  loom. 

The  small  sketch  on  i-ight  hand  side  shows  the  check  finger  in  con- 
tact with  the  bottom  of  lay  sole.  This  check  finger  is  only  used  on  front 
binders  and  which  are  generally  gr'iidual  tapered.  The  setting  of  this 
finger  is  to  have  the  shuttle  almost  full  into  the  box  with  the  binder  and 
protector  finger  pushed  out  almost  as  far  as  they  will  go  and  at  that 
I)oint  the  end  of  tiiiger  should  be  set  against  the  bottom  of  lay  sole.  This 
will  check  and  hold  the  shuttle  in  the  box.  The  check  finger  must  not 
be  set  to  hold  the  shuttle  too  tight  in  the  box  but  just  enough  to  keep  the 
shuttle  in  place  and  also  to  prevent  rebounding  of  shuttle  in  box.  If  the 
finger  is  set  to  hold  the  shuttle  too  tight,  more  power  will  be  required  to 
drive  the  shuttle;  the  sliuttle  will  also  wear  out  sooner.  By  the  use  of 
the  check  finger,  the  picker  stick  can  be  set  to  the  back  of  box  after 
picking. 


40 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


Fig.  23  illustratos  the  side  protector.  A  side  protector  is  always 
operated  from  a  back  binder.  The  finger  shows  the  protector  motion  on 
shipper  handle  side  and  the  connection  of  frog  with  brake.  The  frog  A 
has  th(_'  kndck-oll"  finger  B  f.istenrd  to  it  and  which  is  directly  behind  the 
shipper  handle  C.  D  is  the  dagger  which  is  fastened  to  the  protector 
rod;  E  the  piotector  finger  fastened  to  protector  rod.  The  protector 
rod  is  suspended  in  small  bearings  under  the  lay  sole.  When  the  dagger 
comes  in  contact  with  the  steel  receiver  F  in  the  frog,  the  shipper  handle 
is  knocked  out  of  position,  the  belt  is  pushed  on  the  loose  pulley,  and 
the  brake  G  is  pulled  in  contact  with  the  wheel  on  tight  pulley  H,  thus 
stopping  the  loom. 

With  this  protector  motion,  two  frogs  are  generally  used.  The  one 
operating  on  shipper  handle  side  is  an  active  frog,  the  one  on  opposite 
side  of  loom  is  an  inactive  frog.  These  two  frogs  are  exactly  the  same 
but  the  inactive  frog  merely  receives  part  of  the  strain  when  loom  bangs 
off.    The  daggers  are  set  so  that  the  one  on  shipper  handle  side  will  come 


.^^'' 


/'"^ 


A^j 


Figure  23 

in  contact  with  the  fiog  before  the  dagger  on  the  opposite  side.  If  these 
conditions  should  be  reversed,  that  is,  if  the  dagger  on  inactive  frog 
should  be  in  contact  with  frog  before  the  active  dagger,  a  smash  will 
result,  sooner  or  later. 

Setting  Protector  Fingers 

The  protector  fingers  which  are  fastened  to  the  protector  rod  must 
be  set  so  that  when  shuttle  is  in  the  box  the  dagger  will  clear  the  fr'og. 
Also,  when  shuttle  is  not:  in  the  box,  the  fingers  should  be  set  so  that  the 
dagger  will  strike  squarely  in  the  frog.  If  the  dagger  strikes  too  high, 
the  binder  has  to  be  set  closer  in  the  box  so  as  to  have  the  dagger  move 
a  greater  distance,  thus  requiring  more  power  as  well  as  putting  increased 
pressure  on  the  shuttle. 

The  frog  should  be  placed  in  the  position  it  will  be  when  loom  is 
running.     The  dagger  should  be  full  into  the  groove  in  frog.     At  this 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


41 


position,  the  protector  fingers  should  be  set  full  against  the  binders.  In 
setting,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  have  any  lost  motion  between  finger 
and  binder,  also  that  the  dagger  strikes  full  into  the  frog. 

CHAPTER  XI 

Cover  or  Face  on  Cloth 

The  subject  of  cover  or  lace  on  cloth  is  one  that  should  have  full 
attention  given  to  it.  Judging  from  the  way  much  of  the  plain  cloth  is 
woven,  it  would  appear  as  though  face  on  goods  is  of  very  little  value. 
Cover  or  face  is  of  value  and  fabrics  possessing  this  feature,  which  costs 
practically  nothing  to  i)ut  on,  is  very  often  the  deciding  factor  in  many 
sales.  Not  only  is  this  feature  the  deciding  factor  in  making  the  sale, 
but  a  better  price  is  often  paid  for  the  goods. 

There  are  three  requisites  for  putting  face  on  cloth.  First,  setting  of 
whip  roll.  Second,  soft  twisted  filling.  Third,  timing  of  shedding  cams. 
First.  The  setting  of  whip  roll  is  one  of  the  first  details  which  must  be 
attended  to.  It  is  surprising  how  often  this  little  thing  is  neglected. 
What  ought  to  be  done  in  every  mill  on  the  same  class  of  goods,  whether 
goods  have  to  be  covered  or  not,  is  to  have  one  position  of  the  whip  roll. 


- 

( 

^  bW 

Fig.  24 


Fi(j.  25 


When  the  correct  position  has  been  found  for  either  reedy  or  covered 
cloth,  the  whip  roll  on  all  looms  should  be  set  the  same  and  the  result 
will  be  uniform  in  every  piece  produced.  > 

Setting  for  Reedy  Cloth  or  Without  Cover 

Fig.  24  illustrates  the  setting  of  whip  roll  and  harness  to  produce 
cloth  in  loom  without  any  fice  or  cover  on  it.  With  the  harness  level, 
that  is,  crossing  each  other,  the  warp  yarn  forms  a  sti-aight  line  from  the 
whip  i-oll  A  to  the  broast  beam  li.  FIk-  -•')  iiiuslratcs  the  harness  shafts 
open,  the  dotted  line  representing  the  warp  line  as  in  Fig.  2i. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  there  is  an  even  tension  on  the  yarn  both  at 
the  top  and  bottom.  As  the  ends  in  a  plain  cloth  are  drawn  through  the 
reed  two  in  a  dent,  every  two  ends  will  be  worked  together  as  a  unit,  and 
the  reed  wire  separating  every  two  ends  and  beating  the  filling  into  the 
cloth  will  keep  each  two  ends  together  and  leave  an  empty  space  between. 
Each  tW'O  ends  being  opened  and  held  together  at  even  tension  must  of 
necessity  run  together.  The  warp  and  filling  is  divided  evenly  on  the 
face  and  back  of  cloth. 


42 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


Setting  for  Covered  Cloth 

Fig.  20  illustrafcs  llio  position  of  wliip  roll  fo  put  face  or  covor  on 
cloth.  It  will  be  noticed  that  the  only  change  that  has  been  made  be- 
tween Fig.  24  and  Fig.  26  is  that  the  whip  roll  A  is  set  higher  in  Fig.  26 
than  in  Fig.  24.  This,  however,  is  one  of  the  vital  point.s  in  putting  face 
on  goods.  Fig.  27  illustrr.tes  the  harness  shafts  open  with  this  setting, 
the  dotted  line  illustrating  tlie  waip  iine  as  in  Fig.  25.  The  harness  shafts 
have  been  raised  and  lowered  the  same  distance  as  in  Fig.  25.  but  it  will 
be  noticed  in  this  Fig.  that  the  bottom  of  the  warp  is  much  tighter  than 
the  top  half.  This  is  because  the  line  that  is  formed  by  the  warp  drawn 
through  the  raised  harness  shaft  is  not  as  high  above  the  warp  line  as 
the  warp  drawn  thrcTugh  the  lowered  harness  is  below  the  warp  line.  In 
other  words,  when  a  harness  shaft  is  raised,  the  yarn  that  is  drawn 
through  that  shaft  does  not  have  the  same  tension  on  it  that  the  yarn 
does  that  passes  through  the  harness  shaft  that  is  lowered.  The  effect 
of  this  on  the  yarn  and  cloth  is  as  follows:     When  the  harness  shafts 


IT 


IM 


T 

( 

2) 

'^  B^ 

Fig.  26 


Fig. 


are  open  and  the  reed  is  beating  the  filling  into  the  cloth,  the  ends  in 
the  top  part  of  the  shed  will  be  looser  than  the  ends  in  the  bottom  part, 
consequently  the  loose  ends  will  spread  out  and  in  between  the  tight  ends 
and  the  marks  of  the  reed  will  not  be  seen. 

Also,  remembering  that  the  bottom  half  of  the  warp  is  tighter  than 
the  upper  half,  the  filling  will  be  forced  on  the  face  of  the  cloth  and  it  is 
the  filling  that  makes  the  "face"  on  cloth.  In  some  cases,  the  cloth  is 
raised  at  the  breast  beam  by  placing  a  strip  of  wood  either  on  top  of 
breast  beam  or  in  front  and  allowing  the  end  of  wood  to  extend  over  the 
top  of  breast  beam.  When  this  is  done,  the  warj)  line  will  be  higher 
both  at  the  breast  beam  and  whip  roll  than  at  the  harness  shafts  when 
shafts  are  level.  Care  must  be  taken  that  the  cloth  is  not  raised  too  high 
or  the  ends  of  the  upper  half  of  the  shed  will  be  too  loose.  This  will 
also  occur  if  the  whij)  roll  is  too  high. 

Second.  To  obtain  the  best  face  or  cover,  the  filling  should  be  soft 
twisted.  It  will  readily  be  seen  that  the  softer  and  more  loosely  twisted 
filling  that  can  be  used,  the  better  will  be  the  face  or  cover  since  the 
filling  is  forced  on  the  face  of  cloth  and  it  is  the  filling  that  gives  the 
cover. 

Third.  The  timing  of  shedding  cams  has  a  decided  infiuence  on  the 
face  of  cloth.  There  are  three  different  timings  of  cams,  namely,  late, 
medium,  early.  Each  setting  is  suitable  for  special  kinds  of  cloth,  but 
when  considering  the  regular  i)lain  sheeting  and  prints,  the  medium  or 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  43 

early  timing  should  be  used.  Thejnedium  timing  of  motion^  is  to  have 
crank  between  bottom  and  f roTrfTcenter  with  the  Tiarness  shafts  level. 
EalTy  timing  of  motion  is  to  have  crank  on  bottom  center  with  the 
harness  shafts  level. 

Willi  the  eariy  fiininp.  th(^  shuttle  will  have  jiassod  (Iifougli  the  shed 
and  laid  in  the  pick  of  filling,  the  harness  shafts  will  have  crossed  the 
picks  and  he  almost  full  open  when  the  reed  is  beating  the  tilling  into 
the  cloth.  With  the  wiiip  roll  sot  at  Fig.  27  the  filling  will  he  fofccd  on 
the  face  of  cloth  because  the  bottom  half  of  the  warp  is  tighter  than  the. 
upper  half  and  also  because  the  ends,  being  opened,  will  allow  the  tilling 
to  be  beaten  into  the  cloth  easier. 

Many  fixers  time  the  position  of  the  shedding  cams  by  the  distance 
of  reed  from  fell  of  cloth  with  the  harness  shafts  level.  A  medium  timing 
qf_motion  will  be  when  reed  is  about  one  inch  from  fell  of  cloth  with 
Jianiess  shafts  level;  an  early  timing  of  motion  will  be  when  reed  is 
abouTtwo  inches  from  fell  of  cloth. 

Cost  of  Adding  "Face"  or  Cover  to  Cloth 

It  has  been  previously  stated  that  it  costs  practically  nothing  to  add 
face  to  cloth  as  the  following  shows: 

First.  It  costs  nothing  to  raise  the  whip  roll,  for  the  fixer  can  do 
this  in  his  regular  work.  When  the  correct  position  has  been  ascertained, 
a  measuring  stick  can  be  made  and  all  the  whip  rolls  set  to  this  standard. 
As  the  raising  of  whip  roll  puts  additional  strain  on  the  bottom  part  of 
the  shed,  the  yarn  will  have  to  be  carefully  sized  so  as  to  retain  all  its 
strength,  but  this  can  be  done  by  a  judicious  mixing  of  sizing  ingredients. 
The  whip  roll  must  not  be  set  too  high  or  the  yarn  at  the  bottom  part  of 
the  shed  will  have  too  much  tension  on  it  and  the  ends  will  be  liable  to 
break.  Also,  the  yarn  at  the  top  part  of  the  shed  will  be  too  loose  and 
this  will  have  a  tendency  to  throw  out  the  shuttle. 

Care  is  therefore  required  in  getting  the  correct  position  for  the 
whip  roll.  Sufficient  face  or  cover  can  generally  be  put  on  cloth  by 
adjusting  the  whip  roll,  though  occasionally  a  strip  of  wood  has  to  be 
added  to  the  breast  beam.  This  will  be  added  expense  but  the  results 
obtained  will  more  than  comiiensate  for  this. 

Second.  The  making  of  soft  twisted  filling  will  probably  cost  a  little 
more  because  of  the  extra  breaking  of  the  ends  on  the  spinning  frame. 
These  breakages  should  not  be  too  many  unless  the  filling  is  extra  soft 
twisted,  in  which  case  there  will  be  more  ends  down  on  the  spinning 
fr'anie  and  more  stoppages  on  the  loom  than  there  will  be  when  the 
regular  tilling  is  used. 

Th(^  regular  filling  twist  is  usually  correct  and  an  excellent  face  or 
cover  can  Ix'  obtained  when  other  things  are  in  proportion. 

Third.  It  certainly  does  not  cost  anything  to  set  the  shedding  cams 
early  in  preference  to  setting  them  late. 

Summary 

To  sum  up  in  a  concise  form  the  following  i)oinfs  are  given  which, 
if  followed,  will  fiiv(>  good  r?sults. 

For  Cloth  Without  Face  or  Cover 

Have  harness  shafts  level.  Crank  between  bottom  and  front  center. 
Set  whip  roll  so  that  "warp  line"  will  be  in  a  straight  line  from  whip  roll 
to  breast  beam. 

For  Cloth  With  Face  or  Cover 

Have  harness  shaft  level.  Crank  on  bottom  center.  Set  whip  roll  so 
that  "warp  line"  will  be  above  a  straight  line  from  whip  roll  to  breast 
beam,  the  line  being  lower  at  the  harness  shafts.  In  other  words,  raise 
the  whip  roll.  In  some  special  cases  put  a  strip  of  wood  on  the  breast 
beam. 


^ 


44 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


CHAPTER  XII 
Temples 

Temples  are  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  fell  of  cloth  as  wide  as 
the  yarn  in  the  reed.  If  temples  were  not  used,  the  selvages  would  not 
weave.  Fig.  28  illustrates  a  left  hand  temple  with  plate.  This  is  a  single 
roll  temple,  some  temples  having  double  rolls.  Temples  are  made  for  all 
kinds  of  work,  both  tine  and  coarse  and  in  different  widths  to  suit  the 
cloth  being  made. 

The  rolls  should  always  work  freely,  if  they  do  not,  the  pins  in  the 
roll  will  make  small  holes"  in  the  cloth  if  tine  cloth  is  being  made.  The 
pins  will  also  pluck  the  filling  and  make  a  poor  looking  cloth.  The  rolls 
should  be  kept  clean  as  ends  frequently  wrap  around  them.  This  keeps 
the  pins  from  holding  the  cloth  out  firmly  and  allowing  it  to  slip.  Waste 
also  accumulates  at  the  ends  of  the  roll  and  this  keeps  the  roll  from 
turning.  It  is  sometimes  necessary  to  take  nut  the  rolls  to  clean  and  oil 
and  in  replacing  same,  care  is  necessary. 

On  some  fine  goods,  the  finest  pins  used  in  rolls  will  sometimes  make 
temple  marks.    To  remedy  this,  the  rolls  should  be  covered  with  fine 


Figure  28 

tissue  paper  until  only  the  points  of  pins  show  through  the  paper  and 
this  is  enough  to  hold  the  cloth  the  full  width-  Sometimes  filling  is 
wound  round  the  roll  but  this  is  not  as  good  as  tissue  paper.  Rough 
and  bent  pins  cause  temple  marks,  plucking  of  filling  in  cloth  as  it  passes 
through  the  temple,  and  holes  are  often  made  in  cloth  by  these  defective 
pins. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


45 


Setting  the  Temple 

The  plate  of  temple  should  be  fixed  securely  to  the  breast  beam. 
The  trough  of  the  temple  should  be  just  high  enough  for  the  lay  sole  to 
pass  undei'.  The  selvage  of  cloth  should  bo  full  into  the  teini)l('.  When 
the  reed  is  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  from  the  fell  of  cloth  the  lay 
sole  should  be  in  contact  with  the  heel  plate  on  temple. 

Fig.  29  illustnites  the  lav  almost  in  contact  with  the  liool  plate  of 
temple  A.  With  the  heel  plate  set  so  as  to  have  the  lay  sole  come  in 
contact  at  this  point,  a  slight  forward  movement  is  given  to  the  temple. 
This  releases  the  selvage  at  this  point  and  the  strain  on  them  is  slightly 
reduced.    There  should  not  be  too  much  movement  of  the  temple. 

Lease  Rods 

These  rods  are  for  the  purpose  of  separating  the  yarn  and  obtaining, 
as  the  name  indicates,  a  "lease."  This  use  of  lease  rods  enables  the 
weaver  to  readily  find  the  place  if  an  end  should  bo  broken;  the  ends  can 


Figure  29 

also  be  kept  straight,  which  is  of  great  service,  especially  when  colored 
yarns  are  used.  A  clearer  "shed"  is  obtained  by  the  use  of  them  and 
they  also  keep  the  ends  from  becoming  tangled.  A  soft  wood,  with  sur- 
face insufficiently  protected,  should  not  be  used  as  the  continued  drawing 
of  the  ends  over  the  rods  soon  cuts  little  ridges  or  furrows  in  them.  This 
is  a  source  of  constant  trouble  and  expense,  as  the  ends  getting  in  the 
ridges  are  continually  breaking  out,  especially  on  fine  yarns.  Such  rods 
have  then  to  be  sandpapered  frequently  so  as  to  keep  them  smooth. 

To  overcome  this  difficulty,  a  lease  rod  made  from  either  basswood 
or  white  birch,  thoroughly  seasoned  and  kiln-dried,  then  enameled  with 
a  special  enamel  designed  and  made  for  this  purpose,  and  the  enamel 
carbonized  and  thoroughly  baked  on  the  rods  for  successive  coats  under 
high  heat  for  hours,  produces  a  hard,  glazed  surface,  over  which  the  ends 
run  as  smoothly  as  over  glass.    So  made  they  wear  for  many  years. 

Lease  rods  are  of  dillerent  shapes  and  sizes.    The  largest  rod,  which 


46  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

is  a  round  one,  is  always  inserted  in  the  yarn  first,  and  is  the  back  rod. 
The  back  harness  is  raised  and  the  front  harness  lowered  when  the  rod 
is  inserted  in  the  jjarn-  When  the  front  rod,  which  is  oval,  is  inserted, 
the  front  harness  is  raised  and  the  back  liarness  lo'Vvered.  The  reason 
for  inserting  the  rods  in  warp  in  this  ordei'  is  as  follows:  When  the 
back  harness  is  lowered  and  the  front  harness  raised  the  shed  is  formed 
at  a  point  between  the  rods  and  the  fell  of  cloth.  The  added  thickness 
of  the  back  rod  is  sufficient  to  i)ut  I  he  necessary  tension  on  the  yarn  to 
make  a  clear  shed  because  the  ri'oni  harness  is  neai"  the  fell  of  cloth. 
When  the  front  harness  is  lowered  and  the  back  harness  raised,  the  shed 
is  formed  from  the  front  rod  and  the  fell  of  cloth.  The  back  harness  has 
to  travel  a  greater  distance  than  the  front  harness  to  make  the  same  size 
of  shed  for  the  shuttl(>  to  pass  through  because  it  is  farther  away  from 
the  fell  of  the  cloth,  therefore  more  tension  is  required  on  the  ends  drawn 
through  that  harness  so  as  to  make  a  clear  shed.  This  additional  tension 
is^obtained  by  having  the  ends  under  the  front  lease  rod  which  is  suffi- 
cient to  equalize  the  distance  between  the  harness  and  fell  of  cloth.  A 
srriall  oval  rod  is  therefore  necessary  for  front  rod  as  the  larger  the  rod 
the  farther  the  varn  has  to  bend. 


^ 


Shuttles 


On  single  box  work  the  usual  custom  is  to  have  two  shuttles  to  one 
loom  so  that  when  one  is  at  work  the  other  is  threaded  up  ready  for  use. 
When  more  than  one  shuttle  is  used  on  the  same  loom  they  should  all 
be  the  same  size,  shape  and  weight.  The  shuttle  box  is  set  for  one  size 
of  shuttle  and  there  should  not  be  any  variation  in  size  otherwise  there 
will  be  more  or  less  tr(tuble  with  loom  banging.  The  weight  of  shuttles 
should  be  as  near  the  same  as  it  is  possible  to  get  them.  The  shape  of 
shuttle  should  be  the  same  on  all  shuttles  used.  With  a  grarUial  tapered 
binder,  the  best  shape  of  shuttle  to  use  is  one  that  is  tapered  Jo  the 
shuttle  tip,  with  the  tip  in  center  of  shuttle.  A  shoulder  shuttle  should 
only  be  used  with  a  shoulder  or  blunt  binder  and  the  shoulder  on  shuttle 
should  not  be  too  deep. 

More  and  better  production  can  be  obtained  from  the  hioin  by  the  use 
of  a  correctly  designed  shuttle.  The  shuttles  should  be  made  of  the  best 
material  and  perfectly  constructed.  With  poor  material  the  shuttles  soon 
become  ridgy  on  the  back,  splinter  and  soon  wear  out.  The  result  is  a 
loss  in  production  caused  by  ends  breaking  out.  smashes,  etc. 

Care  of  shuttles  is  an  important  part  of  weaving,  especially  on  fine 
goods.  Shuttles  are,  however,  very  often  neglected  with  the  result  that 
ends  are  continually  breaking  out.  All  rough  places  should  be  made 
smooth  by  being  sandpapered  and  all  sharp  edges  should  be  eliminated- 

Shuttles  should  be  handled  carefully  and  should  not  be  dropped  on 
the  floor.  This  causes  the  tips  to  be  blunted  and  flattened.  It  is  impossi- 
ble to  have  good  weaving  when  the  shuttle  tips  are  flat  or  blunted.  When 
the  tips  are  in  this  condition  any  loose  ends  are  caught  by  the  tip  and 
broken  out.  The  tip  strikes  tlie  loose  ends,  breaking  them  and  carrying 
them  through  the  shed.  The  blunted  tiii  can  readily  be  detected  when 
this  occurs  because  the  broken  ends  are  carried  in  the  direction  this  tip 
is  traveling. 

All  blunt  tips  should  be  sharpened.  They  should  be  perfectly  round 
and  to  a  sharp  point,  for  only  in  this  way  can  the  best  results  be  obtained. 
In  sharpening  care  should  be  taken  so  as  not  to  have  the  shuttle  tip  flat 
as  this  will  cut  out  the  ends. 


CHAPTER  XIII 
Auxiliary  Shaft  for  Twill  (;oods 


^ 


When  a  mill  is  equipped  for  weaving  plain  goods  only,  the  shedding 
cams  are  put  on  the  pick  cam  shaft.    If  it  is  intended  to  also  weave  twill 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


47 


or  sateen  goods 
loom.  This  sha 
according  (o  the 


jrTtaTn 


i^ 

o 

^ 

o 

to 

0/ 

7oT££TM. 


nn 


n  n 


cam  shaft  will  1 
since  auxiliary  s 
namely,  one  i'ev( 
shall." 


on  these  looms  a  small  auxiliary  shaft  is  added  to  the 
ft  is  driven  from  the  pick  cam  shaft  at  varying  speeds 

twill  thai  is  hcing  madi;  on  the  loom.    If  a  tlwee  harness 

diill  is  heiiig  maile  the  aux- 
iliaiy  shaft  has  to  he  driven 
so  that  one  revolution  of 
the  shaft  will  be  equal  to 
three  picks,  or  if  a  four- 
harness  drill  is  b(Mng  made, 
one  revolution  will  be  equal 
to  four  picks.  Fig.  30  shows 
the  connection  between  the 
pick  cam  shaft  and  the  aux- 
iliary shaft.  A,  represents 
crank  shaft.  B,  represents 
pick  cam  shaft.  Different 
sizes  (if  gears  are  put  on 
the  shaft  as  will  be  seen 
and  the  meshing  of  either 
of  these  gears  will  drive  the 
auxiliary  shaft  at  a  differ- 
ent speed,  according  to  the 
number  of  cams  being  used. 
A  fixed  gear  is  usually  set 
on  the  auxiliary  shaft. 
When  plain  g^ods  have  to 
be  made  the  gear  on  pick 
the  gear  on  auxiliary  shaft, 
tlu^  pick  cam  shaft. 


u 


rnr 


Ct^fAS. 


tLO  Tccih 


Figure  30 


ia\e  to  he  the  same  size  as 

haft  has  to  travel  the  same  speed  as 

•kit ion  of  tlie  auxiliary  shaft  to  two  revolutions  of  crank 


Example  to  Find  Gear  Required 


A  loom  has  to  be  changed  over  from  plain  cloth  to  four-harness  twill. 
Gears  on  loom  as  follows:  On  end  of  crank  shaft  35  teeth;  on  end  of  pick 
cam  shaft  70  teeth;  on  auxiliaiy  sliaft  60  teeth-  What  size  gear  required 
to  drive  auxiliary  shaft?  Rule:  Multiply  driven  gears  together  for  a 
dividend.  Multiply  driver  gear  by  twill  required  for  a  divisor.  Divide 
one  bv  the  other  and  the  answer  will  be  gear  required. 
70x60 

■ =30  tooth  gear  required. 

35x4 
By  substituting  in  rule  the  gear  on  pick  cam  shaft  that  is  meshed  in 
gear  on  auxiliaiy  shaft,  the  number  of  picks  in  one  revolution  of  auxiliary 
shaft  will  be  found. 

Example:  Gear  on  end  of  crank  shaft  35  teeth;  on  end  of  pick  cam 
shaft  70  teeth;  on  pick  cam  shaft  driving  auxiliary  shaft  40  teeth;  on 
auxiliary  shaft  60  teeth.  How  manv  picks  in  one  revolution  of  auxiliary 
shaft? 

70x60 

-=3  picks,  or  cams  for  thrre  harness  drill. 


35x40 


Changes  Required 


When  changing  over  from  plain  goods  to  twills  or  sateens  several 
changes  have  to  be  made.  These  are  as  follows:  New  harness  rolls; 
additional  treadh^s;  additional  .jack  sticks  and  straps;  gear  to  di'ive  auxil- 
iary shaft.  If  a  vibrating  whip  roll  had  been  used  for  i)lain  goods,  it 
would  be  advisable  to  reduce  the  vibration  for  the  following  reason:  The 
vibrating  whip  roll  is  used  to  relieve  flie  strain  011  the  yarn  when  the 
harness  are  open,  for  at  this  point  Hie'^greatest  strain  is  on  the  yarn. 


Go 


v_<St^^'' 


x><3   s^ 


48 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


This  vibrating  whip  roll  is  therefore  more  desirable  for  plain  goods  than 
for  twills  or  sateens  because  one-half  the  yarn  in  plain  cloth  is  raised 
and  the  other  half  lowered  at  the  same  time.  In  twills  and  sateens  some 
harness  are  changing  while  others  are  stationary  so  that  the  vibrating 
whip  roll  is  not  of  as  great  value  as  on  plain  cloth. 

Timing  of  Twill  or  Sateen  Cams 

When  two  harness  shafts  are  being  changed,  that  is,  one  raised  and 
one  lowered,  the  crank  shaft  should  be  just  past  bottom  center  when  they 
are  level  or  just  passing  each  other.  The  timing  of  this  motion  can  often 
very  easily  he  changed  as  an  intermediate  or  carrier  gear  is  used  to 
transmit  mot  ion  from  the  gear  on  pick  cam  shaft  to  gear  on  auxiliary 
shaft.  By  moving  this  carrier  gear  out  of  position,  the  cams  can  be  set 
at  any  desired  point  in  relation  to  crank  shaft. 


Roll  and  Spring  Top 

Twills  and  sateens  are  usually  made  on  either  roll  or  spring  top. 
Fig.  .31  illustrates  roll  top  for  three  and  four  harness;  also  a  spring  top 
similar  to  that 
which  is  used  on 
the  Draper  loom. 
The  rolls  shown  in 
illustration  are  di- 
rectly over  the  har- 
ness though  on 
many  looms  these 
rolls  are  on  one 
side  of  the  loom, 
arch.  The  principle 
of  operation  is  the 
same  whether  the 
rolls  are  directly 
above  or  to  one 
side  of  the  loom. 
These  rolls  require 
careful  adjustment 
or  the  straps  will 
lap  under  and  this 
jauses  the  harness 
lo  jump. 

With  the  spring 
top  this  trouble  is 
entirely  avoided 
and  it  is  an  excel- 
lent motion-  If  the 
treadles  are  set  cor- 
rectly to  the  shed- 
ing  cams  and  are  in 
contact  with  the 
Dams  for  the  whole 
of  the  revolution, 
there  is  no  difflcul- 
ty    whatever    with 

this    motion    and  Fiqure  31 

ffood  results  are  ob-  ■ 

tained.  In  all  cases,  whether  rolls  or  spring  tops,  there  must  be  correct 
setting  of  the  harness  and  treadle  balls  otherwise  the  harness  will  not 
receive  the  easv  movement  that  is  necessary  for  good  weaving. 


4M)ury<y^  'X  ty^ 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  49 

CHAPTER  XIV      3  L^W*^ 

LOOM  FIXING  POINTS  ^XtxW\^ 

Under  diflferent  heads  fhe  various  causes  of  loom  being  nuf  of  order 
will  be  given,  together  with  remedies  for  same.  A  loom  fixer's  duty  is 
to  keep  Ihe  looms  undei-  his  chaige  in  good  repair  srt  as  to  prf)duce  the 
maximum  production  of  tiist  quality  goods.  


LOOM  BANGING  OR  SL.\^IMING 

This  is  what  a  loom  fixer  is  called  for  in  a  large  number  of  cases. 
There  are  quite  a  number  of  causes  for  this,  which  will  be  enumerated. 

Late^  Pick      i^ ^ 

This  is  generally  caused  by  lug  straps  slipping.  The  straps  should 
be  closed  in  so  that  the  pick  will  start  on  time.  The  correct  timing  of 
picking  motion  is  to 
have  shuttle  begin  to 
move  when  cLaiit-i;? 
"»"  top^  jci'nler.  Late 
pick  is  s  o  me  times 
caused  by  pick  cam 
slipping.  The  cam  will 
have  to  be  reset  on 
time. 

Weak  Pick^ 

When  the  picking 
(notion  is  on  time  and 
Ihe  shuttle  is  not 
picked  hard  enough  so 
as  to  get  in  shuttle 
box  on  opposite  side 
in  time,  the  pick  has 
to  be  made  stronger. 
This  can  be  done  in 
two  ways.  First,  by 
low^ering  lug  strap  on 
picker  stick.  Second, 
by  lowering  driving 
aim.  or  dog  on  driving 
arm.  Either  of  these 
methods  can  be  used, 
but  care  should  be 
taken  so  as  not  to  have 
the  lug  straps  at  ex- 
tremes. See  Chapter 
Four. 

(]pjU'kod  or  Part  \/ 
Broken  Lug  Strap 

When  the  lug  strap 
is     ci'acked     or     part 
broken,    much    of    the 
force    of    fh(>    blow    is 


Figure  32 


lost  causing  a  weak  picK.    Tins  should  bf  i«M)laC(yl  wi 

Ci'acked  Picker  Stick  ^ 


111  a  iH'w  strap. 


A  weak  pick  is  often  made  with  a  cracked  picker  stick.    It  is  best  to 
replace  such  a  picker  stick  with  a  new  one  as  soon  as  possible-     One 


K 


50  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

cause  of  picker  stick  cracking  is  by  having  the  shuttle  held  too  hard  in 
the  shuttle  box,  so  that  when  beginning  to  pick,  the  picker  stick  is  bent 
and  when  this  occurs,  neither  the  picker  stick  or  shuttle  lasts  long.  The 
shuttle  should  not  be  held  too  tight  in  the  box,  only  sufficient  to  have 
the  dagger  clear  the  frog,  and  also  to  keep  it  from  rebounding.  Fig.  32 
illustrates  by  dotted  lines  how  a  picker  stick  is  bent  when  shuttle  is  held 
too  tight  in  shuttle  box. 

%  Picker  sticks  are  cracked  and  broken  when  the  stick  strikes  too  hard 
against  the  front  end  of  the  box.  A  buffer  should  always  be  used  to 
protect  both  the  picker  and  the  picker  stick.  This  buffer  is  sometimes 
made  of  leather;  also  of  cloth  wound  tightly  in  a  roll  and  put  in  the 
front  end  of  race.  The  picker  striking  the  buffer  instead  of  the  solid  end 
of  the  race  increases  the  life  of  the  picker  stick  and  also  the  picker, 
because  the  hard  blow  on  picker  and  picker  stick  is  reduced.  Picker 
sticks  should  be  made  from  hickory,  cut  straight  with  the  grain.  Poor 
quality  picker  sticks  will  more  easily  bend  as  shown  in  illustration. 

Rebounding  Shuttle     \y 

A  rebounding  shuttle  is  one  that  strikes  hard  against  the  picker  and 
rebounds  back  in  the  box.  Some  looms,  with  the  slightest  rebound,  will 
bang  off,  while  others  will  continue  to  run.  This  depends  on  the  pick 
from  that  side  on  which  shuttle  has  rebounded.  With  a  rebounding 
shuttle,  a  weak  pick  is  made  because  of  the  loss  of  the  initial  movement 
in  picking,  that  is,  before  the  picker  comes  in  contact  with  the  shuttle, 
and  the  shuttle  is  not  driven  hard  enough  to  get  full  into  the  opposite 
box  and  loom  bangs. 

There  are  four  causes  of  rebounding  shuttle:  First,  pick  too  strong. 
Second,  insufficient  check.  Third,  loose  box.  Fourth,  protector  finger 
slipped.  First,  if  pick  is  too  strong,  shuttle  will  rebound  and  the  pick 
must  be  reduced  by  raising  lug  strap  on  picker  stick  or  by  raising  the 
driving  arm.  Second,  when  a  shoulder  swell  is  used  and  there  is  not 
sufficient  check  on  the  shuttle,  it  will  almost  invariably  rebound  unless 
the  shuttle  box  is  very  tight  and  that  should  not  be.  If  the  picker  stick  is 
fixed  so  as  to  remain  about  two  or  three  inches  in  the  shuttle  box  and 
the  pick  is  not  too  strong,  the  shuttle  should  not  rebound-  (See  Chapter 
Five).  With  a  gradual  tapered  shuttle  and  binder  the  check  finger  on 
protector  rod  should  be  set  to  hold  the  shuttle  in  position  when  it  gets 
to  the  back  end  of  the  box.  When  the  shuttle  is  almost  full  into  the  box 
the  check  finger  should  be  in  contact  with  the  lay  sole.  (See  Chapter 
Ten,  Protector  Motion).  Third,  if  the  box  is  loose  the  only  remedy  is  to 
tighten  up  the  box.  Fourth,  when  protector  finger  slips  there  is  lost 
motion  between  the  finger  and  binder,  and  this  allows  the  shuttle  to  shoot 
into  the  box  and  rebound.  In  resetting  the  finger  in  correct  position, 
care  will  have  to  be  taken  that  the  dagger  is  full  in  the  frog  and  frog  in 
position  it  will  be  when  loom  is  running,  so  that  the  dagger  will  clear 
the  frog  with  shuttle  in  box  and  will  strike  full  in  frog  when  shuttle  is 
not  in  box. 

Loose  Picker  Stick      \/ 

If  the  picker  stick  and  parallel  are  not  fastened  securely  together  a 
weak  pick  is  made  owing  to  lost  motion.  The  remedy  is  to  tighten  up 
the  bolt  that  holds  the  two  together. 

Belt  Slipping 

A  slipping  belt  often  causes  loom  to  bang;.  The  belt  should  be  thor- 
oughly cleaned  and  a  good  belt  dressing  applied. 

Lost  Motion  in  Cone  ^ 

This  is  caused  by  neglecting  to  oil  the  cone  with  the  result  that  the 
cone  wears  and  becomes  loose  on  its  stud  and  a  weak  pick  results.  The 
only  remedy  is  to  replace  with  a  new  cone. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  51 

Neglecting  to  oil  will  also  cause  a  flat  place  to  be  made  on  the  out- 
side of  cone  because  the  pick  point  strikes  the  same  place  on  each  pick. 
This  occasionally  causes  a  weak  pick  and  loom  bangs  off. 

Change  of  Atmosphere        i ^ 

If  there  has  been  a  sudden  change  from  dry  to  damp  weather  the 
boxes  will  become  sticky  and  damp.  Shuttle  will  not  fit  correctly  in  the 
box  and  loom  will  bang  off.  To  remedy,  take  a  piece  of  waste  and  wipe 
shuttles  and  boxes  thoroughly  dry.  If  this  does  not  immediately  remedy, 
take  a  piece  of  fine  sand-paper  and  rub  the  shuttle.  It  is  advisable  to 
rub  both  shuttles  so  as  to  keep  thom  the  same  width.  The  very  smallest 
drop  of  oil  put  on  the  binder  with  the  finger  after  cleaning  with  waste 
will  often  remedy. 

Lug  Strap  Too  Far  From  Picker  Stick        ^"^^ 

Sometimes  the  lug  strap  is  too  far  from  back  of  picker  stick,  allow- 
ing too  much  play.  The  pick  may  begin  on  time,  but  the  cone  will  have 
traveled  too  far  up  the  pick  point  and  in  this  way  a  soft  pick  is  made. 
The  remedy  is  to  tighten  up  the  lug  straps  so  as  to  reduce  the  space 
between  picker  stick  and  strap,  then  set  picking  catn  back  and  in  this 
way  the  full  pick  point  will  be  used  for  the  pick. 

Shedding  Cams  Too  Early       i^ 

If  shedding  cams  are  set  too  early,  (he  shod  will  be  closing  before 
the  shuttle  gets  full  across  the  lay  with  the  result  that  the  shed  is  often 
closed  on  the  back  end  of  shuttle  and  shuttle  is  tilted  as  it  enters  the  box. 
The  result  is  that  the  shuttle  does  not  get  full  into  the  box  and  loom 
bangs  off.  This  also  causes  the  shuttle  to  be  chipped,  and  the  tip  is  also 
often  blunted. 

Shedding  Cams  Too  Late 

If  shedding  cams  are  set  too  late,  the  shuttle  will  enter  the  shed 
before  it  is  full  open  and  in  this  way  will  be  retarded  in  its  movement 
and  loom  will  bang  off  occasionally.  ^ 

Worn  Pick  Point 

By  continued  use  the  pick  point  will  wear  off  and  the  force  of  the 
blow  reduced.  Frequently  when  this  occurs  extra  nick  is  added  by  lower- 
ing the  lug  strap,  but  wtien  the  pick  point  is  badly  worn  it  is  advisable 
to  replace  with  a  new  one.  Neglecting  to  oil  the  pj.ck  cams  and  cone 
causes  the  pick  point  to  wear  off  sooner. 


LOOM  STOPPING 

The  esspntini  difTorpnca  hp.fwppn  loom  ^nnging  nnrl  lnnn-|  sfopping  is 
that  In  loom  banging  the  loom  sTons  with  a  jar  while  in  loom  stopping 
the  shipper  handle  slins  onf  nf  the  shipppr  liandle  stand  and  Toolfi  sT(^ 
easily,  in  the  majority  of  cases  when  the  loom  stops,  the  trouhle  "can 
generally  be  located  with  the  filling  fork  and  filling  fork  motion  though 
there  are  other  causes  of  loom  stopping.  Some  of  the  causes  nf-lnopi 
janging  will  also  cause  loom  to  stop.  _ 

In  setting  the  filling  fork  have  shuttle  in  shuttle  box  on  filling  fork 
side  of  loom.  Push  filling  fork  slide  as  far  forward  as  it  will  go  and 
have  crank  on  front  center.  The  prongs  of  filling  fork  should  (hen  be 
in  the  grate.  Care  must  be  taken  that  the  prongs  of  the  fork  pass  clear 
into  the  grate.  If  the  prongs  touch  the  grate  the  loom  will,  in  some 
cases,  stop  with  filling  not  broken,  and  in  others  will  run  when  filling  is 
broken.  The  bottom  of  the  prongs  of  fork  should  not  touch  the  lav  sole 
when  fork  is  raised,  as  this  will  cause  loom  to  stop. 


52  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

When  the  fork  has  been  correctly  set,  and  the  crank  on  front  center, 
the  stop  motion  cam  should  be  set  so  that  the  elbow  lever  will  be  just 
passing  under  the  catch  on  fork-  Sometimes  a  little  later  setting  is 
preferable,  that  is,  have  crank  just  past  front  center  with  elbow  lever 
just  passing  under  catch  on  fork. 

If  loom   stops  and  fork   is   set  correctly   then  something  else    is   the 
cause.    Other  causes  of  loom  stopping  are  as  follows: 

Rebounding  Shuttle       \^ 

When  a  shuttle  rebounds  in  the  box  the  filling  becomes  loose.  Instead 
of  the  fork  being  raised,  the  loose  filling  is  forced  through  the  grate  and 
the  catch  on  fork  is  caught  by  the  elbow  lever  and  loom  is  stopped. 


Filling  Catching  on  Fork 


\^ 


A  rebounding  shuttle  will  also  cause  filling  to  catch  on  fork  because 
the  filling  is  loose.  If  the  prongs  of  the  fork  stand  out  too  far  or  are  too 
short  the  filling  will  catch  on  them.  This  holds  down  the  catch  on  fork 
so  that  the  elbow  lever  coming  in  contact  with  same  stops  the  loom.  If 
the  filling  catches  on  fork  and  does  not  stop  the  loom  at  once,  the  catch 
on  fork  will  be  raised  up  and  if  filling  should  run  out  or  break,  the  loom 
will  not  stop  until  the  filling  that  is  caught  on  the  fork  breaks.  The 
prongs  of  fork  should  be  either  straight  or  slightly  concave,  for  with  this 
shape,  filling  is  not  as  liable  to  catch. 

Fork  Too  Far  Through  Grate         ^^ 

• 
This  will  cause  the  fork  to  be  lifted  too  high  and  the  result  is  that 
after  dropping,  the  fork  rebounds  and  the  catch  on  fork  is  caught  by  the 
elbow  lever  and  loom  is  stopped.    This  occasionally  causes  the  filling  to 
become  slack  and  catch  on  the  fork. 

Xot  Sufficient  Friction  on  Filling  in  Shuttle     v_/^ 

If  there  is  not  sufficient  friction  on  filling  in  shuttle,  the  filling  will 
be  slack  and  the  fork  will  not  be  raised.  A  piece  of  flannel  or  felt 
inserted  near  the  eyelet  in  shuttle  will  generally  overcome  this  defect. 

Filling  Slipping  Up  or  Down  on  Fork         \^ 

As  the  fork  is  passing  through  the  grate,  the  filling  sometimes  slips 
either  up  or  down  the  fork.  This  depends  on  the  shape  of  the  fork. 
When  possible  a  straight  prong  fork  should  be  used  and  if  filling  should 
slip  on  same,  two  or  three  niii£|ies  ciixube  niade  in  the  prongs  just  about 
where  the  filling  should  be  held.  These  notches  must  noilbe  sharp  or 
thev  will  cut  the  filling.  ^-^^  "    "  . 

Wrong  Timing  of  Stop  Motion  Cam 

If  stop  motion  cam  is  set  too  early,  the  elbow  lever  comes  in  contact 
with  the  catch  on  fork  and  loom  is  stopped.  If  cam  is  set  too  late,  the 
fork  will  have  been  raised  and  have  dropped  back  again  in  time  for  elbow 
lever  to  come  in  contact  with  catch  on  fork  and  stop  loom. 

Crooked  Running  Shuttle  \y 

A  crooked  running  shuttle  will  sometimes  touch  the  fork  in  passing 
and  this  causes  the  fork  to  jump.  The  result  iT  thai  ine^'catch  on  fork 
drops  in  front  of  elbow  lever  and  if  lever  is  being  moved  outwards  by  the 
stop  motion  cam  the  loom  is  stopped.  A  late  pick  will  sometimes  have 
this  effect,  the  back  end  of  the  shuttle  touching  the  fork  as  shuttle  passes 
into  the  box. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  53 

Stand  for  Shipper  Handle  Worn 

If  the  shipper  handle  stand  is  worn,  the  shipper  handle  will  slip  out 
and  loom  will  stop.  This  only  occurs  on  old  looms,  hut  the  stand  will 
have  to  be  fixed  so  that  the  shipper  handle  will  fit  securely  in  it. 

Occasional  Rubbing  of  Danger  Against  Frog         i^^ 

When  the  lay  comes  forward  lo  beat  up  the  filling,  the  dagger  should 
make  a  full  clearance  of  the  frog.  Sometimes  the  dagger  rubs  against 
the  frog,  not  enough  to  make  the  loom  bang  off,  but  enough  to  gradually 
push  off  the  shipper  handle.  This  can  be  seen  by  looking  at  the  end  of 
dagger,  which  will  be  worn  and  polished  by  coming  in  contact  with  the 
frog.  To  remedy  this,  the  dagger  and  protector  fingers  will  have  to  be 
reset.  In  resetting  the  dagger  have  frog  in  position  it  will  be  when  loom 
is  running.  Bring  lay  forward  and  have  dagger  full  in  frog.  The  protec- 
tor fingers  should  then  be  set  full  against  the  binders.  When  shuttle  is 
in  box,  the  end  of  binder  should  be  clear  from  box  about  one-half  to  five- 
eighths  of  an  inch.  In  setting  the  dagger  and  protector  fingers,  if  frog  is 
not  in  the  position  it  will  be  when  loom  is  running,  but  is  back  from 
that  position,  the  dagger  will  strike  too  high  and  will  often  cause  a 
smash. 

CHAPTER  XV 

SHUTTLE  FLYING  OUT 

Shuttle  flying  out  of  the  loom  is  probably  the  most  dangerous  thing 
in  weaving.  However,  shuttles  do  not  fly  out  very  often,  considering  the 
number  of  times  the  shuttle  travels* across  the  lay,  and  very  little  injury 
is  caused  by  them.  Practically  all  American  looms  are  equipped  with  a 
shuttle  guard.  This  is  attached  to  the  lay  cap  so  that  if  shuttle  should 
fly  out  of  the  shed  in  passing  from  one  shuttle  box  to  the  other,  the 
shuttle  guard  will  keep  the  shuttle  from  leaving  the  loom.  This  reduces 
the  danger  of  flying  shuttles  to  a  minimum- 

The  shuttle  should  travel  straight  across  the  lay.  If  there  should  be 
any  obstruction  in  the  path  of  the  shuttle  it  causes  shuttle  to  fly  out. 
Sometimes  when  an  end  breaks  it  becomes  entangled  with  the  other  ends 
behind  the  reed  and  if  the  shuttle  should  pass  on  top  of  the  tangled  ends 
it  will  have  a  tendency  to  fly  out,  especially  if  the  cloth  is  being  woven 
with  a  loose  top  shed.  Sometimes  the  cause  of  a  shuttle  flying  out  is 
hard  to  locate;  at  other  times  the  cause  can  readily  be  located.  There 
are  quite  a  number  of  causes  of  shuttle  flying  out,  some  of  which  will 
be  enumerated. 

Overfaced  Reed 

The  reed  should  always  be  in  line  with  the  back  of  box.  A  straight- 
edge snould  always  bo  used  to  line  the  back  of  box  and  reed.  If  the 
reed  is  in  front  of  the  back  of  box,  or  in  other  words  is  overfaced,  the 
shuttle  will  almost  certainly  fly  out.  The  tip  of  the  shuttle  is  turned 
outwards  on  delivery  and  shuttle  shoots  out.  Overfaced  reed  can  some- 
times be  remedied  by  adjustment  of  the  lay  cap  so  as  to  have  the  reed 
in  line  with  back  of  dox. 

Sometimes  only  thw  ends  of  reed  are  overfaced.  This  is  due  to  the 
loom  fixer  using  the  hammer  or  wrench  on  the  ends  of  reed  to  prevent 
overfaced  reed,  bul  when  reed  is  turned  around  an  overfaced  reed  is 
made  and  the  ends  oi  reed  have  again  to  be  knocked  back  into  line.  The 
ends  of  a  reed  shouid  never  be  knocked  back,  but  should  be  lined  up 
accurately  with  the  straight-edge. 

The  reed  should  fce  perfectly  straight  and  smooth  from  one  end  to 
the  other,  and  shoulcf  not  be  dinged  at  any  point,  as  this  will  cause  a 


54 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


crooked  running  shuttle.     Neither  should  any  reed  wires  protrude  in 
front,  as  this  will  have  a  tendency  to  cause  the  shuttle  to  fly  out. 

Underfaced  Reed 

An  underfaced  reed  is  one  in  which  the  end  of  reed  is  behind  the 
back  of  box.  This  causes  the  shuttle  to  run  zigzag  across  the  lay  and 
also  causes  shuttle  to  fly  out.  As  in  overfaced  reed,  the  reed  should  be 
lined  accurately  with  back  of  box.  This  defect  will  also  cause  the  shuttle 
to  be  chipped  on  the  back  as  it  is  entering  the  box. 

Yarn  Too  High  Off  Race  Plate 

If  the  yarn  is  too  high  off  the  race  plate,  the  shuttle  will  be  raised  at 
delivery  and  will  often  fly  out.  Yarn  can  be  too  high  off  race  plate  by 
harness  not  being  pulled  down  low  enough  or  by  temple  being  too  high 
above  race  plate. 


Picker  Too  Low 


If  picker  is  too 
low  at  the  back  end 
of  box,  or  when  shut- 
tle is  being  deliver- 
ed, the  shuttle  will 
almost  certainly  fly 
out-  When  picker  is 
fastened  to  picker 
stick  after  having 
found  the  correct 
position  of  same,  it 
is  advisable  to  make 
a  small  hole  in  pick- 
er where  shuttle 
strikes,  and  to  have 
this  hole  a  trifle 
higher  than  tip  of 
shuttle  when  shuttle 
is  in  box.  The  shut- 
tle will  run  with  the 
tip  in  center  of  hole 
in  picker  and  shut- 
tle level  on  race  iron, 
but  better  results 
are  possibly  obtained 
by  having  the  hole 
raised  about  one-six- 
teenth of  an  inch 
higher.  Under  no  cir- 
cumstances must  the 
hole  in  picker  be  too 
low. 

If  the  picker  is  too 
low  when  delivering 
the  shuttle,  the  outer 
end     of     shuttle     is 


Figure  33 


tilted  and  shuttle  will  almost  certainly  fly  out  or  hit  the  moutlipiece 
of  the  opposite  box.  To  remedy  this,  put  a  piece  of  leather  between 
picker  stick  and  parallel  tongue  and  this  will  elevate  the  picker  at 
delivery.  This  is  illustrated  at  Fig.  33.  Arrow  indicates  where  leather 
will  be  inserted.  Parallel  or  shoe  in  solid  lines  shows  position  before 
leather  is  inserted.  Dotted  lines  shows  position  of  parallel  after  leather 
has  been  inserted.    This  lowering  of  the  parallel  alters  the  angle  of  picker 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  55 

stick  at  delivery  and  raises  the  picker.  On  some  looms  an  adjusting  set 
nut  is  used  to  make  whatever  adjustments  are  necessary  and  this  does 
away  with  the  necessity  of  using  a  leather  wedge. 

Loose  Top  Shed 

If  the  top  shed  is  too  loose,  the  shuttle  tip  will  pass  on  top  of  the 
loose  ends  and  shuttle  will  fly  out.  Loose  top  shed  can  be  caused  by 
whip  roll  being  too  high;  also  harness  shaft  not  raised  high  enough. 
Individual  ends  hanging  loose  in  shed  will  sometimes  cause  shuttle  to 
fly  out. 

m  Kebounding  Shuttle 

When  a  shuttle  rebounds  in  the  box,  the  picker  in  picking  strikes  the 
shuttle  a  sudden  blow  because  of  the  distance  between  tip  of  shuttle  and 
picker.  The  shuttle  is  driven  crooked  from  the  box  and  shuttle  will  fly 
out. 

Race  Plate  Loose 

A  loose  race  plate  is  sometimes  the  cause  of  shuttle  flying  out,  as 
this  causes  shuttle  to  travel  crooked  across  the  lay. 

Pick  Too  Early 

If  the  pick  is  too  early  the  shuttle  instead  of  going  in  the  shed  passes 
on  the  top  and  will  fly  out.  Early  picking  also  causes  shuttle  to  travel 
crooked  across  the  lay,  and  causes  ridges  to  be  made  on  back  of  shuttle. 
When  a  shuttle  does  not  travel  straight  across  the  lay,  it  will  sooner  or 
later  fly  out. 

Worn  Picker 

Pickers  can  sometimes  be  used  until  they  are  thoroughly  worn  out 
and  are  then  replaced-  At  other  times  when  the  picker  is  worn  and  the 
hole  made  by  the  shuttle  tip  is  too  deep,  there  is  a  binding  on  the  back 
of  shuttle  when  shuttle  is  being  delivered  from  box,  and  shuttle  is  thrown 
out.  This  binding  can  sometimes  be  remedied  by  elevating  the  picker  at 
delivery  as  is  done  when  picker  is  too  low. 

CUTTING  FILLING 

This  is  a  source  of  trouble,  as  it  is  often  difficult  to  locate.  This  will 
generally  cause  the  loom  to  stop,  though  at  times  the  filling  will  be  cut 
and  will  show  a  broken  pick  in  the  middle  of  the  cloth,  the  tilling  having 
been  caught  in  the  shed  again  on  the  same  pick.  This  will  spoil  a  pattern 
on  some  fancy  fabrics.  The  following  are  some  of  the  causes  of  filling 
being  cut: 

Groove  in  Shuttle  Not  Deep  Enough 

When  the  shuttle  is  in  shuttle  box,  the  filling  lies  in  the  groove  of 
the  shuttle.  If  the  face  of  the  shuttle  has  been  worn  by  constant  wear 
and  the  groove  is  not  deep  enough,  the  filling  is  likely  to  be  cut.  The 
gi*oove  on  end  of  shuttle  beyond  the  eyelet  must  not  be  allowed  to  wear 
oft',  as  this  is  a  source  of  cutting  filling,  especially  on  fine  work.  A 
shuttle,  flat  at  the  bottom,  caused  by  the  wear  on  shuttle  in  traveling 
across  the  lay  will  also  cut  the  filling.  The  groove  at  the  bottom  of 
shuttle  must  be  retained  as  well  as  the  groove  in  front  of  shuttle. 

Temple  Too  Low 

If  the  trough  of  the  temple  is  too  low,  the  filling  which  often  gets 
under  the  temple  will  be  cut  by  the  race  plate  coming  in  contact  with 
the  temple. 


56  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

Sharp  Eyelet  in  Shuttle 

This  is  caused  by  face  of  shuttle  being  worn  and  with  shuttle  striking 
mouthpiece  of  the  box.  The  sharp  edge  will  have  to  be  taken  off  and 
the  eyelet  put  a  little  deeper  in  the  shuttle. 

Shuttle  Rising  in  Box 

If  the  shuttle  rises  in  box,  the  filling  will  get  out  of  groove  in  shuttle 
and  will  be  cut,  especially  if  there  is  a  groove  in  the  binder,  or  the 
groove  has  a  sharp  edge.  When  an  iron  binder  is  used,  the  top  can  be 
bent  over  just  a  trifle  and  this  prevents  the  shuttle  from  rising. 

Sharp  Filling  Fork  and  Grate 

Sometimes  the  grate  becomes  sharp  on  the  edge  and  this  cuts  the 
filling.  If  the  filling  fork  is  sharp  or  passes  too  far  through  the  grate, 
filling  is  sometimes  cut.    All  sharp  edges  must  be  avoided. 

Crooked  Running  Shuttle 

A  crooked  running  shuttle  often  strikes  the  mouthpiece  of  the  box 
as  shuttle  is  entering  and  filling  is  cut.  Shuttle  should  go  straight  into 
the  box. 

Shuttle  Spindle  Sharp 

When  using  cop  filling  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  open  out  the 
spindle  to  prevent  the  filling  from  breaking-  In  doing  this,  the  end  of 
spindle  becomes  sharp  and  when  the  cop  is  put  on  spindle  the  filling  is 
cut  inside  the  cop. 

FILLI.NG  AND  BOBBINS  BREAKING 

Pick  Too  Strong 

If  the  pick  is  too  strong,  the  shuttle  will  strike  too  hard  in  the  box 
and  filling  will  be  broken.  The  base  of  the  bobbin,  nnmely.  that  part 
which  is  held  so  as  to  prevent  bobbin  from  slipping,  will  be  broken  off. 
This  causes  much  waste  to  be  made  and  pick  should  be  reduced  as  soon 
as  possible. 

Boxes  Too  Loose 

In  this  case  practically  the  same  thing  happens  as  in  pick  too  strong. 
The  shuttle  is  not  checked  and  strikes  hard  against  the  picker  and  filling 
will  be  broken.  The  boxes  should  be  tightened,  but  should  not  be  too 
tight. 

Soft  Bobbin 

If  the  spinning  frame  band  is  loose,  a  .soft  bobbin  is  made.  It  is 
almost  impr)ssible  to  weave  a  soft  bobbin. 

Shuttle  Spindle  Too  Small  For  Cop 

If  the  shuttle  spindle  is  very  much  too  small  for  cop  it  will  have  to 
be  replaced  with  a  new  one.  A  spindle  can  often  be  made  large  enough 
to  hold  a  cop  by  opening  if,  but  care  is  required  so  that  the  spindle  will 
not  cut  the  filling. 

LNE\ EN  CLOTH 

Uneven  cloth  is  a  fabric  in  which  the  filling  is  not  beaten  into  the 
cloth  evenly,  thereby  causing  the  fabric  to  have  a  more  or  less  cloudy 
appearance;  also  fabrics  in  which  thick  and  thin  places  appear  while 
loom  is  running.  Very  often  uneven  clotli  is  the  result  of  imperfect 
working  of  the  let-off  motion  though  thore  are  other  causes  for  this 
defect  as  follows: 


/, 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  57 

Rope  on  Friction  Let  Oil'  Rinding 

The  rope  on  friction  let-ufT  often  binds  in  damp  weather  as  it  be- 
comes sticl<y,  owing  to  dampness  and  the  yarn  is  not  let  off  evenly.  The 
rope  should  he  taken  ofl"  and  thoroughly  cleaned,  then  a  little  powdered 
black  lead,  French  chalk  or  talc  powder  sprinkled  on  the  rope  and  beam 
will  work  easy.  Black  lead  is  the  best,  also  the  most  expensive,  but  only 
a  little  need  be  used  at  a  time.  Tallow  is  sometimes  used,  but  this  does 
not  give  good  results,  as  the  ropes  soon  become  sticky  again,  owing  to 
dust  and  tlyings  accumulating  on  fhem.  Oil  is  sometimes  dropped  on  the 
rope  by  Ihe  weaver,  but  (iiis  slinuld  not  be  allowed,  as  rope  soon  has  to 
be  cleaned  owing  to  accumulations  of  dust  and  lint. 

Take  Up  ^lotion  Out  of  Order 

If  the  gears  on  take  up  motion  are  meshed  too  deep  in  each  other 
they  will  lock  and  uneven  cloth  result.  If  the  take  up  pawl  takes  up 
more  than  one  tooth  of  the  ratchet  gear  at  certain  times  the  cloth  will  be 
more  or  less  thin  at  that  point-  If  the  pawl  slips  over  the  teeth  in  ratchet 
gear  occasionally,  thick  places  will  result.  The  pawl  will  slip  over  teeth 
because  it  is  worn  and  sometimes  because  of  the  teeth  not  being  clear 
or  deep  enough. 

Loose  Crank  Arm 

A  loose  crank  arm  will  make  uneven  cloth  on  one  side  of  the  cloth. 

Gudgeons  or  Beam  Spikes  Bent 

Gudgeons  are  sometimes  bent  when  the  loom  beam  is  banged  on  the 
floor.  This  causes  the  beam  to  bind  in  the  loom  and  the  yarn  is  let  off 
uneven  causing  uneven  cloth. 

Worn  Pawl  and  Gear  in  Gear  Let  Off 

If  the  pawl  in  geai"  let  otl'  is  worn  it  will  pass  over  a  few  teeth  in 
the  ratchet  gear  when  it  ought  not  to,  and  yarn  will  not  bo  let  off  evenly. 
Or,  if  the  ratchet  gear  is  worn  the  pawl  will  pass  over  a  number  of  teeth 
and  the  yarn  will  not  be  let  off  evenly.  In  both  cases  uneven  cloth  will 
be  made. 

Weak  Spring  Beliind  Let  Off  Pawl 

The  pawl  is  kept  in  contact  with  the  ratchet  gear  by  a  small  spring 
pressing  against  the  back  end  of  pawl.  If  this  spring  becomes  weak,  the 
pawl  will  slip  over  some  teeth  occasionally  causing  yarn  to  be  let  off 
unevenly.  It  is  advisable  to  look  out  for  this,  for  if  the  spring  should 
break,  the  yarn  will  not  be  let  off  at  all  and  a  smash  will  result. 

Small  Pinion  Geai*  Too  Deep  in  Beam  Head 

The  small  driving  pinion  should  not  mesh  loo  deep  into  the  teeth  on 
beam  head,  as  this  will  cause  the  beam  to  jump,  especially  if  any  small 
chips  of  iron  have  been  left  between  the  teeth  on  beam  head.  All  new 
beam  heads  should  be  examineri  for  this  and  all  small  chips  taken  out. 

Worm  and  Worm  Gear  Binding 

The  whole  gear  let  off  motion  should  work  free  and  easy.  If  there 
is  any  binding  whatever,  either  in  worm  and  worm  gear,  ratchet  gear  of 
any  other  part,  uneven  cloth  will  be  made.  Care  should  be  taken  with 
this  let  off  motion  to  have  all  parts  well  oiled  and  carefully  adjusted. 

Uneven  Filling 

On  fine  goods  uneven  tilling  shows  up  very  plainly  in  the  goods  and 
sometimes  makes  the  cloth  ajipear  uneven. 

Harness  Straps  Lapping  Under 

If  the  harness  straps  lap  under  each  other,  a  jerky  motion  is  given  to 
the  harness  and  this  causes  streaks  in  the  cloth,  esi)ecially  on  fine  work. 


58 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


CHAPTER  XVI 

Automatic  or  Labor  Saving  Looms 

The  automatic  loom  has  been  the  means  of  saving  much  labor  in  the 
weave  room.  In  general,  there  are  two  kinds  of  automatic  looms  in  use. 
One  is  a  bobbin  changer,  and  the  other  a  shuttile  changer.  The  bobbin 
changing  loom  changes  the  bobbin  while  loom  is  in  motion.  The  shuttle 
changing  loom  stops  for  a  few  picks  while  the  shuttles  are  being  changed. 
One  shuttle  is  used  continuously  in  the  bobbin  changing  loom,  but  in  the 


Figure  34 

shuttle  changing  loom  about  nine  shuttles  can  be  used,  eight  being  held 
in  a  magazine  while  the  other  shuttle  is  running  in  loom. 

The  automatic  motion  is  an  addition  to  a  regular  loom  and  the  con- 
struction of  loom  and  fixing  points,  as  given  previously,  are  as  applicable 
to  automatic  looms  as  to  ordinary  looms.    The  only  part  of  the  looms 

that  need  consideration  now  is  the  automatic  feature. 

The  Stafford  Shuttle  Changing  Loom 

Figs.  34  and  35  show  the  working  parts  of  the  Stafford  loom.  In  Fig. 
34  K  is  a  bevel  gear  on  friction  pulley.  This  gear  drives  shaft  I  through 
bevel  gear  J,  the  shaft  carrying  on  its  opposite  end  a  worm  gear  H.    The 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


59 


worm  gear  meshes  into  worm  wheel  G,  giving  this  wheel  a  continuous 
motion  but  at  a  slow  speed.  The  worm  wheel  is  loose  on  the  shaft  L 
and  carries  no  load  until  brought  into  use  by  the  filling  fork  and  slide. 
A,  represents  filling  fork;  A'  filling  stop  motion  lever;  B  and  B'  connection 
between  filling  fork  slide  and  changing  motion.  Another  sketch  of  the 
changing  motion  is  given  at  Fig.  3(5.  When  filling  breaks,  elbow  lever 
pulls  back  the  filling  fork  slide  H.  This  performs  two  operations  simul- 
taneously. First,  pushes  off  shipper  handle;  second,  starts  changing 
motion.  When  shipper  handle  is  pushed  off,  cam  A,  through  connecting 
rod  B,  is  changed  from  one  side  to  the  other. 

In  making  this  change,  the  center  or  highest  point  of  cam  marked  x 


Figure  35 

lifts  the  locking  lever  G.  At  this  point  the  filling  fork  slide  H  is  pulled 
back,  and  through  connecting  rod  J  lifts  lever  G,  which  pushes  forward 
lever  D.  This  relieves  lever.  E,  which  in  turn  causes  point  of  clutch 
lever  F  Fig.  34,  to  engage  with  the  disc,  G  Fig.  34,  that  is,  to  enter  one  of 
the  recesses  in  the  disc. 

The  clutch  lever  is  mounted  on  a  hub  keyed  to  the  cross  shaft  and 
the  disc  is  cast  integral  with  the  worm  wheel  with  the  result  that  the 
cross  shaft  is  set  in  motion. 

Fig.  35  illustrates  the  changing  cams  and  magazine  end.  There  are 
three  cams  on  end  of  cross  shaft,  two  of  them  being  cast  together  and 


60 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


the  third  locked  to  these  two  so  that  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  get  out 
of  connection  with  each  other.  S,  is  the  conveyor  lever  cam;  W,  the 
starting  lever  cam  which  is  cast  with  the  front  board  cam. 

The  front  board  is  the  front  part  of  shuttle  box.  The  front  board 
cam  is  shown  in  contact  with  the  roll  on  lever  N.  As  the  cross  shaft 
revolves,  the  cam  S  starts  the  conveyor  lever  R  forward  to  receive  a  fresh 
shuttle  from  the  magazine  T.  The.  cam  W  through  the  lever  N  and 
connecting  rod  O  raises  the  front  board  M,  to  permit  the  spent  shuttle  to 
be  ejected  by  ejector  I  and  this  throws  out  the  shuttle,  to  be  guided  by 
the  leather  apron  P'  into  the  receiving  box  F.  The  conveyor  lever  R 
now  starts  back  carrying  a  fresh  shuttle.  The  front  board  is  kept  raised 
so  that  this  shuttle  can  be  placed  in  the  box.  When  this  is  done,  the 
front  board  is  closed  by  means  of  a  spring  and  the  conveyor  lever  starts 


Figure  36 

towards  its  normal  position.  The  starting  lover  cam  W  now  gives  motion 
through  lever  X  to  the  shipper  rod  Y  and  the  give-away  lever  Z  throws 
in  the  shipper  handle  and  starts  the  loom.  The  conveyor  lever  by  this 
time  has  returned  to  its  normal  position  and  the  point  of  clutch  lever  F, 
Fig.  34  is  thrown  out  of  the  disk.  All  parts  are  now  stationery  until  it  is 
necessary  to  replenish  the  filling  again. 

The  spent  shuttle  as  it  is  ejected,  falls  into  the  receiving  box  I'  where 
it  is  checked  by  the  plate  C  so  that  it  falls  easily  into  the  box.  The 
plate  C  also  acts  in  connection  with  the  weighted  lever  D'  and  the  hook 
E'.  As  the  conveyor  lever  goes  forward  to  receive  a  new  shuttle,  the 
hook  drops  into  a  recess  in  the  conveyor  lever.  When  the  spent  shuttle 
falls  on  the  plate  C  on  its  way  to  the  receiver  box,  the  hook  is  released 
and  the  lever  can  perform  its  regular  functions-  If  the  spent  shuttle  is 
not  ejected,  the  hook  remains  in  contact  with  the  conveyor  lever  and  a 
new  shuttle  is  not  put  in  the  shuttle  box,  thus  preventing  a  smash  up. 

A  safety  device  prevents  breakages  also  on  the  changing  motion 
Fig.  30.  Unless  the  highest  point  of  cam  marked  X  is  just  passing  under 
pin  on  lever  G  when  the  filling  fork  is  i)ulled  out,  the  lever  D  cannot  be 
moved  and  spring  between  connecting  levers  D  and  G  merely  expands 
and  breakages  are  prevented. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


61 


Warp  Stop  >I«ti<)ii 


^ 


This  niolion  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  35.  Gear  G  is  fixed  on  bottom  shaft 
and  is  moshod  into  gear  H,  which  drives  the  follower  bar  through  con- 
necting rod  O'  and  N'.  The  follower  bar,  as  it  travels  backwards  and 
forwards  raises  hook  J',  which  clears  the  give-away  collar  F'  on  rod  Y. 
When  an  end  bi'eaks,  a  drop  wire  K'  falls  in  the  path  of  the  follower  bar 
and  this  causes  the  hook  J'  to  come  in  contact  with  the  give-away  collar 
F  and  loom  is  stopped. 

The  following  points  will  assist  in  the  operation  of  the  loom: 

The  front  board  should  be  lifted  just  high  enough   to  allow  the 


Figure  37 

empty  shuttle  to  be  ejected  freely.  The  ejector  should  be  out  of  the  way 
of  the  new  shuttle  that  is  being  put  in  the  box.  The  new  shuttle  should 
be  delivered  freely  out  of  the  magazine.  The  shuttle  in  magazine  should 
not  rest  on  shuttle  that  is  being  put  in  shuttle  box.  The  conveyor  top 
should  be  perfectly  square  with  the  lay  and  conveyor  fingers  should  just 
clear  the  race  plate. 


62 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


CHAPTER  XVII 

NORTHROP  LOOM 

The  Northrop  loom  is  a  bobbin  changing  loom,  the  bobbin  being  changed 
while  the  loom  is  in  operation.  The  forcing  of  the  empty  bobbin  out  of 
the  shuttle  and  the  placing  of  a  full  bobbin  in  the  shuttle  while  the  loom 
IS  in  operation  requires  every  part  to  be  set  and  adjusted  correctly. 

When   filling  feeler  motion   is   not   used,   motion   is   imparted   from 
fingers  in  contact  with  the  filling  fork  slide  to  the  working  parts  for 


*»^?»p*"'*s<"' 


'-i^r-'^ 


I  VII 


,^mm.. 


Figure  38 

transferring  the  full  bobbin  to  shuttle.  Fig.  37  illustrates  these  parts. 
When  filling  breaks-,  the  filling  fork  slide  is  pulled  back  and  being  in 
contact  with  the  finger  on  starting  rod,  will  turn  the  starting  rod  into 
operative  position.  The  shuttle  at  this  time  is  traveling  to  the  hopper 
side  of  the  loom  to  be  in  position  to  receive  a  fresh  bobbin-  The  bobbins 
in  hopper  being  in  position,  the  bobbin  to  be  transferred  will  be  resting 
on  the  bobbin  support  E  and  against  the  bobbin  rest  A.    When  the  start- 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  63 

ing  rod  has  been  turned,  the  latch  C  is  raised  and  as  the  lay  comes  for- 
ward to  the  front  center,  the  bunfer  D  comes  in  contact  with  latch  C, 
forcing  down  the  transferer  B  on  the  full  bobbin.  The  full  bobbin  forces 
the  empty  bobbin  out  of  the  shuttle  and  remains  there. 

The  shuttle  should  be  in  correct  position  in  the  box  with  the  shuttle 
spring  in  line,  with  the  heads  of  bobbins  in  the  hopper.  With  shuttle 
in  correct  position,  the  transferrer  should  not  touch  at  any  poinl.  If 
the  transferrer  should  touch  the  shuttle,  the  proper  position  can  be 
secured  by  turning  the  eccentric  pms  in  lay  swords.  The  pins  in  both 
swords  should  be  turned  an  equal  amount  so  that  both  of  the  crank  arms 
will  remain  equal. 

In  setting  the  transferrer  to  the  bobbin  the  head  of  transferrer  when 
at  its  lowest  point  should  show  a  clearance  of  about  one-sixteenth  of  an 
inch.  The  adjustment  for  this  is  made  by  means  of  set  screw  and  adjust- 
ing nut  on  latch  C. 

With  lay  in  its  forward  position  and  a  bobbin  being  transferred,  the 
shuttle  feeler  will  extend  across  the  mouth  of  the  box  with  the  end  of 
feeler  close  to  the  back  of  box  but  not  touching  it.  When  shuttle  does 
not  go  far  enough  in  the  box,  the  end  of  shuttle  comes  in  contact  with 
the  shuttle  feeler  and  the  feeler  is  pushed  back.  This  causes  the  latch 
G  to  be  out  of  position,  thus  preventing  the  hunter  D  from  engaging  with 
the  latch  and  a  fresh  bobbin  is  not  inserted  in  the  shuttle.  The  shuttle 
feeler  should  be  kept  in  good  working  condition  and  properly  adjusted. 

With  filling  feeler  in  use,  motion  is  imparted  to  the  working  parts  for 
transferring  bobbin,  from  the  feeler  through  the  slide  and  startmg  rod 
arm.  When  using  filling  feeler,  the  shuttle  feeler  is  made  in  the  form 
of  a  thread  cutter  and  care  must  be  taken  so  that  it  will  cut  the  thread 
at  the  proper  time  and  also  prevent  the  transfer  of  bobbin  when  shuttle 
is  not  in  position. 

The  shuttle  should  be  in  correct  position  in  box.  If  the  shuttle  is 
too  far  in  box,  the  spring  cover  at  the  end  of  shuttle  will  permit  the 
bobbin  be  put  in  the  shuttle  because  it  is  beveled.  The  loom,  however, 
should  not  be  run  with  shuttle  too  far  in  box  but  should  be  remedied  as 
soon  as  possible.  A  worn  picker  will  often  cause  this.  The  eye  of  shuttle 
should  be  kept  clear  of  cotton  or  lint  and  the  thread  entrance  to  the  eye 
should  be  kept  open  the  correct  distance  and  not  be  opened  too  wide. 

For  friction,  a  piece  of  flannel  placed  near  the  mouthpiece  of  shuttle 
is  often  sufficient,  this  flannel  being  changed  from  time  to  time-  A  good 
friction  is  made  from  bristles,  the  bristles  being  fastened  to  both  front 
and  back  of  shuttle. 

If  the  shuttle  is  in  correct  position,  the  thread  entrance  in  shuttle 
open  the  correct  space,  a  light  easy  pick  with  not  too  much  pressure  on 
the  binder,  misthreading  of  the  shuttle  will  be  reduced  to  a  minimum. 

Warp  Stop  Motions 

When  steel  heddles  are  used  the  heddles  are  used  as  detectors  to  stop 
the  loom  when  an  end  breaks.  When  ordinary  twine  or  cotton  harness  is 
used,  drop  wires  are  used  between  lease  rods  and  harness  or  as  in  illus- 
tration Fig.  38.  where  there  is  one  drop  wire  for  each  end  and  the  drop 
wires  are  arranged  in  two  banks.  As  the  cam  A  revolves,  the  feeler  bar 
B  oscillates  backwards  and  forwards.  Movement  is  imparted  to  the  feeler 
through  G  and  the  cam.  follower  D.  The  knock  off  lever  E  should  be  set 
against  its  bearing  on  the  cam  hub  so  as  not  to  have  any  back  lash.  The 
feeler  bar  should  move  an  equal  distance  on  each  side  of  the  shaft  to 
ensure  good  working  of  the  stop  motion.  The  cam  follower  should  be 
set  to  follow  the  cam  properly  and  this  can  be  obtained  by  adjusting  the 
spring  to  its  proper  tension. 

CHAPTER  XVIII 
GINGH.\M  LOOMS 

When  fabrics  have  to  be  produced  in  which  there  are  various  colored 
threads  in  the  filling,  drop-box  looms  have  to  be  used.    These  looms  are 


64 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


usually  constructed  with  cither  two,  four  or  six  shuttle  boxes  at  one 
end  of  the  lay  and  one  shuttle  box  at  the  other  end.  An  eveiunuimber  of 
picks  of  any  given  color  of  filling  must  be  inserted  in  the  cloth,  as  the 
shuttle  must  return  to  the  drop-box  end  before  a  change  can  be  niad<> 
from  one  color  to  another.  There  are  a  number  of  different  motions  in 
use  to  operate  the  drop  boxes,  one  of  the  best  of  these  being  known  as 
the  Crompton  Box  Motion. 

Box  Motion 

Fig.  39  illustrates  two  views  of  this  box  motion.  Fiisl,  at  .\,  when 
looking  at  motion  from  end  of  loom.  Second,  at  B,  when  looking  at 
motion  from  back  of  loom.  At  C,  the  shape  of  the  eccentric  C  and  the 
crank  E  is  illustrated.  The  parts  are  as  follows:  A  is  the  driving  pin 
in  pin-wheel,  said  pin-wheel  being  set  screwed  on  pick-cam  shaft.  B  is 
the  star  gear.  C,  the  single-box  eccentric-  D,  the  side  lever.  E,  crank 
for  two-box  movement.  F,  small  segment  gear.  G,  the  double-sliding 
finger.  H,  rod  through  which  the  top  double-sliding  finger  is  operated. 
J,  rod  through  which  the  bottom  sliding  finger  is  operated. 

Operation  of  Motion  and  Boxes.  As  the  pin-wheel,  which  is  set- 
screwed  on  pick-cam  shaft,  is  carried  around  with  the  shaft,  the  driving 
pin  A  passes  into  one  of  the  recesses  in  the  star  gear  B  and  carries  the 
gear  forward.    The  periphery  of  this  gear  is  divided  into  ten  equal  parts. 


Figure  39 

each  part  consisting  of  seven  teeth  and  an  empty  space  equal  to  three 
teeth.  The  small  segment  gears  F  liave  six  teetli  on  each  side  and  an 
empty  space  between  teeth.  An  empty  space  on  the  star  gear  and  small 
segment  gears  are  always  opposite  to  each  other  before  and  after  a  box 
has  been  raised  or  lowered.    This  is  to  allow  the  double  sliding  finger  G 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  66 

to  pass  in  and  oiif  when  boxps  havo  (o  he  changcfl.  Tho  single  liox 
eccentric  C  is  fastened  on  the  shaft  which  carries  on  its  opposite  end  the 
small  segment  gear  F.  The  crank  for  two-box  movement  is  fastened  on 
the  shaft  which  carries  on  its  opposite  end  the  small  segment  gear  F. 

■  The  illustration  given  shows  the  box  motion  when  the  boxes  aiP  in 
their  normal  position,  namely,  with  first  or  top  opposite  the  race  plate. 
When  the  single-box  eccentric  and  the  two-box  crank  are  in  this  |)osi- 
tion,  the  i)ro.jection  on  end  of  double  sliding  finger  is  on  the  outside  so 
that  when  loom  is  running,  the  gear  will  revolve  without  coming  in 
contact  with  the  proj(>ction  and  boxes  will  not  be  changed. 

Timing  of  Box  Motion.  The  boxes  arc  timed  by  the  pin  wheel  on 
end  of  pick  cam  shaft.  This  can  be  set  to  turn  the  star  gear  at  any  |)oint. 
A  good  setting  and  one  which  will  generally  give  satisfaction,  is  to  set 
the  driving  pin  in  pin  w^heel  to  turn  the  star  gear  so  as  to  have  the  boxes 
about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  above  or  below  the  race  plate  when  the 
tlagger  is  in  contact  with  the  frog.  The  frog  must  be  in  the  position  it 
will  be  when  loom  is  running.  By  the  term,  above  the  race  plate  is 
meant,  when  boxes  are  being  raised;  below  the  race  plate,  when  boxes 
are  being  lowered- 

To  Raise  from  First  to  Second  Box.  Insert  a  riser  in  the  box  chain 
under  the  lever  which  operates  (through  the  rod  H),  the  double-sliding 
finger  on  the  single-box  eccentric.  This  will  force  the  short  end  of  the 
double-sliding  finger  between  the  star  gear  and  the  small  segment  gear 
and  the  projection  on  the  end  of  the  finger  will  fill  in  the  space  between 
the  two  gears.  When  the  driving  pin  in  the  pin-wheel  turns  the  star 
gear,  the  first  tooth  in  the  gear  will  come  in  contact  with  the  projection 
on  sliding  finger.  This  enables  the  teeth  in  both  segment  gears  to  be 
meshed  into  each  other  and  the  eccentric  is  turned  half  around.  The 
deepest  portion  of  the  eccentric  is  turned  from  bottom  to  top,  which 
raises  the  side  lever  D  and  consequently  the  boxes.  This  bi"ings  the 
second  box  opposite  the  race  plate.  The  long  end  of  the  double-biiding 
finger  is  now-  between  the  segment  gears  with  the  projection  on  <'nd  of 
finger  beyond  the  gears — this  allows  the  star  gear  to  revolve  witlioui 
coming  in  contact  with  the  small  segment  gear.  The  finger  will  n'lnain 
in  this  position  until  the  boxes  have  to  be  changed. 

To  Return  Box  to  Original  Position.  On  the  next  bar  in  box  chain 
leave  off  the  riser.  This  will  force  outwards  the  double-sliding  linger 
and  the  projection  on  the  end  of  finger  will  fill  the  space  between  the 
two  gears.  When  the  driving  pin  in  pin-wheel  turns  the  star  gear,  the 
first  tooth  of  the  gear  will  come  in  contact  with  the  projection,  and  the 
eccentric  will  be  turned  to  its  original  position,  which  will  bring  the  first 
box  opposite  the  race  plate. 

To  Raise  From  First  to  Third  Box.  Insert  a  riser  under  the  lever 
which  operates  (through  the  rod  J),  the  douhle-sliding  finger  on  the 
crank  which  controls  the  two-box  movement.  This  will  bring  the  pro- 
jection on  the  small  end  of  double-sliding  finger  between  the  two  segment 
gears,  and  the  crank  will  be  turned  half  around  exactly  as  in  the  case  of 
the  eccentric  above  described. 

To  Bring  Boxes  Back  to  Original  Position.  On  next  bar  of  box  chain, 
leave  off  the  riser.  This  will  bring  the  projection  on  finger  between  the 
two  segment  gears,  and  the  crank  will  make  half  a  revolution  and  to  its 
original  position  with  the  first  box  opposite  the  race  plate. 

To  Raise  From  First  to  Fourth  Box.  Insert  a  riser  in  box  chain 
under  both  levers.  This  will  bring  the  projection  on  the  short  end  of 
both  double-sliding  fingers  between  the  two  segment  gears-  When  the 
driving  pin  in  pin-wheel  turns  the  star  gear  both  the  eccentric  and  the 
crank  are  turned  half  around  and  the  fourth  box  is  brought  opposite  the 
race  plate. 

To  Bring  Boxes  Back  to  Original  Position.  On  next  bar  leave  off  both 
risers.     This  brings  the  projection  on  long  end  of  both  double-sliding 


66 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


fingers  between  the  segment  gears  and  both  the  single-box  eccentric  and 
the  two-box  crank  will  be  turned  half  around,  which  will  bring  the  boxes 
back  to  original  position,  the  first  or  top  box  opposite  the  race  plate. 

When  making  a  fabric,  the  boxes  do  not  change  in  the  order  given, 
that  is  to  say,  they  do  not  return  to  normal  position  each  time  before  a 
change  to  another  box  is  made.  The  order  as  given  above  shows  the 
principle  of  raising  and  lowering  the  boxes  separately.  In  actual  prac- 
tice the  changes  are  made  according  to  the  colors  in  the  shuttles  and 
the  colors  required  in  the  fabric. 

The  changes  thus  far  indicated  are  as  follows:  First  to  second  box, 
riser  under  single-box  lever.  Second  box  to  first  box,  empty  bar.  First 
box  to  third  box,  riser  under  lever  that  operates  the  crank  for  the  two- 
box  movement.  Third  box  to  first  box.  empty  bar.  First  box  to  fourth 
box,  riser  under  both  levers.    Fourth  box  to  first  box.  empty  bar. 

Any  change  between  these  can  be  made.  If  two  risers  will  raise 
from  first  to  fourth  box,  then  to  lower  to  third  box,  the  riser  on  the 
single-box  lever  is  left  out.  To  lower  from  fourth  to  second  box.  the 
riser  under  lever  that  operates  the  crank  for  two-box  movement  is  left 
out. 

CHAPTER  XIX 

GI\GHA>I  LOOM  BOX  CHAIN  BUILDING 

In  building  box  chains  there  are  several  points  that  have  to  be  taken 
into  consideration  in  order  to  have  the  loom  operating  to  the  best  advan- 
tage. There  should  not  be  a  skip  from  first  to  fourth  box,  or  from  fourth 
to  first  box  if  it  is  possible  to  avoid  same,  as  this  subjects  the  motion  to  a 
great  strain,  for  the  boxes  must  be  changed  in  the  same  time  as  when 
making  a  smaller  lift  of  one  or  two  boxes. 

The  shuttle  carrying  the  color  of  filling  that  is  used  most  is  very 
often  put  in  top  box.  'At  other  times,  when  the  number  of  picks  are  about 
equally  distributed  throughout  the  pattern,  the  dark  color  is  put  in  top 
box. 


Wh.fe. 

/ 

Z 

2 

'L 

P.cks 

BlarA 

2 

1 

/ 

14 

VVh,+p 

/ 

z 

3 

-u 

R^d 

.3 

3 

^ 

*A 

lA/  h  ,  fe 

/ 

Z 

5 

-(. 

G-r  e-="  n 

4- 

A 

4 

-Z 

5 

2< 
X 
X 

x" 
X 
X 

X 
X. 

C 

X 
X 

X 

Figure  40 

Arranging  the  Coloi*s  in  Boxes. — Example:  A  gingham  fabric  is  re- 
quired to  be  made  from,  the  following  colors:  6  picks  white,  4  picks  black, 
6  picks  white,  4  picks  red,  6  picks  white,  2  picks  green.  One  of  the  best 
methods  for  obtaining  the  arrangement  of  colors  in  boxes  is  as  follows: 
Write  under  each  other  the  different  colors  as  they  occur  in  the  fabric, 
then  opposite  each  color  mark  the  number  of  box  in  which  the  color  is 
to  be  tried  in;  the  top  box  in  loom  being  the  first  tJiox.    Using  example 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


67 


given,  Fig.  40  illustrates  the  colors  as  they  occur  in  example,  also  begin- 
ning in  first  line  with  the  first  color  in  first  box.  This  does  not  give  a 
good  arrangement,  as  there  is  a  skip  from  first  box  white  to  fourth  box 
with  green,  also  from  fourth  box  with  green  to  first  box  with  white.  The 
number  of  picks  of  each  color  to  be  inserted  in  flio  fabric  is  indicated  at 
the  side.  The  second  or  third  arrangement  will  be  satisfactory,  as  there 
is  only  a  skip  of  one  box.  The  box  chain  for  this  example  is  also  given 
at  Fig.  40  using  the  second  arrangement  of  colors.  S  indicates  single 
lever  to  raise  one  box.  C  indicates  crank  to  raise  two  boxes.  X  repre- 
sents risers  or  balls.  Empty  squares  represent  sinkers  or  tubes.  Each 
bar  in  box  chain  is  equal  to  two  picks. 

MULTIPLIER  MOTION 

When  check  patterns  have  to  be  woven  in  which  a  large  number  of 
picks  of  the  same  color  are  inserted  in  the  fabric  before  a  change  is  made 
to  another  color,  a  multiplier  motion  is  used.  This  motion  is  of  much 
value,  as  considerable  time  is  saved  in  building  box  chains,  in  space 
occupied,  and  in  cost  of  chains.  When  a  multiplier  motion  is  used  the  box 
chain  is  considerably  reduced,  for  example:  If  24  picks  of  a  color  had  to 
be  inserted  in  the  fabric,  12  bars  would  be  required  in  box  chain  if  a 
multiplier  motion  is  not  used,  but  with  a  12  pick  multiplier  motion  only 
two  bars  in  the  box  chain  would  be  necessary.  With  a  24  pick  multiplier, 
only  one  bar  in  the  box  chain  would  be  required. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  multiplier  motions,  namely,  the  chain  motion 
and  the  disc  motion.  The  chain  motion  can  be  made  to  multiply  on  any 
even  number  of  picks  but  the  disc  motion  is  generally  used  to  multiply 
on  12  or  24  picks. 


Figure  41 

The  Disc  Multiplier  motion  is  used  on  Crompton  Box  Looms  and  is" 
illustrated  at  Fig.  41. 

A  disc  A  has  on  its  periphery  two  depressions.     A  ratchet  gear  is 
fastened  to  the  disc,  said  gear  having  twelve  teeth,  each  tooth  represent- 


68 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


ing  two  picks.  With  two  depressions  in  the  disc  this  will  represent  a 
twelve-pick  multiplier.  A  small  finger  B  presses  against  the  periphery 
of  the  disc,  said  finger  being  connected  to  a  lever  C,  which  is  under  a 
pin  in  the  pawl  D,  that  drives  the  box-chain  barrel.  When  the  finger 
is  in  one  of  the  depressions  in  the  disc,  the  multiplier  is  stopped  and 
the  chain  barrel  is  working,  namely,  the  chain-barrel  pawl  is  turning 
over  the  chain  barrel  one  bar  every  two  picks.  To  start  the  multiplier,  a 
riser  is  put  in  the  box  chain  under  the  multiplier  lever.  This  causes 
lever  E  to  be  lowered  and  the  pawl  F  comes  in  contact  with  the  ratchet 
gear  on  disc,  and  disc  is  turned.  The  finger  is  forced  out  of  the  de- 
pression on  disc,  as  shown  in  illustration,  which  also  raises  the  chain- 
barrel  driving  pawl  out  of  connection  and  prevents  further  movement 
of  the  box-chain  cylinder.  The  disc  will  continue  to  turn  until  finger 
drops  into  the  next  depression,  and  this  will  start  up  the  box  chain. 
From  one  depression  on  the  disc  to  the  other  represents  twelve  picks 
of  the  same  color  that  will  be  put  in  cloth  before  a  change  is  made,  so 
that  if  twenty-four  picks  of  the  same  color  are  required  in  the  cloth 
a  multiplier  riser  will  have  to  be  put  on  two  adjoining  bars  of  the  box 
chain. 

To  illustrate  the  principle  of  making  a  box  chain  when  using  multi- 
plier motion  the  following  pattern  is  given: 

Example:  A  gingham  fabric  is  required  to  be  made  with  the  follow- 
ing colors,  using  a  12-pick  multiplier;  0  picks  black,  12  picks  green.  6 
picks  black,  24  picks  red,  4  picks  white,  24  picks  red.  Fig.  42  illustrates 
the  different  arrangement  of  colors  in  boxes.  The  second  and  third  lines 
give  the  best  arrangement,  as  there  are  no  skips  whatever  in  these.  The 
box  chain  is  also  illustrated  at  Fig.  42  using  the  seciind  time.  X  represents 
risers  or  balls,  empty  squares  represent  sinkers  or  tubes.  S  indicates 
single  lever  to  raise  one  box.  C  indicates  crank  to  raise  two  boxes.  M 
indicates  multiplier  lever. 

Fig.  43  shows  the  complete  box  chain  as  it  would  be  made  for  the 
loom. 

STILL  BOX  ^lOTION 

This  motion  is  also  called  the  Head  Release  Motion  and  is  indispen- 
sable to  the  box  loom.  Its  purpose  is  to  prevent  broken  patterns,  that  is, 
if  the  filling  breaks,  the  chain  barrel  is  not  pushed  forward  and  the 
loom  can  therefore  be  started  up  without  making  a  mis-pattern.    There 


Fil^c^  L 

1 

3 

^ 

'  L    P,^ks 

C  ,-  F-tT  l-t 

z 

4 

/ 

/Z 

f=ilc,<.  k 

1 

3 

^ 

-  L 

R^H 

3 

z. 

3 

•2.4-       - 

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4 

1 

-f 

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R.rJ 

L.3. 

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•-z^ 

/\sc 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

X 

ft. 

X 

X 

X 

>. 

/. 

X 

X 

•< 

yi 

— 

1 

D      L 

•Slot 

Figure  42 


Figure  45 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


69 


3rd  Box  Black— 2  picks 


5rd  Box  Black — 2  picks 


3rd  Box  Black— 2  picks 


4th  Box  Green — 12  picks 


3rd  Box  Black— 2  picks 


3rd  Box  Black— 2  picks 


3rd  Box  Black— 2  picks 


2nd  Box  Rod — 12  picks. 


2nd  Box  Red — 12  picks. 


1st  Box  White — 2  picks 


1st  Box  White— 2  picks 


2nd  Box  Rod — 12  picks 


2nd  Box  Red— 12  picks 


M5  C 

I     I    I 


0= 


DO 


I       1 


[       I 


H    I 


!i 


Figure  43 


70 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


are  several  makes  of  this  motion,  one  being  illustrated  at  Fig.  44.  A 
double  cam  A  is  fixed  on  the  pick  cam  shaft.  This  cam  revolves  between 
the  two  levers  B  and  C,  which  are  pivoted  at  D.  A  locking  lever  E  is 
mounted  on  a  stud  on  the  upper  lever  B  at  G,  said  lever  E  locking  with 
arm  E',  mounted  on  stud  F  in  lower  lever  C.  A  catch  slide  H  is  attached 
to  the  top  end  of  the  locking  lever  E.  The  cylinder  connecting  rod  J  is 
attached  to  the  lower  end  of  the  cylinder  lever  C.  The  catch  slide  works 
forward  and  backward  through  a  slotted  sliding  bar  K,  which  is  sup- 
ported by  a  bracket  to  the  side  of  loom.  The  slotted  bar  is  illustrated" 
in  Fig.  45. 


^h-M 


u 


Figure  44 

Operation  of  Motion. — A  rod  extends  the  full  width  of  breast  beam. 
On  one  end  of  the  rod  a  finger  is  attached  which  is  in  contact  with  the 
filling  fork  slide,  and  on  the  other  end  of  rod  the  finger  L  is  attached. 
When  loom  is  running,  the  cam  A  revolves  with  the  shaft,  the  larger  of 
the  two  surfaces  operating  under  top  lever  B.     The  two  levers,  B  and 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  71 

C,  are  held  togetlier  through  the  comhined  action  of  the  spring  and 
locking  lever,  so  that  when  top  lever  is  raised  the  bottom  lever  is  also 
raised.  The  cylinder  connecting  rod  J  is  therefore  raised,  which  forces 
over  the  chain  barrel  through  pawl  D,  Fig.  41,  page  67 — and  at  the  same 
time  gives  a  forward  movement  to  the  catch  slide  H,  which  passes  through 
the  slot  in  sliding  bar.  The  small  cam  will  (h-aw  back  the  levers.  When 
filling  breaks,  the  fdling  fork  slide  forces  back  the  hnger  which  is  in 
contact  with  it,  and  this  raises  finger  L,  at  the  same  time  raising  the 
slotted  sliding  bar  K.  As  the  catch  slide  H  comes  in  contact  with  the 
bottom  of  slot  the  forward  movement  is  stopped.  This  forces  back 
locking  lever  E  and  causes  the  lever  to  turn  on  its  pivotal  support  G; 
against  the  action  of  the  spring,  allowing  the  arm  B  to  be  raised  by  the 
movement  of  cam  while  the  arm  C  remains  stationary,  and  the  action 
of  connecting  arm  J  on  the  chain  barrel  is  immediately  arrested. 

Timing  of  Still  Box  Motion.— With  lay  on  front  center  and  shuttle 
in  single  box  end,  the  cam  should  begin  to  move  forward  the  catch  slide 
H. 

Breakage  Preventors 

The  breakage  preventer  in  the  box  motion  consists  of  a  spring  bolt 
which  holds  the  top  of  the  sliding  finger  shaft  box  in  position.  This  is  a 
spring  on  an  ordinary  bolt  and  is  of  sufficient  strength  to  keep  the  top 
of  box  in  position  when  everything  is  in  good  working  order.  The  empty 
spaces  of  the  star  gear  and  small  segment  gears  should  be  directly  oppo- 
site each  other,  so  that  the  large  gear  can  revolve  without  coming  in  con- 
tact with  the  small  gear,  but  if  from  any  cause  the  small  gear  should  be 
turned  over  so  that  the  large  gear  connects  when  it  ought  not  to,  the  top 
of  the  sliding  finger  shaft  box  will  be  forced  up,  and  this  will  prevent  the 
breaking  of  teeth  in  gears  and  also  the  top  of  the  sliding  finger  shaft  box 
from  being  broken. 

The  small  gear  turning  over  farther  than  it  ought  to  is  often  caused 
by  a  weak  spring  on  the  spring  lever.  On  the  back  of  each  cam  are  four 
projecting  pins  and  a  spring  lever  is  held  on  two  of  the  pins,  which,  if 
of  sufficient  strength,  will  prevent  the  cam  from  moving  out  of  position 
after  being  changed,  but  if  the  spring  is  weak  the  small  gear  will  partly, 
tuin  over  and  be  caught  by  star  gear.  Spring  lever  is  shown  at  K,  Fig. 
39,  page  64. 

Another  breakage  preventor  is  in  the  form  of  a  spring  clamp.  The 
stud  in  end  of  lifting  rod  D,  Fig.  39,  by  which  the  boxes  are  raised  and 
lowered,  is  held  by  a  spring  clamp.  Fig.  46  illustrates  an  end  view  of 
the  boxes  and  sprmg  clamp  with  the  stud  in  clamp  marked  A.  If  the 
shuttle  should  be  trapped  between  lay  sole  and  boxes  as  boxes  are  being 
laised  or  lowered,  the  stud  will  be  forced  out  of  its  position  and  no  dam- 
age will  be  done  to  either  shuttle  or  shuttle  boxes.  This  figure  also 
illustrates  the  shuttle  trapped  between  shuttle  box  and  lay  sole  as  box  is 
being  lowered.  It  will  readily  be  seen  that  unless  the  stud  was  forced  out 
of  position  either  the  shuttle  or  shuttle  box  would  be  broken.  If  the 
picker  or  anything  else  should  get  stuck  in  box(\s  the  same  thing  will 
occur. 

Shuttle  Cheek  Cam 

On  some  box  looms  a  shuttle  check  cam  is  used.  This  is  a  small  cam 
about  three  inches  in  length  and  extends  about  one-half  inch  beyond  the 
surface  of  the  pick  cam  on  the  drop  box  side  of  th(>  loom.  When  crank 
is  on  back  center  the  pick  cone  should  be  in  center  of  cam  and  the  lug 
straps  set  to  hold  the  picker  stick  not  more  than  one  inch  on  the  spindle. 


72 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


CHAPTER  XX 

GINGHAM  LOOM  FIXING  POINTS 

Shuttles, — All  shuttles  must  be  as  near  the  same  size,  shape  and 
weight  as  it  is  possible  to  get  them  or  good  results  cannot  be  obtained. 
The  single  box  has  to  be  fitted  to  all  the  shuttles,  and  if  one  shuttle  is 
verv  much  different  from  the  others  there  will  be  trouble  in  running 
same.  The  shuttles  should  not  be  too  large  or  they  will  chip  through 
striking  the  mouthpiece  of  the  box.  Neither  should  they  be  too  small  or 
the  picker  race  will  cut  the  shuttle  at  the  top. 


Figure  46 

Buidei's. — The  binders  should  be  bent  to  grij)  the  shuttle  about  half- 
way, also  to  give  a  gi'itduiil  check  to  the  shuttle  as  it  enters  the  box.  The 
flat  end  of  binder  should  iiol  be  set  full  against  the  box.  as  there  is  always 


Figure  47 

more  or  less  loose  filling  when  shuttle  is  leaving  the  box,  and  if  the  end 
is  full  against  the  box  there  is  a  tendency  to  cut  the  fdling.  It  is  only 
necessary  to  have  the  extreme  end  of  binder  against  the  box. 

This  is  illustrated  at  Fig.  47.  A  shows  how  the  end  of  binder  is 
against  the  mouthpiece  of  box.  B  shows  the  end  of  binder  flat  against 
the  mouthpiece  of  box.  Arrow  indicates  where  fdling  will  get  between 
binder  and  mouthpiece  of  box. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


73 


Sharp  Edges  in  Boxes. — In  sUirling  up  a  now  set  of  boxes  it  is  advis- 
able to  take  oir  all  sharp  (>(lges  with  a  very  line  file.  The  groove  in  swell 
must  be  perfecUy  smooth,  as  any  sharp  edges  will  cut  the  filling.  The 
sharp  edges  of  picker  race  should  l)e  taken  off  or  shuttle  will  be  cut. 


FIflui'e  is 

Shuttles  VVorkiiuj  Loose  in  Box. — WIumi  laigp  patterns  are  made  in 
which  a  shuttle  is  used  only  occasionally,  IIkm'c  is  a  tendency  for*  this 
shuttle  to  work  forward  in  Ihe  l)(»x  with  the  result  that  when  shuttle  is 
picked  across  the  lay  the  loom  will  bang  off.  To  overcome  this  the  swell 
should  grip  the  shuttle  about  half-way  and  shuttle  should  be  held  tirmly 
in  box,  but  not  too  tight.  The  boxes  should  work  freely  in  the  slides, 
but  should  not  be  loose  oi'  they  will  swing  about  and  this  has  a  tendency 
to  cause  the  shuttle  to  gradually  move  to  the  front  of  box.  The  picking 
motion  must  also  be  set  to  give  an  easy  pick. 

Putthui  on  New  Pieker. — \\'lien  a  new  picker  is  put  on  it  must  be 
perfectly  true.  If  warped  in  any  way,  good  results  cannot  be  obtained 
from  it.  The  pickiM'  must  work  free  on  spindle  and  in  the  i)icker  race. 
A  small  hole  is  often  made  in  tln^  picker  where  the  shuttle  strikes.  A 
good  hunter  sliould  always  be  kept  on  the  spindle,  as  this  saves  the 
picker  and  stud  from  the  Jar  that  would  otherwise  be  given  when  picker 
strikes  the  spindle  stud.  Bunters  are  made  in  different  ways,  but  a 
serviceable  one  is  made  from  a  strip  of  leather  with  spindle  holes  cut  in 


74  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

it  about  two  and  one-half  or  three  inches  apart.    A  leather  washer  can 
also  be  put  on  the  spindle  between  the  holes. 

Guide  Plate. — Fig.  48  illustrates  the  setting  of  picker  to  guide  plate. 
When  the  picker  is  at  the  back  end  of  box,  the  face  of  picker  should  be 
flush  with  the  guide  plate.  This  is  shown  at  A  and  this  setting  allows 
the  shuttle  boxes  to  change  without  in  any  way  affecting  the  shuttle. 

If  the  face  of  picker  is  not  flush  with  guide  plate,  but  is  too  far  back 
in  box  the  shuttle  will  also  be  too  far  back  and  when  boxes  arc  changing, 
the  tip  of  shuttle  will  strike  the  guide  plate.  This  will  cause  the  shuttle 
tip  to  become  flat  on  the  end.  It  will  also  cause  the  guide  plate  to  be 
worn.  The  boxes  are  also  apt  to  skip  and  sometimes  cause  a  smash. 
This  is  illustrated  at  B. 

When  the  face  of  picker  is  too  far  out  in  the  box  the  back  end  of 
shuttle  will  be  caught  on  the  picker  when  boxes  are  being  raised  or 
lowered.  This  will  also  cause  the  boxes  to  skip  and  shuttle  to  fly  out 
or  cause  a  smash.    This  setting  is  illustrated  at  C. 

A  buffer  is  used  on  the  back  end  of  spindle  and  also  in  the  back  end 
of  box,  and  by  regulating  this,  the  face  of  the  picker  can  be  made  flush 
with  the  guide  plate.  These  buffers  also  reduce  the  jar  when  the  shuttle 
strikes  the  picker.  The  buffer  in  the  back  end  of  box  can  be  made  from 
cloth  in  the  form  of  a  roll,  or  can  be  made  of  leather. 

Setting  the  Boxes. — The  boxes  must  be  set  so  that  the  bottom  of  each 
box  will  be  level  with  race  plate.  If  this  is  not  done  there  will  be  con- 
siderable trouble  with  shuttles  chipping  and  also  flying  out. 

The  first  or  top  box  is  adjusted  by  set  nuts  at  the  bottom  of  lifting 
rod.  The  second  box  is  adjusted  by  the  stud  in  slot  at  front  end  of 
lifting  lever.  The  third  and  fourth  boxes  are  adjusted  by  the  stud  in  slot 
at  back  end  of  lifting  lever,  also  by  crank  E,  Fig.  39,  page  64. 

No  positive  rule  can  be  given  to  set  the  boxes.  Each  box  has  (n  be 
set  separately,  beginning  with  the  top  box.  If,  in  changing  from  one  box 
to  another,  the  boxes  do  not  come  level  with  the  race  plate  after  setting 
first  box,  the  leverage  is  not  equally  divided.  By  moving  the  studs  in 
slot  of  lifting  lever  backward  or  forward  according  to  whether  the  boxes 
are  too  high  or  too  low,  the  right  leverage  will  be  obtained.  Any  change 
in  either  of  the  studs  will  correspondingly  change  the  position  of  boxes. 

To  illustrate  the  difference  in  leverage  when  raising  the  boxes  refer 
to  Fig.  39.  When  a  change  is  made  from  first  to  second  box  the  single 
box  cam  C  is  turned.  This  brings  the  largest  part  of  cam  on  top  with 
the  fulcrum  of  lifting  lever  at  the  back  end  of  lever.  To  change  from 
first  to  third  box  the  crank  E  is  turned.  This  brings  the  fulcrum  of 
lifting  lever  on  the  single  box  cam  with  the  cam  in  its  normal  position, 
that  is  the  largest  part  of  cam  at  bottom.  To  change  from  first  to  fourth 
box  both  cam  and  crank  have  to  be  furned.  This  will  change  the  position 
of  the  fulcrum  on  lifting  lever.  From  this  it  will  be  seen  that  as  the 
position  of  the  fulcrum  changes  there  can  be  no  hard  and  fast  rules  given 
to  set  the  boxes,  but  judgment  must  be  used  in  setting  them.  The  boxes 
must  either  by  perfectly  level,  or  the  back  end  elevated  a  trifle  with  the 
front  end  level  with  the  race  plate.  Under  no  circumstances  must  the 
back  end  of  the  box  be  lower  than  the  front  end. 

Boxes  Skipping. — If  the  links  on  chain  are  not  set  right  the  chain 
will  have  a  tendency  to  bind.  The  link  should  be  put  on  the  bars  so  as 
to  have  them  alternate;  that  is,  one  outside  and  the  next  inside,  on  both 
sides  of  the  chain  to  correspond.  Fig.  43,  page  69,  illustrates  this  method 
of  putting  on  the  links.  Short  or  bent  links  will  cause  the  chain  to  ride 
on  the  barrel,  instead  of  dropping  in  the  notches.  Double-sliding  finger 
not  working  freely  will  cause  the  boxes  to  skip.  It  is  necessary  that  this 
finger  be  kept  w-ell  oiled,  in  fact,  the  whole  motion  must  be  kept  well 
lubricated. 


mST-' 


Practical  Loom  Fix 

CHAPTER  XXI 
DOBBY  LOOM 

Fancy  fabrics  are  made  on  the  dobby  loom.  This  loom  is  constructed 
on  the  same  principle  as  the  plain  and  gingham  loom  but  two  points  must 
be  given  careful  consideration  if  the  best  results  are  to  be  obtained. 

First:  It  is  necessary  that  there  be  sufficient  space  between  the 
crank  shaft  and  the  lay  when  crank  is  on  back  center.  If  the  space  is  not 
sufficient,  the  lay  will  strike  the  harness  when  the  crank  is  at  the  back 
end  of  the  stroke  with  the  following  results: 

L  Harness  will  be  moving  back  at  the  same  time  they  are  being 
raised  or  lowered  causing  chafing  of  the  ends. 

2.    Harness  shafts  will  strike  each  other,  also  catch  on  each  other  as 
they  are  being  raised  and  lowered  which  often  causes  smashes. 

3.  If  twine  is  used  to  connect  harness  shafts  with  the  harness  cords, 
the  twine  will  jump  out  of  connection  with  the  harness  hooks  making 
miss-picks  and  smashes. 

There  are  four  causes  for  the  loom  not  having  sufficient  space  for 
the  harness  shafts: 

1.  Capacity  of  dobby  too  large  for  the  loom,  that  is  too  many  harness 
shafts. 

2.  Harness  shafts  too  thick,  thereby  taking  up  too  much  space. 

3.  Crank  arm  too  short,  or  space  from  crank  shaft  to  back  of  lay 
insufficient. 

4.  Crank  too  thick  or  too  heavy.  This  often  prevents  the  use  of  the 
full  width  of  harness  t©  the  capacity  of  the  dobby. 

Second:     Many  dobby  looms  have  not  sufficient  depth  of  loom  sides. 


Ja  t  /^ 


K^ 


Figure  49 


consequently  only  a  short  space  is  allowed  between  whip  roll  and  harness- 
shafts.  A  deep  loom  side  gives  a  longer  stretch  to  the  threads,  also  a 
longer  length  of  yarn  is  exposed,  consequently  the  yarn  receives  the  full 
benefit  of  the  moist  atmosphere  derived  from'  the  use  of  humidifiers.  In 
connection  with  the  longer  stretch  of  yarn,  the  best  results  are  obtained 
when  a  large  whip  roll  is  used,  about  four  inches  in  diameter.    In  fact,  a 


76  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

large  whip  roll  is  preferable  on  all  looms  rather  than  a  small  one.  The 
small  whip  roll  causes  too  much  strain  on  the  yarn  as  it  passes  over  the 
roll. 

DOBBY  HE.\D  MOTION 

Two  kinds  of  dobbies  used,  in.  cotton  mills  are  known  as  single  action 
dobby  and  double  action  dobby.  The  single  action  has  a  closed  shed,  but 
"the  double  action  has  an  open  shed^^  In  a  single  action,  the  harness  re- 
tiirns  to  the  bottom  of  the  shed  every  pick.  These  machines  are  not  used 
very  extensively,  but  where  they  are  used,  fancy  lenos  are  generally 
made  on  them.  This  dobby  has  several  disadvantages,  the  principal  one 
is  that  the  loom  cannot  run  very  fast  because  of  the  time  required  to 
change  the  harness  from  one  pick  to  another.  Another  disadvantage  is 
that  the  fdling  has  to  be  beaten  up  into  the  cloth  in  a  closed  shed.  The 
dobby  that  is  most  extensively  used  at  the  present  time  is  the  double 
action  dobby.  This  dobby  is  often  referred  to  as  double  index  or  single 
index  dobby.  The  working  parts  of  both  are  practically  the  same,  the 
actual  difference  between  them  will  be  explained  under  separate  headings. 

DOUBLE  INDEX  DOBBY 

A  sketch  of  the  working  parts  of  a  double  index  dobby  is  given  at 
Fig.  49.  The  following  are  the  names  given  to  the  different  parts:  A, 
harness  lever,  B,  Bl  are  the  jack  hooks.  C,  jack.  D,  connection  of  jack 
with  harness  lever.  E,  needles.  F,  rod  which  passes  through  all  the 
harness  levers.  G,  rod  on  which  the  ends  of  all  the  harness  levers  work. 
H,  HI,  knives.  J,  Jl,  index  fingers.  K,  rod  which  passes  through  all  the 
index  fingers.  L,  chain  barrel.  The  harness  lever  A  has  a  number  of 
notches  on  the  top.  These  notches  are  for  the  purpose  of  regulating  the 
lift  on  the  harness  shafts.  Each  harness  shaft  is  connected  to  a  harness 
lever  by  a  wire  loop  and  harness  strap.  The  loop  is  put  in  one  of  the 
notches.  ror_front  harness  shafts  the  loops  are  put  in  notches  near  the 
boltom_and  are  stepped  higher  in  the  notches  for  back  harness.  The 
reason  for  This  being  that  the  back  harness  shafts  have  to  travel  a  greater 
distance  than  the  front  harness  shafts  in  order  to  make  the  same  size  of 
shed.  Rod  F,  which  passes  through  all  the  harness  levers,  is  fixed  out- 
side the  frame  of  dobby.  Its  purpose  is  to  keep  the  harness  levers  in 
contact  with  the  rod  G,  and  also  to  prevent  the  bottom  of  the  levers 
from  jumping  when  levers  are  being  raised.  The  index  finger  J  is  in 
contact  with  the  top  jack  B  through  the  heedle  E,  but  the  finger  Jl  is 
directly  in  contact  with  the  bottom  jack  hook  Bl. 

SINGLE  INDEX  DOBBY 

A  sketch  of  the  working  parts  of  a  single  index  dobby  is  given  at 
Fig.  50.  In  comparing  this  sketch  with  Fig.  49  it  will  be  seen  that  the 
only  difference  between  them  is  in  the  method  of  operating  the  jack 
hooks  through  the  index  fingers.  In  this  dobby  one  index  finger  operates 
two  jack  hooks,  the  bottom  jack  hook  by  being  directly  in  contact  with 
the  finger  and  the  top  jack  hook  in  contact  through  tlie  needle  E.  The 
top  of  the  needle  is  directly  under  top  jack  hook  and  the  bottom  of  the 
needle  fits  into  a  small  groove  at  the  end  of  the  index  finger,  so  that 
when  the  finger  is  raised  both  hooks  are  lowered  at  the  same  time,  and 
one  of  them  will  be  caught  on  the  knife  that  is  moving  outward  on  that 
pick.  Stated  briefly,  the  distinctive  difference  between  the  two  dobbies 
is  as  follows:  In_a  sjngle  index  dobby,  .one  index  finger  operates  liotli 
top  and  bottom  jack  hooks.  The  chain  bar  is  turned  over  every  pick, 
as  each  bar  represent  only  one  pick.  In  a  double  index  dobby,  one  index 
finger  is  required  for  every  jack  hook.  The  chain  bar  is  turned  over 
once  i3n  every  two  picks  as  each  bar  represents  two  picks.  There  are 
twice  as  many  index  fingers  in  a  double  index  dobby  as  there  are  in  a 
single  index  dobby. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


77 


OPERATING  DOUBLE  INDEX  DOBBY 

In  operating  the  dobby,  the  knives  H,  HI  arc  connected  at  each  end 
by  a  knife  hook  to  a  rocking  arm.  The  knife  hooks  are  threaded  on  the 
end  so  that  the  knives  can  be  set  in  different  positions.  Figure  51  sliows 
the  knives  connected  to  the  rocking  arm  by  tlie  knife  tiooks.  Ttie  rocking 
arms  are  fulcrumed  in  the  center,  and  as  one  knife  is  coming  forward 
the  other  is  returning.  To  raise  the  harness  shaft  a  peg  is  put  in  a  bar 
in  the  chain.  The  chain  is  put  on  the  chain  barrel  L,  and  the  peg  comes 
in  contact  witli  an  index  finger.  If  a  peg  is  put  under  the  index  finger  J' 
the  opposite  end  of  the  finger  is  lowered,  because  the  rod  K  acts  as  a 
fulcrum  for  the  fingers.  This  lowers  the  jack  hook  so  that  when  the 
knife  comes  forward,  the  catch  on  the  hook  is  caught  on  the  knife  and 
the  harness  lever  and  harness  shalt  are  raised.  This  is  clearly  seen  in 
Fig.  49.  A  peg  is  placed  in  the  chain  bar  under  the  index  finger  J',  which 
lowers  the  top  jack  hook  over  the  knife  H.  As  the  knife  comes  forward, 
iT'catches  the  hook  and  pulls  the  jack  and  harness  lever  to  position 
indicated  by  dotted  lines.  In  many  dobbies  the  rocking  arms  are  of 
different  sizes.  The  front  rocking  arm  is  smaller  than  the  one  at  the 
back.    This  is  to  allow  greater  leverage  on  the  back  harness. 


Figure  50 

Driving  Dobby. — The  dobby  can  be  driven  either  from  the  crank 
shaft  or  pick  cam  shaft.  When  driven  from  pick  cam  shaft  a  driving 
rod  is  connected  from  rocking  arm  in  dobby  to  a  crank  setscrewed  on 
end  of  bottom  shaft.  On  this  drive  a  pawl  is  always  used  to  turn  over 
the  chain  barrel.  When  the  dobby  is  driven  from  crank  shaft  the  rock- 
ing arm  is  connected  by  a  driving  rod  to  a  gear,  which  receives  motion 
from  gear  on  crank  shaft  of  half  the  number  of  teeth,  so  that  two  revo- 
lutions of  gear  on  crank  shaft  are  required  to  make  the  inward  and 
outward  movement  of  knives  in  dobby. 


j\ 


78  Practical  Loom  Fixing  • 

Driving  Chain  Barrel. — There  are  two  distinct  metliods  of  driving 
chain  barrel:  First,  by  pawl  fixed  on  front  rocking  arm.  Second,  by 
worm  and  worm  gear.  In  the  first  method  a  ratchet  gear  is  setscrewed 
on  the  front  end  of  chain  barrel  shaft.  This  gear  is  pulled  over  by  the 
pawl  fixed  to  a  stud  in  the  lower  portion  of  front  rocking  arm.  The 
pawl  pulls  over  the  chain  barrel  when  the  lower  portion  of  rocking  arm 
is  on  its  inward  movement,  so  that  when  this  driver  is  used  each  bar 
in  chain  represents  two  picks.  The  distance  chain  barrel  is  turned,  can 
be  regulated  by  raising  or  lowering  pawl  stud  in  slot  of  rocking  arm. 
When  stud  is  raised  leverage  is  decreased,  but  when  lowered,  leverage 
is  increased.  When  a  change  is  made  in  either  case  a  corresponding 
change  has  often  to  be  made  with  the  ratchet  gear. 

The  second  method  of  driving  is  used  on  both  single  and  double 
index  dobbies,  generally  on  single  index.  In  this  method  motion  is  im- 
parted to  the  chain  barrel  from  the  crank  shaft.  One  arrangement  for 
single  index  is  as  follows:  A  gear  of  30  teeth  on  crank  shaft  meshes  in 
another  gear  of  60  teeth.  This  latter  gear  is  setscrewed  to  an  horizontal 
shaft  that  carries  a  small  bevel  gear  on  the  opposite  end,  which  meshes 
into  another  bevel  gear  fixed  on  a  vertical  shaft.  At  the  top  of  the 
vertical  shaft  a  worm  is  attached  which  drives  the  worm  gear  on  chain 
barrel  shaft.  Other  methods  of  driving  are  used,  one  of  which  is  the 
use  of  a  chain  connecting  crank  shaft  to  another  small  shaft  that  carries 
the  worm  gear  which  drives  the  chain  barrel.  In  all  cases  care  is  re- 
quired in  setting  the  motion  so  as  to  get  the  correct  timing. 

Setting  Dobby  on  Loom.— To  set  a  dobfiy  on  a  loom  there  are  a  few 
points  that  will  require  to  be  taken  notice  of.  Adjust  the  position  of  the 
cord  rollers  or  sheaves  so  that  the  harness  shafts  will  be  suspended  an 
equal  distance  from  each  side  of  the  loom.  Have  the  front  cord  roller 
adjusted  so  that  the  front  harness  will  be  from  one-half  to  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  behind  lay  cap  when  crank  is  on  back  center.  Set  the  spring 
blocks  on  the  floor  in  a  line  with  the  roller  cords.  This  can  be  obt<iined 
by  dropping  a  plumb  from  the  rollers  at  the  sides  on  which  the  cords 
work.  The  point  thus  found  will  be  the  center  of  spring  block.  Harness 
hooks  can  be  put  in  harness  shafts  to  correspond  with  plumb  line. 

Starting  Up  Dobbies. — When  starting  up  a  new  dobby  the  harness 
levers  will  have  to  be  adjusted  so  that  they  will  work  free  and  easy.  The 
levers  can  be  adjusted  by  set-nuts  on  each  side  of  the  frame.  Dobby  is 
generally  run  before  connecting  up  the  harness  straps,  and  in  running, 
the  levers  should  drop  of  their  own  weight.  Every  working  part  will 
require  a  good  oiling.  In  a  double  index  dobby  with  a  worm  gear  drive 
for  chain  barrel,  connection  between  driving  of  dobby  and  chain  barrel 
will  have  to  be  specially  noticed,  so  that  both  can  be  set  together  on  the 
same  pick.  To  illustrate:  The  dobbv  can  be  set  so  as  to  have  either 
the  top  or  bottom  knife  coming  outward  on  the  first  pick.  If  the  first 
row  of  pegs  m  the  chain  govern  the  top  set  of  jack  hooks,  the  driver 
will  have  to  be  set  so  that  the  top  knife  will  come  out  on  first  pick.  If 
driving  is  set  so  as  to  have  bottom  knife  coming  outward  on  first  pick, 
^a  broken  up  pattern  will  result,  because  the  second  row  of  pegs,  wBich 
IS  the  second  pick,  governs  the  bottom  jack  hooks,  and  this  will  cause 
)  the  harness  that  ought  to  be  raised  for  second  pick  to  be  raised  for  firs 
I  pick.  The  picks  will  be  put  in  the  pattern  as  follows:  Second,  first, 
j  fourth,  third,  sixth,  fifth,  and  so  on,  which  gives  a  ragged  appearance  to 
\  the  pattern. 

Obtaining  the  Size  of  Shed.— The  size  of  shed  required  on  a  dobby 
is  just  sufficient  to  allow  the  shuttle  to  pass  through  without  chafing  the  \ 
yarn.     The  shed  can  be  regulated  generally  in   three  different  places:    > 
.First,  driving  crank.    Second,  rocking  arm.    Third,  knife  hooks.    On  some    ' 
dobbies  the  size  of  shed  can  only  be  regulated  at  the  driving  crank  and 
knife  hook.     In  both   cases   the   required   adjustment  can   generally  be 
made.    First  have  the  harness  shafts  strung  up  to  harness  straps,  with 


»  Practical  Loom  Fixing  79 

the  springs  attached  undcnu^ath.  Keep  the  yarn  tight  when  tied  to  the 
apron  and  liave  the  yarn  just  resting  on  the  race  phite.  The  reason  for 
having  the  yarn  just  resting  on  the  race  phite  is  that  when  tilling  is 
beaten  into  the  cloth  tlie  bottom  siuul  is  raised  up  a  tritle.  Have  the 
harness  shafts  level  at  both  ends  with  the  back  harness  shafts  a  little 
lower  than  the  front.  Tills  is  sometimes  called  an  angular  shed  and  is 
obtained  by  the  harness  l(>vers  coming  in  fai'ther  at  the  back,  in  other 
cases  by  increasing  tiie  length  of  the  harness  straps.  Set  the  lower  stud 
of  driving  arm  about  half  way  in  the  slot  of  the  driving  crank  and  the 
top  stud  of  connecting  arm  also  about  half  way  in  the  slot.  The  rocking 
arm  should  be  vertical  when  the  driving  crank  is  on  front  or  back  center 
and  the  loom  crank  shaft  past  bottom  center.  When  the  driving  crank 
is  on  top  center,  set  the  top  knife  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  behind  the 
catch  on  jack  hooks.  When  the  driving  crank  is  on  bottom  center  set  the 
bottom  knife  the^same  distance  behind  the  catch  on  jack  hooks.  This 
adjustment  is  macle  by  set  nuts  on  the  knife  hooks.  If  this  setting  does 
not  give  the  correct  size  of  shed  the  sweep  will  have  to  bo  adjusted  at 
either  the  driving  crank  or  rocking  arm.  The  object  of  setting  the  stud 
about  half  way  in  the  slot  is  because  that  position  gives  a  medium  sweep 
of  knives.  Uf  the  shed  is  foimd  to  he  too  ^maJLiJie  connecting  stud  will 
be  bxQUgllt  to  the  outer  eficl  of  i^iot  In  dirvlng  cranky  This  will  give  a 
Farger  sweep,  therefore  a  h'lrg^r  shed,  but  in  conseqilence  of  this  larger 
sweep,  when  the  driving  crank  is  on  top  and  bottom  centers  the  knives 
will  be  too  far  behind  the  catch  on  jack  hooks.  It  is  also  possible  that 
this  change  of  sweep  may  pull  the  knives  too  far  back,  so  that  they  will 
strike  the  back  end  of  the  knife  slide.  In  either  case  the  knives  will  have 
to  be  re-adjusted  by  the  set  nuts  on  knife  hooks.  If  the  shed  is  too  large 
and  a  smaller  shed  is  made  it  is  jiossible  that  the  knives  may  not  get 
back  of  the  catches  on  jack  hooks,  an^will  have  to  be  re-adjusted  in  just 
the  opposite  way  to  the  former. 

Fig.  51  illustrates  the  thr^e  positions  where  adjustment  in  size  of 
shed  can  be  made,  indicated  by  figures  1,  2,  3. 

Pattern  Chain  Pejiflhuj. — In  i)egging  chains,  two  items  have  to  be  taken 
into  consideration:  First,  whether  loom  is  right  or  left-hand.  Second, 
the  direction  chain  barrel  revolves.  It  is  necessary  that  these  two  items 
be  known,  especially  the  first,  for  the  following  reason:  If  loom  is  right- 
hand,  the  dobby  will  be  on  left-hand  side;  but  if  loom  is  left-hand,  dobby 
will  be  on  right-hand  side.  If  chain  has  been  pegged  for  dobby  on  right- 
hand  loom  it  will  not  work  on  a  dobby  on  left-hand  loom  unless  turned 
round  and  last  bar  used  for  first.  On  some  patterns  this  does  not  make 
much  difference,  but  on  others  it  does.  It  is  advisable  to  have  one  system 
and  adhere  to  it,  namely,  always  begin  with  first  harness  on  one  side  for 
all  chain  plans  made.  If  this  is  done  the  chain  can  be -made  from  chain 
plan  witli  simple  instructions. 

To  illustrate:  Have  first  harness  shaft  on  right-hand  side;  also  have 
first  pick  in  chain  plan  on  top.  On  a  right-hand  loom,  chain  will  be 
pegged  from  right  to  left,  reading  from  first  harness.  On  a  left-hand 
loom,  chain  will  be  pegged  from  left  to  right,  reading  from  first  harness. 
If  this  system  is  used  it  is  only  necessary  to  state  whether  loom  is  right 
or  left-hand.  These  instructions  are  for  chain  barrel  revolving  inward 
towards  the  loom.  For  an  outward  revolving  chain  barrel,  it  will  be 
necessai'y  to  state  this  in  giving  instructions,  as  R.  H.  out,  and  chain  will 
be  pegged  opposite  to  inward  revolving  chain  barrel. 

Requirements  of  a  Good  Doljby. — The  dobby  that  is  the  simplest  in 
its  construction  where  the  different  parts  can  be  taken  out  easily  to  be 
reixiired  will  be  the  best  to  use,  everything  else  being  equal.  All  the 
different  i)arts  of  the  dobby  should  be  made  in  their  right  proportion. 
The  index  finger,  hooks,  needles,  should  all  work  free  with  each  other. 
Especial  notice  should  be  taken  of  the  index  fingers.  See  that  these 
fingers  are  cast  straight  and  smooth,  otherwise   they  will   rub   against 


80 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


each  (ifher  and  miss-picks  will  result.  This  occurs  occarionallv  in  a 
double  index  dobby.  When  this  is  the  case  the  fingers  will  have  tn  be 
taken  out  and  finished  off  on  the  emery  wheel  to  take  all  the  rough 
places  off  them.    A  dobby  that  will  require  all  this  work  doing  to  it  when 


4' 


Figure  51 


new  is  certainly  not  the  dobby  to  select.  Another  requirement  is  thai 
the  dobby  be  of  the  right  capacity  with  the  loom,  that  is.  if  the  loom  is 
only  adapted  for  a  twelve  harness  dobby.  it  certainly  is  not  wise  to  put 
on  the  loom  a  twenty  or  twenty-four  harness  dobby.  If  this  is  done, 
every  time  the  lay  goes  back  it  will  strike  the  harness  shafts  and  cause 
them  to  vibrate.  This  will  result  in  poor  weaving,  the  harness  shafts 
will  be  continually  catching  on  each  other  and  making  miss-picks  and 
smashes,  also  if  the  harness  straps  are  not  securely  fastened  to  the  hooks, 
the  shafts  will  be  continually  dropping  and  making  smashes.  To  use  a 
dobby  of  a  capacity  of  twenty  to  twenty-four  harness  shafts  there  should 
be  at  least  ten  inches  between  lay  and  crank  shaft  when  lay  is  on  back 
center.  This  is  alhiwing  the  harness  shafts  to  be  about  three-eights  of 
an  inch  thick. 

PREP.\RATIO\  OF  IL\RNESS  SH.\FTS 

In  preparing. harness  shafts  there  are  several  small  details  which  if 
properly  attended  to  will  help  very  materially  the  production  and  quality 
of  cloth.    These  details  can  be  enumerated  as  follows: 

Do  not  allow  the  heddles  to  get  rusty.  Rub  heddle  rods  evenly  with 
tallow  or  oil.  or  a  mixture  of  .tallow  aiul  oil.  This  allows  the  heddles  to 
slide  free  on  the  rods.  Put  all  heddles  on  shaft  the  same,  that  is  do  not 
put  on  some  heddles  with  twisted  ends  on  top  and  other  heddles  on  same 
shaft  with  twisted  ends  at  bottom.  Have  the  twisted  ends  of  the  heddles 
on  all  shafts  the  same,  that  is,  have  all  on  fop  or  all  on  bottom.  Have 
only  one  counts  of  heddles  on  a  shaft,  do  not  mix  fine  and  coarse  heddles 
together.  Heddles  must  work  free  on  heddle  rods.  The  hooks  that  sup- 
port the  heddle  rod  must  not  be  too  deep  in  the  shaft  or  the  rods  will 
hold  the  heddles  tight  and  they  will  not  move  freely.  Have  all  hooks 
for  heddle  rods  facing  the  front.  Have  heddle  rods  secured  on  both  ends 
of  the  harness  shaft.  This  must  be  especially  noticed,  as  a  smash  often 
results  through  heddle  rods  slipping  out.  Have  harness  hooks  on  top  of 
harness  shafts  set  in  line.  Have  harness  hooks  set  so  that  there  will  be 
a  straight  and  an  even  pull  on  the  springs. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  81 

CHAPTER  XXII 
DRAWING  IN  THK  WARP 

Have  the  harnoss  shafts  susponrlod  in  lioiil  of  diawiii;;  in  Irainc  with 
hoavicsl  \v(>aviiig-  hariicss  in  fi'onf.  This  is  the  general  niclhoil  of  arfang- 
ing  fh(>  liai'noss.  Foi-  cxaniph',  il"  a  phiin  and  fancy  stripe  is  heing  made, 
the  plain  hai'iiess  shafts  will  lie  on  front.  If  single  heani,  have  slasher 
comb  or  lease  level  with  lieddle  eyes.  If  two  or  more  beams,  always  |)ut 
yarn  fr'om  hottoiii  beam  over  lop  of  di'awing  in  frame  lirst,  then  yarn 
from  tlu^  other  b'Mms  to  follow.  Have  a  rod  between  tiie  threads  ti'om 
each  beam  to  keep  them  separated.  Ther(>  are  two  methods  of  ai'ranging 
the  combs.  First.  Have  the  combs  on  the  top  of  each  other.  The  comb 
for  bottom  beam  will  be  on  top  with  the  other  combs  underneath.  This 
brings  the  yarn  from  top  beam  in  front  of  the  yai'n  from  bottom  beam. 
This  method  does  not  take  up  much  space.  Second.  Have  all  the  combs 
level.  The  back  comb  will  b(>  fi'om  bottom  beam  with  the  othei'  combs  in 
front.  Put  up  haiiiess  shafts  in  right  ordei',  then  have  warp  di'awn  in. 
On  many  pattei'ns  the  harness  shafts  can  be  divided  into  sections  tf)  have 
the  wari)  drawn  in.  Take,  for  (>xample,  fancy  strii)e  to  be  made  on  plain 
ground.  Harness  shafts  for  plain  will  be  in  front,  harness  shafts  for 
fancy  stripe  will  be  at  back.  To  divide  in  sections,  leave  off  (he  plain 
harness  shafts  and  draw  in  fancy  stripe,  keeping  each  stripe  'sepai'ate. 
Put  up  the  harness  shafts  for  plain  and  draw  in  the  plain  threads.  When 
the  required  number  of  tbi'eads  have  been  drawn  in  on  plain  hai'ness 
shafts  for  one  pattern,  pull  the  Ihi'cads  for  one  fancy  str'ipe  through  plain 
harness  shr.fts.  Repeat  this  until  all  the  warp  is  drawn  in.  It  must  be 
understood  that  this  cannot  be  done  on  all  patterns,  only  on  those  pat- 
terns in  which  the  threads  from  each  beam  forms  a  stripe  with  all 
threads  together. 

Wiien  warps  are  to  be  drawn  in  without  a  bander  in,  (he  diawing  in 
iiand  begins  on  right-hand  side;  with  a  bander  in,  on  left-hand  side. 
When  all  threads  are  drawn  (hi'ough  heddles,  draw  the  warp  in  reed.  If 
I'eed  is  too  wide,  divide  (he  space  equally  on  both  ends. 

STARTING  LP  THK  WARP 

Have  the  loops  on  harness  levers  in  dobby  stei)i)ed,  that  is,  (he  front 
loojis  in  lowest  notches;  raising  the  other  loojjs  in  notches  in  the  same 
propoi'iion.  Bring  the  beams  fiom  (he  (h-awing  in  frame  on  beam  truck 
pi'Ovid(><l  for  tha(  purpose.  Suppor(  (he  hai'ness  shafts  between  crank 
shaft  and  lay  on  (wo  rods,  (hen  put  beams  in  loom.  Hang  (he  harness 
on  bai-ness  s(raps.  A((ach  the  springs  to  bottom  of  harness  shafts  care-- 
fully.  This  is  veiy  impor(an(,  especially  when  using  tine  yai-ns.  It  is 
also  necessary  (o  have  the  same  strengtli  of  spi'ing  on  each  side  of  the 
shaft.  One  method  of  testing  sjirings  is  as  follows:  Have  a  straight  piece 
of  wood  about  one  yai'd  in  length  with  a  sei'ew  in  one  enil  and  at  the 
other  end  lines  luled  about  half  an  inch  apart  widi  (he  lines  numbei-ed. 
Take  each  sjjiing  separa(ely,  pu(  one  end  on  sciew  and  sus|)end  a  weight 
on  opposde  end.  This  will  pull  ou(  (he  spring  a  cei'(ain  dis(ance,  which 
will  be  indicaled  by  (he  lines.  Lay  (ogelher  all  springs  of  (he  same 
s(reng(h.  (ake  spi'ings  (o  loom  and  coimecl  the  strongest  s|)rings  (o  (lie 
heaviest  hai'ness  shaft;  that  is,  the  harness  shaft  that  has  on  it  the  most 
heddles  and  has  the  heaviest  lift.  Have  whip  roll  level  with  harness  eyes 
so  that  there  will  b(>  an  equal  strain  on  the  yain  when  sheii  is  open,  t'ix 
I'eed  in  lay  sole  and  tighten  up  the  lay  cap.  Put  friction  roite  around 
beam  heads  to  prevent  from  (urning.  Set  the  hai'n(>ss  shafts  so  (hat  (he 
back  shaf(s  will  be  a  little  lower  than  the  front.  Both  ends  id'  the  shafts 
should  lie  level.  Have  (he  yai-n  just  resling  on  (he  race  pla(e.  When 
weaving  (he  yarn  will  be  raised  from  olT  (he  race  platf^  somewhat.  Tie 
in   the   threads  carefully  to  aii   apron.     On    tine  yarns  do   not    (ii;   in   (oo 


82 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


many  ends  at  one  time,  as  it  is  necessary  to  have  every  thread  drawn 
tight  before  tieing  to  apron,  otherwise  threads  will  be  broken  out. 

Divide  the  heddles  equally  in  sections  made  by  heddle  rod  hooks. 
If  the  heddles  are  not  divided  equally  more  will  be  left  on  one  side  than 
the  other,  and  as  a  result  the  heddles  are  pulled  out  of  their  true  posi- 
tion at  the  heddle  rod  hooks,  which  will  cause  the  heddles  to  be  crowded 
at  this  point  so  that  when  the  harness  shafts  are  being  raised  and  lowered 
the  threads  ai'e  chafed.  This  is  illustrated  at  Fig.  52.  Put  in  the  lease 
rods.    For  large  rod,  raise  back  harness  shaft  and  every  alternate  harness 


Figure  52 

shaft.  For  small  rod  raise  the  opposite  harness  shafts.  Set  temples  the 
required  width.  See  that  tlioy  do  not  come  in  contact  with  race  plate  or 
touch  the  reed.  Put  pal  torn  chain  in  dobhy  and  turn  over  lay.  Open  out 
the  shed  and  throw  shutth^  through  three  or  four  times  in  same  shed, 
then  turn  lay  over  and  rojjeat  this  several  times  before  starting  up  loom 
by  power.  Put  on  right  pick  gear.  Occasionally  a  pattern  chain  is  made 
to  weave  plain  on  all  the  harness  shafts  so  as  to  get  in  the  loose  threads 
if  there  are  any  and  to  obtain  a  better  starting  up  of  the  warp. 

CHAPTER  XXIII 

DOBBY  FIXING  POINTS 

The  greatest  fault  that  can  be  found  with  dobhy  cloths  is  miss-picks, 
and  many  pieces  are  rejected  and  put  in  seconds  on  account  of  them. 
This  is  especially  true  when  old  dobbies  are  used.  There  are  various 
causes  for  miss-i)icks.  which  can  by  a  little  care  be  remedied  before 
much  damage  is  done.  A  number  of  these  causes  will  be  mentioned  and 
a  remedy  for  same,  or  a  short  explanation  as  to  how  the  miss-pick  is 
caused  and  the  remedy  can  be  applied. 

Pegs  in  Chain  Bar  Not  Set  Straight. — The  pegs  should  be  put  in  the 
chain  bar  perfectly  straight,  if  not,  the  pegs  that  are  not  straight  will 
get  in  between  the  index  lingers.  The  index  finger  that  ought  to  be  raised 
will  not  be  and  a  miss-pick  results.    Under  each  index  finger  there  is  a 


Practical  Loom  Fixing 


83 


small  groove,  and  if  tho  peg  is  straight  in  the  bar  it  will  work  in  the 
groove.  The  chain  should  i)e  put  on  the  barrel  and  every  bar  examined 
before  the  loom  is  started  up.  This  is  illustrated  at  Fig.  53,  showing  two 
pegs  between  index  fingers. 


Figure  53 

Wrong  Setting  of  Chain  Barrel. — The  chain  barrel  should  not  be  set 
too  high  nor  too  low.  If  set  too  high  the  index  fingers  will  jump  and 
this  will  have  a  tendency  for  them  to  catch  on  the  knife  when  knife  is 
coming  out.  If  the  chain  barrel  is  set  too  low  the  hooks  will  not  be 
lowered  enough  to  get  fully  on  the  knife  and  as  the  knife  moves  out  the 
hooks  will  often  slip  off.  Especially  will  this  be  the  case  if  the  knife  is 
worn.  In  some  dobbies  the  knife  can  be  turned  when  worn  on  one  side. 
In  other  dobbies  the  knife  will  have  to  be  ground  down  straight  all  the 
way  across  and  then  re-set  to  take  up  the  amount  ground  ofT.  When  a 
harness  shaft  drops  in  this  manner  the  threads  on  that  shaft  are  often 
broken  out.    This  also  causes  the  shuttle  to  fiy  out  occasionally. 

Chain  Barrel  on  Wrong  Time. — The  chain  barrel  must  be  set  on 
correct  time.  A  good  general  setting  is  to  have  the  pegs  in  the  chain 
bar  directly  under  the  index  fingers  with  the  knife  about  one-quarter  of 
an  inch  from  the  catch  on  the  jack  hook  with  knife  making  its  outward 
movem.ent.  If  the  chain  barrel  is  being  turned  by  a  pawl  from  the  rock- 
ing arm.  see  that  the  check  on  the  shaft  of  the  chain  barrel  holds  the 
barrel  steady  after  being  turned,  also,  that  the  pegs  are  dii-ectly  under 
the  index  fingers  with  fingers  at  the  highest  point.  This  means  that  if 
the  fingers  are  at  the  highest  point,  the  jack  hooks  will  be  at  the  lowest, 
or  in  other  words,  over  the  knife  so  that  as  the  knife  comes  forward  the 
hooks  will  be  caught  by  it.  The  check  on  shaft  is  a  star  wheel  setscrewed 
on  the  shaft.  A  small  I'oll  is  held  against  the  wheel  by  a  spring,  which 
holds  the  barrel  securely  after  being  turned.  If  this  star  wheel  should 
slip,  the  chain  barrel  will  be  on  wrong  time  and  as  a  result  the  pegs  do 
not  fall  under  the  index  fingers  and  miss-picks  result.  The  pawl  may  be 
set  too  low  in  slot  of  rocking  aiin  and  the  chain  barrel  pulled  over  a 
little  too  far.  In  this  case  the  check  may  possibly  force  the  barrel  to  its 
correct  position,  but  if  it  should  fail  to  do  this  a  miss-pick  will  result, 
because  the  barrel  will  not  be  in  cormct  position.  The  remedy  is  to  set 
the  pawl  higher  in  the  slot  and  readjust  tlu^  ratchet  gear  to  the  pawl. 

Weak  Spring  on  Chain  Barrel  Shaft.— The  spring  ts  held  on  shaft  by 
a  collar,  which  keeps  the  clutch  in  contact  with  the  worm  gear,  this  gear 
being  loose  on  the  shaft.  If  the  spring  should  become  weak,  the  clutch 
will  be  forced  out  of  connection  and  chain  barrel  will  not  be  turned.  It 
occasionally  happens  when  a  large  number  of  pegs  are  put  in  one  chain 
bar  that  the  check  is  forced  out  when  the  spring  is  weak.  The  remedy 
is  to  move  in  the  collar  which  tightens  up  the  sp'ing. 


84  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

Harness  Levers  Too  Tight.— The  harness  lexers  should  not  bo  too 
fight  or  they  will  bind.  They  should  be  just  tight  enough  to  drop  of 
their  own  weight  before  the  harness  shafts  are  attached  to  them.  This 
is  regulated  by  set  screws  on  the  front  and  back  of  the  dobby  trame. 
The  ends  of  these  set  screws  are  in  contact  with  the  bottom  portion  of 
an  harness  lever,  and  by  turnuig  these  set  screws  m  or  out  the  desired 
movement  of  the  harness  levers  can  be  obtained.  Also,  neglect  in  oding 
will  cause  them  to  bind. 

Jack  Hook  Binding.— If  a  jack  hook  fds  too  tight  on  the  jack  where 
hook  is  connected,  it  will  cause  the  hook  to  bind.  This  wdl  keep  the 
hook  from  droppnig  over  the  knife  and  harness  shaft  will  not  be  raised. 
The  end  of  the  jack  can  be  opened  a  little  with  a  screw-driver,  but  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  open  too  wide  or  it  will  catch  on  the  end  of  the 
next  jack  when  returning,  and  this  keeps  the  threads  from  being  lowered 
to  their  regular  position  and  makes  a  miss-pick  as  well  as  causing  them 
to  be  broken  out.  The  jack  with  the  opened  end  will  be  raised  by  the 
next  jack  when  it  ought  not  to  be,  and  this  often  causes  threads  to  be 
broken  out.  The  best  method  to  ascertain  whether  the  miss-pick  is 
caused  by  the  jack  hook  binding  is  to  raise  up  the  hook  and  it  should 
drop  of  its  own  weight.  It  will  do  this  if  working  free.  If  a  jack  hook 
touches  or  comes  in  contact  with  the  guide  it  is  often  prevented  from 
dropping.  In  some  cases  the  hook  drops,  but  too  late  to  be  caught  on 
the  knife,  and  the  harness  shaft  is  left  down  when  it  ought  to  be  raised. 

Index  Finger  Binding. — An  index  finger  occasionally  touches  or  comes 
in  contact  with  a  pin  in  pin-board  or  the  index  finger  guide.  This  pre- 
vents the  finger  from  dropping  and  a  harness  shaft  is  raised  when  it 
ought  not  to  be.  This  can  be  prevented  by  setting  the  index  finger  so 
that  it  will  pass  clear  between  the  pins  or  guide.  Another  cause  of 
finger  binding  is  given  in  "Requirements  of  a  good  dobby."' 

Chain  Bar  Too  Short. — Occasionally  a  chain  bar  is  a  little  shorter 
than  it  ought  to  be.  This  allows  the  bar  to  slip  about  on  the  barrel  and 
causes  a  peg  to  get  in  between  the  index  fingers,  especially  if  the  peg 
should  happen  to  be  a  little  crooked  in  the  bar. 

Cliain  Bar  Too  Large. — Occasionally  a  chain  bar  is  a  trifle  too  large. 
The  bar  will  fit  tight  in  the  chain  barrel  and  instead  of  dropping  from 
the  chain  barrel  is  taken  around  with  it  and  the  chain  gets  stuck. 

Peg  Too  Short. — Occasionally  a  short  peg  is  put  in  the  chain.  The 
index  finger  is  not  raised  high  enough,  consequently  the  jack  hook  is  not 
lowered  sufficiently  to  be  caught  on  the  knife. 

Bent  Connecting  Links. — Chain  bars  are  connected  to  each  other  by 
small  links.  Often  additional  bars  have  to  be  added,  and  when  connecting 
them  together  these  small  links  are  bent,  and  this  in  many  cases  brings 
the  bars  a  trifle  closer  than  they  ought  to  be.  The  result  is  that  the 
bars  will  occasionally  bind  on  the  chain  barrel  instead  of  dropping  off, 
and  this  causes  the  chain  to  get  stuck. 

Chain  Bars  Too  Far  Apart. — If  the  connecting  links  are  not  pressed 
together  as  close  as  they  should  be,  the  bars  will  occasionally  ride  on  the 
i)arrel,  which  causes  a  'miss-pick.  This  often  happens  when  chain  bars 
are  tied  together  with  twine  on  account  of  the  knots  slipping. 

Cliain  Barrel  Not  Turned  Over  Far  Enough  by  Pawl. — If  barrel  is  not 
turned  over  far  enough  by  pawl,  the  pegs  will  not  be  in  correct  position. 
The  check  sometimes  forces  the  barrel  to  correct  position,  but  if  it  fails 
to  do  so  a  miss-pick  results. 

Worn  Index  Finger  and  Index  Finger  Rod. — If  the  rod  which  passes 
through  all  the  index  fingers  is  worn  the  fingers  will  not  work  steady,  or 
if  the  index  finger  bearing  is  worn  the  result  will  be  the  same,  there  will 
be  too  much  lost  motion.     The  principal  reason  for  the  bearing  or  rod 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  85 

wearing  out  is  neglecting  to  oil  these  parts.  This  fact  cannot  he  empha- 
sized too  strongly.  The  only  remedy  is  to  insert  new  index  finger  and 
rod. 

Other  Causes. — Unequal  springs  on  harness  shafts  will  cause  miss- 
picks.  Poor  filling  will  also  cause  miss-picks  or  perhaps  a  better  term 
for  this  is  hi-oken  i)icks.  The  tilling  will  br'cak  and  catch  again  on  the 
same  pick  and  this  shows  a  hi'oken  pick  in  the  middle  of  the  cloth.  This 
occui's  mostly  on  tine  work. 

CHAPTER  XXIV 
WEAVE  ROOM  MANAGEMENT 

Scientific  principles  ai'e  involved  in  all  processes  through  which 
cotton  is  manufactured.  In  no  part  of  the  mill  can  the  i)rinciples  of 
scientific  management  be  better  applied  than  in  the  weave  room,  or  in 
other  words,  efficiency  is  fiesired  and  sli'iven  for  in  the  weave  room.  In 
a  weave  room  there  are  so  ma.ny  small  details  to  be  attended  to  and  so 
many  different  conditions  in  which  labor  is  involved  that  there  should 
be  some  form  of  efficient  and  practical  management  conducted  in  a 
scientific  manner  to  i)roduce  the  best  results.  It  is  impossible  to  name 
all  the  i)oints  that  should  be  looked  after  in  keeping  a  weave  room  up  to 
the  fop  notch  in  efficiency  and  production,  but  some  of  the  principal 
points  can  be  enumerated: 

Start hig  Up  On  Time. — The  overseer  should  be  in  his  place  to  see 
that,  all  looms  are  started  on  time.  A  loss  of  one  minute  on  four  hundred 
looms  is  a  loss  of  400  minutes  work,  and  this  is  a  big  item.  The  influence 
of  the  "on  tiiiK;"  overseer  is  a  great  help  to  the  operatives. 

Care  of  Looms. — Efficient  weaving  depends  on.  the  looms.  Every  part 
must  be  nicely  adjusted  and  work  in  harmony  with  other  parts.  Looms 
should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  every  time  a  warp  is  woven  wut.  All  oil 
holes  should  be  cleaned  out.  All  lost  motion  should  be  taken  out,  espe- 
cially in  crank  arms.  Loose  nuts  should  be  tightened.  All  parts  of  the 
loom  should  be  thoroughly  oiled  with  a  good  oil.  An  oil  that  drips  and 
splatters  should  be  avoiderl,  as  this  causes  too  many  "seconds,"  is  wasteful 
and  is  not  clean,  as  too  much  drops  on  the  fioor.  A,  00000,  Non-Fluid  Oil 
gives  satisfactory  service,  as  it  is  adhesive  and  clings  to  the  part  being 
lubricated,  therefore  practically  abolishing  spattei'ed  warps.  As  looms 
are  oiled  wdien  in  motion,  it  is  particularly  desirable  to  have  an  oil  that 
will  not  spatter  when  put  on  the  cams,  and  K,  00  Special  Non-Fluid  Oil 
gives  the  desired  results. 

Belts.— The  belts  should  be  watched  particularly.  Belts  too  loose 
mean  a  loss  in  production;  belts  too  tight  also  means  a  loss  because  of 
excessive  wear  on  the  various  jjarts  of  loom.  A  medium  tight  belt  should 
be  used  and  a  good  belt  di-essing  applied  occasionally. 

Good  Warps. — Good  warps  are  absolut<>ly  necessary  to  have  good 
quality  and  good  production.  Good  warps  should  be  sized  correctly, 
should  not  be  either  too  soft  or  too  hard  sized.  P^nds  should  not  come  up 
broken,  neither  should  they  be  rolled,  thai  is  crossed  and  twisted.  All 
these  defects  cause  bad  work  and  loss  in  production.  .Many  times  warps 
have  to  be  cut  out  of  loom  because  of  these  defects.  Soft  warps  can 
occasionally  be  remedied  to  a  certain  extent  by  having  a  wax  rod  on  the 
yarn  as  the  yarn  is  coming  off  the  loom  beam.  This  strengthens  the  yarn 
by  coating  it  wdth  wax,  anfl  in  many  cases  is  a  big  saving  because  soft 
warps  can  be  woven  out.  Hard  sized  w-arps  can  sometimes  be  woven  by 
having  a  damp  cloth  in  the  form  of  a  roll  resting  on  the  yarn  below 
the  whip  roll  as  the  yarn  is  coming  off  the  beam. 

Even  with  good  yarn  it  is  almost  impossible  to  weave  cloth  without 
having  some  ends  break.  Breakage  will  be  more  or  less  according  to  the 
strength  of  the  yarn,  the  setting  of  the  various  parts  of  the  loom,  the 
regulation  of  weight  on  the  beam,  together  with  other  details  such  as 
having  shuttles  in  good  condition;  yarn  bottoming  too  deep,  etc.    If  there 


86  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

are  excessive  breakages  and  the  loom  is  in  good  condition  there  is  some- 
thing wrong  with  the  preliminary  processes.  The  yarn  may  be  good 
from  the  spinning  room,  but  is  being  stretched  and  the  elasticity  taken 
out  of  it  in  the  spooling  and  warping  processes  or  the  size  is  not  pene- 
trating into  the  yarn  or  the  yarn  may  be  scorched. 

Waste. — All  waste  should  be  reduced  to  a  minimum.  Looms  picking 
too  hard  is  a  waste  of  power  and  also  causes  a  loss  owing  to  excessive 
breakages.  Time  can  be  saved  by  arranging  tie  ends  so  they  will  pull 
out  easily  when  a  broken  end  has  to  be  tied.  On  common  looms,  a  full 
shuttle  should  always  be  ready  for  use  when  the  filling  is  woven  on  the 
bobbin  in  the  loom,  or  on  automatic  looms  the  magazine  should  not  be 
allowed  to  get  empty. 

There  is  always  a  certain  amount  of  waste  in  yarn  and  cloth  at  the 
starting  up  and  finishing  of  a  warp.  The  cut  mark  should  be  as  near  the 
end  of  the  warp  as  possible  and  the  end  of  warp  should  be  tied  to  an 
apron  or  tied  in  some  way  to  the  loom  beam  so  that  the  mark  can  be 
woven  up  to  the  lease  rods.  The  first  cut  mark  should  not  be  too  far 
from  the  end  so  as  not  to  make  too  much  waste  at  the  beginning.  It  is 
better  to  tie  new  warps  fo  aprons  rather  than  to  the  cloth  in  the  loom. 
If  the  cloth  is  torn  in  order  to  tie  up  the  new  warp,  ten  to  twelve  inches 
of  cloth  is  wasted  and  this  is  quite  an  item  on  a  large  number  of  looms. 

Bobbins  on  Floor. — Full  bobbins  on  floor  should  be  picked  up  at  once, 
otherwise  the  yarn  will  get  dirty  and  cannot  be  used.  The  bobbin  is 
liable  to  be  stepped  on  and  get  broken,  so  that  through  lack  of  care  this 
is  wasted.    All  filling  waste  should  be  kept  clean. 

System  of  Settmg  Shedding  Cams. — Shedding  cams  should  always  be 
set  on  looms  in  a  regular  manner  so  that  the  loom  fixer  will  know  at  once 
which  is  the  large  cam.  This  will  save  considerable  time  when  starting 
up  warp. 

Setting  of  Whip  Rolls. — On  goods  of  the  same  construction,  all  whip 
rolls  should  be  set  in  the  same  position.  This  will  produce  the  same 
appearance  on  all  the  cloth.  If  the  whip  rolls  are  not  set  the  same,  some 
cloth  will  have  "cover"  on  the  face  and  other  cloth  of  the  same  con- 
struction will  be  reedy. 

Uneven  Cloth. — A  strict  watch  should  be  kept  on  uneven  or  streaky 
cloth.  This  is  usually  caused  by  either  the  let-off  or  the  take-up  motion 
being  out  of  order.  Sometimes  streaks  are  made  by  the  weaver  turning 
the  take-up  gears  but  this  should  not  be  allowed. 

Supplies. — The  overseer  should  have  all  supplies  locked  up  or  in  a 
stock  room,  a  record  should  be  kept  of  all  supplies  given  out,  the  date, 
and  to  whom  given.  Shuttles  are  a  great  expense  and  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  keep  the  date  when  shuttles  are  put  in  looms.  This  can  be  done  by  the 
loom  fixer. 

If  the  cost  of  each  article  given  out  is  known,  the  cost  for  each  loom 
fixer  per  month  can  readily  be  ascertained.  The  good  loom  fixer  always 
strives  to  keep  down  cost  of  supplies. 

Reports. — The  various  weave  room  reports  should  be  made  out  each 
day,  such  as  weavers  out;  looms  stopped  and  cause  for  same;  warps  out; 
cuts  woven,  etc.  An  estimate  should  be  made  of  the  number  of  warps 
that  will  run  out  during  the  coming  week,  as  this  will  enable  the  super- 
intendent to  plan  his  work,  especially  on  fancy  and  colored  goods. 

Examination  of  Cloth. — The  cloth  as  it  is  taken  from  the  loom  should 
be  marked  with  the  number  of  loom  and  carried  to  the  place  provided 
for  it.  Each  day  the  cloth  should  be  entered  on  the  production  sheet  for 
the  weaver  and  should  be  examined  each  day.  By  doing  this  the  overseer 
can  keep  up  with  the  amount  of  bad  cloth  made,  the  weavers  who  are 
making  it  and  in  many  cases  will  be  able  to  prevent  the  making  of  more 
bad  cloth  by  looking  into  the  various  causes  of  same.  The  w^eaver  is  not 
always  responsible  for  the  bad  cloth  made  and  responsibility  for  same 
should  be  accurately  and  definitely  placed. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  87 

Calculations 

Cotton  Yarn  Table.— In  order  to  obtain  the  counts  of  yai-n  from  a 
bobbin  cr  cop  a  reel  is  used.  This  reel  is  IV2  yards  in  circumference  and 
is  turned  a  certain  number  of  revolutions  to  obtain  a  required  length. 

Two  tables  are  u.s(Mi  to  obtain  the  counts  of  yarns,  one  lor  length 
and  one  for  weight.    The  t;ible  for  length  is  as  follows: 
1%  yards=l  Revolution. 
120      yards=l  Lea. 
840      yards=l  Hank. 
The  table  for  weight  is  as  follows: 
24      grains=:l  dwt. 
k^lVi  grainsz=l  oz. 
7000      grains=l  lb. 
In  making  calculations  for  cotton  yarns  it  is  well  to  remember  that 
the  finer  the  yarn,  the  higher  the  counts. 
For  example: 
I's  counts  contain       840  yards  and  weigh  1  lb.  or  7,000  grains. 
2's  counts  contain    1,680  yards  and  weigh  1  lb.  or  7,000  grams. 
3's  counts  contain    2,520  yards  and  weigh  1  lb.  or  7,000  grams. 
lO's  counts  contain    8,400  yards  and  weigh  1  lb.  or  7,000  grams. 
lOO's  counts  contain  84,000  yards  and  weigh  1  lb.  or  7,000  grams. 
The  higher  the  counts  the  finer  will  be  the  yarn,  consequently  more 
yards  will  be  required  to  weigh  one  pound. 

Cotton  yarns  are  governed  by  hanks,  and  the  number  of  hanka  in 
one  pound  equals  the  counts  of  the  yarn. 

840  yards  equal  1  hank.  Therefore  if  840  yards  weigh  i  lb.,  the 
counts  of  the  yarn  will  be  I's. 

Reeling  Yarn 

The  practical  method  of  ascertaining  the  counts  of  yarn  from  either 
bobbin  or  cop  is  to  wind  a  certain  length  on  the  reel. 

If  one  hank  or  840  yards  is  wound  on  the  reel,  then  weighed  and 
the  weight  divided  into  7,000  grains,  the  result  will  be  the  counts  of  the 
yarn. 

It  is  not  customary  to  wind  840  yards  from  one  bobbin,  but  to  use 
four  bobbins  and  wind  120  yards  from  each  of  these  bobbins  at  the 
same  time.  This  saves  time  and  it  is  also  possible  to  get  a  more  correct 
average  of  the  counts  of  the  yarn  being  spun  than  can  be  done  if  only 
one  bobbin  is  used. 

Rule.    To  find  the  counts  of  yarn: 

Weight  of  840  yards  divided  into  7,000=counts  of  yarn. 

Example.    840  yards  of  yarn  weighs  140  grains;  what  are  the  counts? 
7,000^  140=50's  counts. 

If  120  yards  of  yarn  has  been  wound  from  each  of  four  bobbins  the 
counts  of  yarn  can  be  found  by 

Rule. 

Weight  of  480  yards  of  yarn  divided  into  4,000=:counts  of  yarn. 

Example.    120  yards  of  yarn  is  wound  from  each  of  four  bobbins 
and  weighs  50  grains.    What  are  the  counts? 
4,000-^50=:80's  counts. 

Each  skein  of  120  yards  can  be  weighed  separately  and  the  counts 
of  each  ascertained.  This  will  show  the  variation  in  the  counts  of  each 
yarn.  The  average  counts  will  be  found  by  taking  the  total  weight  and 
dividing  into  4,000  as  given. 


88  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

If  only  120  yards  of  yarn  is  wound  on  the  reel  the  counts  can  be 
found  by 

Rule,    Weight  of  120  yards  divided  into  1,000= Counts  of  yarn. 
Example.    120  yards  of  yarn  is  wound  from  bobbin  and  weighs  20 
grains.    What  are  the  counts: 

l,000-^20=50's  counts. 
If  only  30  yards  of  yarn  is  w^eighed  the  counts  can  be  found  by 
Rule.     Weight  of  30  yards  divided  into  250=Counts  of  yarn. 
Exanipie.    30  yards  of  yarn  weighs  10  grains.    What  are  the  counts? 

250^10=25's  counts. 
The  number  to  be   used  when   finding  counts  of  yarn   from   even 
lengths  of  yarn  is  obtained  by  taking  an  equal  proportion  of  the  yards  in 
one  hank  and  the  grains  in  one  pound.    This  can  be  illustrated  as  fol- 
lows : 

Weight  of  840  yards  divided  into  7,000  grains  =  Gounts. 
Weight  of  120  yards  divided  into  1,000  grains  =  Gounts. 
Weight  of    60  yards  divided  into     500  grains  =  Gounts. 
Weight  of    30  yards  divided  into     250  grains=Gounts. 
Weight  of    12  yards  divided  into     100  grains  =  Gounts. 
In  making  cotton  yarn  calculations  a  constant  is  often  used  espe- 
cially when  the  counts  have  to  be  obtained  from  irregular  lengths  of 
yarn.    This  constant  is  obtained  by  dividing  the  standard  for  weight, 
7,000  grains,  by  the  standard  for  length,  840  yards:     7,000^840=8   1/3 
grains,  which  is  the  weight  of  1  yard  of  Ts  counts. 
To  find  counts  of  yarn  when  using  constant: 

Rule.  Multiply  the  number  of  yards  weighed  by  8  1/3  and  divide 
by  the  weight  in  grains. 

Example.    45  yards  of  yarn  weighs  25  grains.    What  are  the  counts? 

8  1/3x45^25=15  counts  of  yarns. 
Very  frequently  the  counts  of  warp  and  filling  have  to  be  ascertained 
from  short  lengths  taken  from  a  small  sample  of  cloth.    When  this  has 
to  be  done  the  following  rule  is  used. 

Rule,  Number  of  inches  weighed  x  7,000-f-weight  in  grains  of 
inches  weighedx840x36=Counts  of  warp  or  filling. 

Example.  100  inches  of  wari)  or  filling  yarns  weighs  .7  grains.  What 
will  be  the  counts? 

100x7,000^.7x840x36=33  counts. 
A  constant  can  be  used  as  a  substitute  for  this  rule,  because  three 
of  the  numbers  used  in  rule  are  required  for  every  calculation  as  fol- 
lows:   7,000^840x36=.23148  constant. 

This  constant  multiplied  by  inches  weighed  and  divided  by  weight 
will  give  the  counts.    Take  for  illusti'ation  the  preceding  example: 
.23148x100^.7=33  counts. 

Cloth  Calculations 

In  making  these  calculations  it  is  first  necessary  to  ascertain  the 
number  of  ends  per  inch  in  cloth  and  from  this  the  total  number  of 
ends  in  cloth  can  be  found  when  the  width  of  cloth  is  known. 

These  calculations  have  special  reference  to  weight  of  cloth  so  that 
in  making  the  calculations,  the  length  of  yarn  from  slasher  must  be 
used  on  account  of  the  contraction  that  takes  places  in  weaving. 

To  find  number  of  ends  in  warp. 

Rule.    Ends  per  inch  x  width  of  cloth  +  selvage  ends. 

Example.    A  cloth  has  to  be  made  30  inches  wide  with  60  ends  per 
inch,  24  extra  ends  to  be  added  for  selvage.    How  many  ends  in  warp 
60x30=1,800+24=1,824  ends  required. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  89 

To  find  weight  of  warp  yarn  in  a  piece  of  cloth. 
....Rule.    Ends  in  warp  x  slasher  length  -=-  840  x  counts  of  warp.    Add 
weight  of  size. 

Example.    What  will  be  the  weight  of  warp  in  a  cloth  28yo  inches 
wide,  64  ends  per  inch,  50  yards  of  cloth,  ^2V2  yards  slasher  length  of 
yarn.  40  warp.    Add  32  extra  ends  for  selvage,  also  7%  for  size. 
64x281/.  =  1,824 -(-32=  1.856  ends  In  warp. 
l,856x52i/>-^840x40=2.9  lbs.  warp. 
2.9+7%  size=3.103  lbs. 

To  find  weight  of  filling  in  a  piece  of  cloth. 

Rule.     Width  in   reed    x    picks  per  inch    x    cloth   length   -^   840   x 
_  counfs  of  filling. 

Example.  What  will  be  the  weight  of  filling  in  a  cloth  281/2  inches 
wide,  woven  30  inches  in  the  reed.  Cloth  to  be  50  yards  long,  64  picks 
per  inch  of  50  filling. 

30x64x50^840x50=2.285  lbs.  filling. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  width  in  reed  is  multiplied  by  the  picks 
per  inch,  which  equals  the  number  of  inches  of  filling  in  one  inch  of 
cloth  and  is  then  directly  multiplied  by  the  cloth  length  in  yards.  This 
is  done  because  the  number  of  inches  of  filling  in  one  inch  of  cloth  also 
i-epresents  the  yards  of  filling  in  one  yard  of  cloth  from  the  fact  that  if 
inches  of  filling  in  one  inch  of  cloth  is  multiplied  by  36  the  result  is 
inches  of  filling  in  one  yard  of  cloth,  consequently  the  number  will  have 
to  be  divided  by  36  to  bring  it  back  to  yards  which  is  the  same  as  at 
first. 

To  find  weight  per  yard  from  small  sample,  also  counts  of  warp  and 
filling. 

Take  from  samule  a  numlier  of  ends  of  warp  and  filling,  then  weigh 
each  separately.  From  this  data  the  counts  and  weight  can  be  ascer- 
tained by  the  following 

Rule. 

(a)  Number  inches  weighed  x  .23148  -=-  weight  =  counts. 

(b)  Total  number  of  ends  in  cloth  x  16^840  x  counts  of  warp  = 
weight  of  warp.    To  this  add  contraction  in  warp. 

(c)  Width  in  reed  x  picks  per  inch  -f-  840  x  counts  of  filling  = 
weight  of  filling. 

Example.    A  sample  of  cloth   contains  64x64   ends   and   picks   per 
inch.    Cloth  to  be  made  281/2  inches  wide  and  set  30  inches  in  i-eed.   Warp 
contracts  iSVc     .\dd   16  extra  ends  for  solvag(>.     What   will  be  (he  W(Mght 
per  yard? 

100  inches  of  warp  weighs  .7  grains. 
100  inches  of  filling  weighs  .7  grains. 
1 00  X. 23 148 

=33  warp  and  filling. 

.7 
64x284  =  1,824  +  16=1.840  ends  in  warp. 
l,840x  16^840x33=  1.062+67f  =  1.13   oz. 
30x64x16^840x33=  1.108  oz. 


2.238  oz.  per  yard. 
To  find  yards  per  pound. 
Rule.    Ounces  per  lb.  -=-  weight  per  yard. 
Example.     Weight  of  one  yard   =   2.238.     What   will  be   the  weight 
per  yard? 

16^2.238=7.148  yards  per  lb. 
To  find  weight  of  one  yard  from  small  sample. 


90  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

Rule.    Number  of  square  inches  in  one  yard  of  required  cloth   x 
weight  of  sample  -^  square  inch  in  sample  x  437%. 

ELxampIe.    A  piece   of  drill   cloth   4x4   inches   weighs  34.56   grains^ 
cloth  to  be  30  inches  vvide.    What  will  be  the  weight  per  yard? 
30x30=1.080  squj) ro  inches  in  one  vnrd. 
1,080x34.56-4- 16x437y2=5.33  oz.  per  yard. 

By  previous  Rule  11: 

16-T-5.33=3  yards  per  lb. 
Another  rule  to  find  yards  per  lb.  is  as  follows: 
7,000  X  number  of  square  inches  of  sample  weighed.    Result  divided 
by  weight  in  grains  x  width  of  cloth  x  36. 

7,000x16^34.56x30x36=3  yards  per  lb. 
From  this  rule  a  constant  number  can  be  obtained.    7,000  and 
36  are  always  used,  therefore  7,000-^-36=194.44  constant  number. 

194.44-T-width  of  cloth  x  weight  of  one  square  inch  =  yards  per  ID. 
When   more   than   one   square   inch   is  weighed,   multiply   194.44   bj 
number  of  inches  weighed. 

Use  Example  12:    4x4=16  square  inches. 
194.44x16=3,111. 
3,lll-=-30x34.56=3  yards  per  lb. 
Another  method  of  ascertaining  the  yards  per  lb.  is  as  follows: 
Rule. 

Divide  the  ends  per  inch  by  counts  of  warp. 
Divide  the  picks  per  inch  by  counts  of  filling. 

Add  the  two  results  together  and  multiply  by  width  of  cloth.    Divide 
840  by  resulting  number. 

Example.    A  cloth  has  to  be  made  30  inches  wide. 
Counts  of  warp  13.65;  counts  of  filling  12.80. 
Ends  per  inch  68.    Picks  per  inch  44.    How  many  yards  per  lb.? 
68-^13.65  =  4.981 
44-4-12.80=3.437 
4.981-f3.437=8.418 
840-^8.418x30=3.326  yards  per  lb. 
About  10  per  cent  would  be  allowed  for  contraction  and  size  on  yarns 
and  this  would  bring  the  weight  to  about  3  yards  per  lb. 

To  find  average  counts  when  ends  per  inch,  picks  per  inch  and  yards 
per  pounds  are  known. 

Rule.    Add  ends  and  picks  per  inch  together  and  multiply  the  result 
by  width  of  cloth  and  yards  per  pound.    Divide  by  840. 

Example.    What  are  the  average  counts  in  a  cloth  62  ends  per  inch, 
58  picks  per  inch,  38  inches  wide  and  weighs  6  vards  per  lb. 
62-1-58=120. 
120x38x6^840=32.57  average  counts. 

To  find  average  counts  in  cloth  when  ends  per  inch,  picks  per  inch, 
counts  of  warp  and  filling  are  known. 
Rule. 

Ends  per  inch  -4-  counts  of  warp. 
Picks  per  incn  -:-  counts  of  filling. 
Add  the  results  and  divide  into  sum  of  ends  and  picks. 
Example.    A  cloth  is  made  80x  100  ends  and  picks,  55  warp,  75  filling. 
What  are  the  average  counts. 
80-4-55=1.454 
100-4-75=1.333 


180  2.787 

180^2.787=64.58  average  counts. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  91 

CLOTH  CALCULATIONS 

To  find  average  counts  of  warp  when  more  than  one  counts  of  warp 
are  used. 

Rule.    Divide  the  number  of  ends  of  each  kind  by  its  own  count 
Add  the  results  and  divide  info  the  total  number  of  ends. 

Example.    A  cloth  is  made  which  contains  the  following  yarns: 

1860  ends  of  60;  980  ends  of  45;  540  ends  of  2/20. 
What  are  the  average  warp  counts? 
1860-^601=31 
980^45=21.77 
1080-4-20=54 


3920  106.77 

3920  -^  106.77  =  36.71  average  warp  counts. 

(When  ply  yarns  are  used   in  calculations  for  average  counts,  the 
number  of  single  yarns  are  usually  considered.) 

To  find  average  counts  in  cloth  when  more  than  one  counts  of  warp 
is  used,  also  picks  per  inch  and  counts  of  filling. 

Rule.    Obtain  average   sley.     Divide  average  sley  by  average  warp 
counts.    Divide  number  of  picks  per  inch  by  counts  of  filling.    Add  the 
results  together  and  divide  into  the  sum  of  sley  and  picks. 
Example.    A  cloth  is  made  from  the  following  yarns: 

1860  ends  of  60;  980  ends  of  45;  540  ends  of  2/20. 
80  picks  per  inch  of  75  filling. 
Cloth  width,  28  inches. 
What  are  the  average  counts? 

1860+980+1080=3920  ends. 
3920-^28=140  average  sley. 
1860^60=31 
980-4-45=21.77 
1080-4-20=54 


3920  106.77 

3920-4-106.77=36.71  average  warp  conuts. 
140-4-36.71=3.813 
80^75      =1.006 

220  ■     4.879 

220  -4-  4.879  =  45.09  average  counts  in  cloth. 

To  find  counts  of  filling  required  fo  produce  a  certain  weight  of 
goods. 

Rule.  Obtain  average  counts.  Decide  on  warp  counts  to  be  used. 
From  warp  counts  obtain  weight  of  warp  yarn.  Then  deduct  weight  of 
warp  yarn  from  one  pound.    This  result  will  be  weight  of  filling  required. 

Yards  of  filling  in  one  pound  -4-  840  x  weight  of  filling  =  counts  of 
filling  required. 

Example.  A  fabric  is  required  62  x  58 — 6  yards— 38  inches  wide. 
Allow  10  per  cent  for  contraction  and  size.  Add  20  ends  for  selvage. 
What  are  the  average  counts  and  what  are  the  actual  counts  to  be  used? 

62  X  38  =  2356  +  20  =  2376  vjii'ds  +  10%  =  2640  vard?  of  wari)  in 
1  yard  of  cloth. 

58  X  38  =  2204  yards  +  10%  =  2448.8  yards  of  filling  in  1  yd.  of  cloth. 

2640  +  2448.8  =  5088.8. 

5088.8  X  6  -4-  840  =  36.34  average  counts. 

Assume  the  mill  is  making  30  warp  counts. 

2640  X  6  -4-  840  X  30  =  .628  lbs.  of  warp. 


92  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

1  _  .628  =  .372  lb.  filling  required. 

2448.8  X  6  -^  840  X  .372  =  47  counts  of  filling  required. 

The  average  counts  in  this  example  could  have  been  found  by  the 
short  Rule  14,  as  follows: 

62  +  58  =  120._    120  X  38  X  6  -^  840  =  32.57  average  counts. 

Allowing  10  per  cent  for  contraction,  the  average  counts  would  be 
just  over  36. 

To  find  average  ends  per  dent  in  an  unequally  reeded  fabric: 

Rule.  Add  number  of  ends  in  one  pattern.  Add  number  of  dents  in 
one  pattern.    Divide  ends  by  dents.' 

Example.    A  fabric  is  made  in  a  30  reed,  and  is  reeded  as  follows: 
20  ends  in  10  dents. 
40  ends  in  10  dents. 

60  20 

60  -^  20  =  3  ends  per  dent  average. 

To  find  average  number  of  ends  per  inch  in  an  unequally  reeded 
fabric: 

Rule.  Number  of  ends  in  one  pattern  x  number  of  reed  -f-  number 
of  dents  in  pattern. 

Example.    What  will  be  the  average  number  of  ends  per  inch  in  a 
fabric  made  with  40  reed,  30  inches  wide,  and  reeded  as  follows? 
50  ends  in  10  dents 
20  ends  in  10  dents 
25  ends  in    5  dents 
10  ends  in    5  dents 

105  30 

105  X  40  -^  30  =  140  average  ends  per  inch. 
To  find  number  of  patterns  in  warp,  the  ends  being  equally  reeded. 
Rule.    Divide  number  of  ends  inside  selvage  by  number  of  ends  in 
pattern. 

Inside  selvages  are  used  so  as  to  keep  the  same  width  of  selvage  on 
all  goods  or  on  the  same  line  of  goods.  If  the  full  number  of  ends  are 
used  to  ascertain  the  number  of  patterns  there  is  a  tendency  to  have  a 
variation  in  the  width  of  selvages. 

Example.    How  many  patterns  are  there  in  a  fabric  28  inches  inside 

selvages,  60  ends  per  inch,  warp  dressed  as  follows? 

20  ends  white 

8  ends  blue 

4  ends  white 

8  ends  blue 

40 

28  X  60  =  1680  ends  inside  selvages.    1680  -^  40  =  42  patterns  in  warp. 
Selvage  ends  would  be  added  to  white. 

In  laying  out  a  pattern  of  this  description  the  20  ends  of  white  that 
begin  the  pattern  would  be  divided  so  that  both  sides  of  the  fabric  would 
be  the  same.    The  pattern,  therefore,  would  be: 
10  ends  white 
8  ends  blue 
4  ends  white 
8  ends  blue 
10  ends  white 

40 
To  find  number  of  ends  of  each  color  in  warp: 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  93 

Rule.  Obtain  tlie  number  of  patterns  in  warp  inside  selvages.  Ends 
of  each  color  x  number  of  patterns. 

Using  previous  example.    There  are  42  patterns  in  warp. 
24  ends  white 
16  ends  blue 
42x24=1008  ends  white 
42x10=:  672  ends  blue 

1680  ends 
To  find  weight  of  each  color  of  warp  and  filling  in  one  yard  of  cloth: 
Rule  for  Warp.    Number  of  ends  of  each  color  x  16  -f-  840  x  counts 
of  warp.    Add  contraction  and  size. 

Rule  for  Filling.  Total  weight  of  filling  x  picks  per  pattern  of  each 
color  -^  total  number  of  picks  in  pattern. 

Example.  What  will  be  the  weight  of  warp  and  filling  in  one  yard 
of  a  gingham  cloth,  28  inches  inside  selvages,  28V2  inches  outside  selvages, 
60  ends  per  inch,  60  picks  per  inch,  40  warp,  40  filling.  Warp  set  30  inches 
in  reed.  Add  10  i)or  cent  for  contraction  and  size.  Colors  arranged  as 
in  previous  example: 

20  white 
8  blue 
4  white 
8  blue 

40 
Weight  of  warp. 

28  X  60  =  1680  ends  inside  selvage. 
1680  ^  40  =  42  patterns  in  warp. 
42  X  24  =  1008  +  60  selvage  ends  =  1068  ends  white. 
42  X  16  =  672  ends  blue. 

1068  X   16  H-  840  X  40  =  ..508  +  10%  =  .564  oz.  white 
672  X   16  H-  840  X  40  =  .32     +  10%  =  .355  oz.  blue 

.919  =  weight  of  warp. 
Weight  of  filling: 

30  X  60  X  16  ^  840  X  40  =  .857  oz. 
.857  X  24  -=-  40  =  .514  oz.  white 
.857  X   16  ^  40  :=  .343  oz.  blue 

.857  oz.  total  weight. 
.919  X  .857  =  1.776  oz.  per  vard. 
16  -T-  1.776  =  9  yards  per  lb. 
To  find  number  of  dents  in  pattern,  the  ends  being  unequally  reeded  as 
in  a  satin  and  plain  stripe. 

Rule.  Obtain  the  number  of  dents  per  inch  in  cloth.  Measure  with 
rule  the  full  width  of  pattern.  Number  of  dents  per  inch  in  cloth  x  width 
of  pattern  equals  number  of  dents  in  pattern. 

Example.  A  satin  and  plain  stripe  has  been  constructed  29^^  inches 
inside  selvages,  29V2  inches  outside  selvages,  32  dents  per  inch  in  cloth. 
Pattern  measures  1%  inches. 

The  pattern  arranged  as  follows: 
1  inch  plain 
Vs  inch  satin 
%  inch  plain 
Vh  inch  satin 
%  inch  plain 
%  inch  satin 
32  X   1%  =  52  dents  in  pattern. 


94  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

In  order  to  check  up  the  pattern  and  to  divide  the  dents  for  the  dif- 
ferent stripes  it  is  necessary  to  measure  each  stripe  separately. 

The  width  of  stripes  in  previous  example  with  the  dents  and  ends  in 
a  pattern  is  as  follows: 

Plain  stripe  measures  1  inch  =  32  dents  =  64  ends. 
Satin  stripe  measures  %  inch  =  4  dents  =  20  ends. 
Plain  stripe  measures  %  inch  =  4  dents  =  8  ends. 
Satin  stripe  measures  %  inch  =  4  dents  =  20  ends. 
Plain  stripe  measures  %  inch  z=  4  dents  =  8  ends. 
Satin  stripe  measures    %  inch  =    4  dents  =  20  ends. 

52 

It  will  be  noticed  that  this  calculation  has  been  made  from  dents  per 
inch  in  cloth.  This  is  found  by  counting  the  dents  in  cloth  by  the  use  of 
a  pick  glass.  The  reed  used  will  have  a  less  number  of  dents  per  inch, 
depending  on  the  contraction  between  cloth  width  and  reed  width. 

Another  method  of  obtaining  the  number  of  dents  in  a  pattern  is  to 
use  a  parr  of  dividers  and  measure  each  stripe  separately,  then  compare 
with  some  part  of  the  sample  that  is  known  to  contain  an  equal  number 
of  ends  per  dent  as  in  plain  cloth.  For  example,  a  fabric  is  made  with 
plain  stripe,  cord,  and  a  satin  stripe.  The  plain  stripe  will  have  two  ends 
per  dent,  then  by  measuring  the  width  of  the  satin  stripe  or  cord  with  the 
dividers  and  placing  the  dividers  on  the  plain  cloth,  the  number  of  dents 
in  each  can  readily  be  seen.  In  this  way  the  dents  in  each  stripe  is  easily 
ascertained. 

To  find  patterns  in  warp  the  ends  being  unequally  reeded  as  in  pre- 
vious example  of  plain  and  satin  stripe. 

32  X  29  %  -^  52  =  18  patterns. 

To  find  ends  in  warp,  the  ends  being  unequally  reeded  as  in  previous 
example  of  plain  and  satin  stripe: 

Rule.    Patterns  in  warp  x  ends  of  each  stripe  in  pattern  +  selvage. 

As  this  pattern  consists  of  plain  and  satin  two  beams  will  be  neces- 
sary. The  plain  warp  will  be  put  on  the  bottom  beam  and  the  satin  warp 
on  the  top  beam. 

The  pattern  contains  40  dents  plain  =  80  ends. 

12  dents  satin  =  60  ends. 

18  X  80  =  1440  +  32  for  selvages  1472  ends  B.  B. 

18  X  60  =  1080  ends  T.  B. 

PRODUCTIO.X  C.\LCLX.\TIO\S 

The  following  examples  will  illustrate  how  loom  production  is  ob- 
tained. 

Example.  How  long  will  it  take  a  loom  to  weave  100  yards  of  cloth 
with  80  picks  per  inch.  Diameter  of  pulley  on  driving  shaft  10  inches; 
diameter  of  loom  pulley  12  inches;  syeed  of  driving  shaft  216  R.  P.  M. 
Allow  10  per  cent  for  stoppages. 

216  X  10  -4-  12  =  180  picks,  speed  of  loom. 

10  per  cent  of  180  =  18. 

180  —  18  =  162,  actual  working  time. 

80  X  36  X  100  =  288.000  picks  in  cloth. 

288.000  -^  162  =  illl.l  minutes. 

1777.7  -^  60  =  29  hours  and  38  minutes. 

Example.  How  many  yards  of  cloth  will  a  loom  produce  at  150  picks 
per  minute  in  a  week  of  60  hours  weaving  cloth  with  80  picks  per  inch; 
also  how  many  yards  at  90  per  cent  production. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  95 

150  X  60  X  60  =  540,000  picks  per  week. 

80  X  36  =  2880  picks  per  yard. 

540,000  -^  2880  =  187.5  yards  at  100  per  cent  production. 

10  per  cent  of  187.5  =  18.75. 

187.5  —  18.75  =  168.75  yards  per  week  woven  at  90  per  cent. 

There  are  certain  numbers  which  must  necessarily  occur  in  these 

calculations.    These  are  minutes  per  hour,  hours  per  week,  36  inches  in 

one  yard.    A  constant  number  can  be  obtained  from  these  three  numbers, 

60  minutes  per  hour,  60  hours  per  week,  36  mches  in  one  yard,  as  follows: 

60  X  60  -^  36  =  100. 

This  constant  number  can  be  used  as  follows: 

Rule.  Loom  speed  x  100  -^  picks  per  inch  =  100  per  cent  production 
per  week  of  60  hours. 

Using  previous  example,  150  x  100  ^  80  =  187:5  yards.  For  a  pro- 
duction less  than  100  multiply  by  the  per  cent  required. 

A  constant  number  can  be  worked  out  for  any  number  of  hours  per 
week  by  substituting  the  number  of  hours  worked  for  the  60  used  for 
illustration.  What  constant  will  be  used  for  100  per  cent  in  a  week  of  54 
hours? 

60  X  54  -^  36  =  90. 

Example.  How  many  yards  will  a  loom  produce  at  160  picks  per 
minute  in  a  week  of  54  hours  weaving  cloth  at  72  picks  per  inch,  also  how 
many  yards  at  90  per  cent. 

160  X  90  -T-  72  =  200  yards  at  100  per  cent. 
200  X  .90  =  180  yards  at  80  per  cent. 

Or  by  long  method: 

160  X  60  X  54  -^  72  X  36  =  200  yards. 
200  —  10  per  cent  =  180  yards. 

CHAPTER  XX Y 

C.\LCUL.\TIONS  FOR  COTTON  HARNESS 

The  counts  of  cotton  harness  are  usually  calculated  in  two  different 
ways.  First,  by  having  a  certain  number  of  harness  eyes  on  a  specified 
width.  Second,  by  having  a  certain  number  of  "biers"  on  a  specified 
width.  A  bier  has'always  twenty  harness  eyes  and  is  indicated  by  a  piece 
of  twine  passing  over  this  number  of  eyes,  generally  on  (nj)  of  harness. 

Calculations  for  cotton  harness  are  made  for  either  two  or  four  har- 
ness shafts,  the  finer  grade  of  goods  being  made  on  four  shafts.  These 
calculations  are  alwavs  made  to  correspond  with  the  reed,  for  example, 
if  a  number  :W  reed  has  to  be  used  then  .30  eyes  will  be  required  per  inch 
one  each  shaft,  using  two  shafts. 

Example  1.— A  sheeting  fabric  has  to  be  made  with  48  ends  per  inch, 
40  inches  wide.  Harness  eyes  will  be  spread  about  43  inches  on  shapt. 
How  many  harness  eyes  on  each  shaft,  using  two  harness  shafts? 

48x40=1920  ends  in  warp,  without  selvage  ends. 

1920-:-2=960  eves  on  each  shaft. 

Selvage  ends  "are  added  to  outside  ends  in  cloth  and  do  not  have  to 
be  used  in  calculation  for  harness  eyes. 

Example  2. — The  harness  for  a  plain  warp  has  to  be  spread  40  inches, 
flic  warp  having  3300  ends.    Use  two  harness  shafts. 

How  manv  eyes  on  each  shaft?    How  many  biers  on  each  shaft? 

3360^2=1680  eyes  on  each  shaft. 

1680-:-20=84  biers  on  each  shaft. 

Example  3.— A  fine  fabric  has  to  be  made  with  120  ends  per  inch,  36 


96  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

inches  wide.     Harness  eyes  to  be  spread  38  inches.     Use   four  harness 
shafts. 

How  many  eyes  on  each  shaft?     How  many  biers  on  each  shaft? 

120x36=4320  ends  in  warp,  without  selvage  ends. 

4320h-4  =  1080  eves  on  each  shaft. 

1080^20=54  biers  on  each  shaft. 

Frequently  a  fabric  has  to  be  made  in  which  the  number  of  ends  in 
fabric  are  less  than  the  number  of  eyes  on  harness  shafts.  When  this 
occurs,  the  extra  eyes  have  to  be  left  on  each  side  of  the  harness. 

Example  4. — A  set  of  two  harness  contains  dGV^  biers  on  40  inches  on 
each  shaft.    The  warp  to  be  drawn  through  this  harness  has  3744  ends. 

How  manv  eves  will  have  to  be  left  over  and  how  left  over? 

9614x20=1925  eyes  on  each  shaft. 

3744-^-2=1872  ends  to  be  drawn  through  each  shaft. 

1925—1872=53  eyes  to  be  cast  out  or  left  over. 

53^2=26  eyes  on  one  side,  27  eyes  on  the  other  to  be  left  out. 

When  a  mill  is  making  only  one  or  two  grades  of  standard  goods 
there  is  little  difficulty  in  keeping  a  supply  of  harness  shafts  on  hand. 
In  mills  that  make  a  variety  of  styles  it  sometimes  happens  that  when 
an  order  is  received  for  a  fabric  of  a  certain  construction,  the  correct 
counts  of  harness  are  not  on  hand  and  will  have  to  be  ordered.  Often,  to 
save  time,  an  old  set  of  harness  can  be  used  until  the  new  harness  shafts 
are  ready.  This  can  only  be  done  when  there  is  a  smaller  number  of  ends 
in  the  new  cloth  than  tliere  are  harness  eyes  in  the  old  harness.  If  there 
are  more  ends  in  the  new  cloth  than  in  the  old  cloth,  new  harness  shafts 
will  have  to  be  obtained. 

When  using  an  old  set  of  harness  shafts  in  which  there  are  more  eyes 
than  there  are  ends  in  the  new  cloth,  the  extra  eyes  will  have  to  be  left 
over  at  diffei'ent  points  across  the  harness.  It  is  not  advisable  to  leave 
too  many  empty  eyes  at  one  place. 

Example  5. — A  new  cloth  has  to  be  made  with  1792  ends,  the  harness 
eyes  to  be  spread  30  inches.  The  old  hai'ness  to  be  used  has  1104  eyes  on 
30  inches,  on  each  shaft.    Two  harness  shafts  used. 

How  many  harness  eyes  will  have  to  be  left  over?  How  will  they  be 
left  over? 

1792h-2=896  ends  to  be  drawn  through  one  shaft. 

1104—896=208  extra  eyes  to  be  left  over  on  each  shaft. 

208^-30=6.93  or  7  eyes  left  over  per  inch  on  each  shaft. 

Exami)le  6. — A  fabric  has  been  made  with  1542  ends.  Harness  eyes 
for  same  spread  30  inches.  A  new  fabric  is  required  with  '1404  ends  to' be 
made  on  same  harness.    Two  harness  shafts. 

How  manv  eves  will  be  left  over  on  each  shaft?     How  left  over? 

1542-1404  =  138  eyes  to  be  left  over. 

138^2=69  eyes  to  be  left  over  on  each  shaft. 

69-^30=2.3  eyes  to  be  left  over  per  inch;  or  7  every  three  inches:  or 
2-2-3  eyes  per  inch  on  each  shaft. 

ExampJe  7. — A  fabric  has  to  be  made  with  2520  ends,  harness  for  same 
to  be  spread  30  inches.  The  only  available  harness  is  a  set  of  two  shafts 
that  has  96  biers  on  each  shaft  on  40  inches. 

How  many  eyes  will  have  to  be  left  over  on  the  width  of  harness 
used?  How  left  over?  How  many  biers  to  be  left  over  at  each  end  of 
harness  shaft? 

96x30 

=72  biers  on  30  inches  on  each  shaft. 

40 

72x20=1440  eyes  on  30  inches  on  each  shaft. 

2520-^2=1260  ends  to  be  drawn  through  harness  on  .30  inches. 
1440—1260=180  eyes  to  be  left  over  on  each  shaft  on  30  inches. 

180^30=6  eyes  per  inch  to  be  left  over  on  each  shaft. 

96—72=24  biers  extra;  12  left  over  on  each  side  of  each  shaft. 


Practical  Loom  Fixing  97 

WIRE  HEDDLES 

On  many  kinds  of  plain  fabrics,  wire  heddles  are  now  being  used. 
Some  users  of  these  heddles  claim  that  they  get  as  good  results  as  with 
cotton  harness  with  the  additional  advantage  that  they  do  not  wear  out 
as  quickly  as  the  cotton  harness:  also  that  they  can  be  used  on  any  num- 
ber of  ends  in  fabric  by  putting  on  each  shaft  the  required  number  of 
heddles. 

The  calculations  for  wire  heddles  is  about  the  same  as  for  ordinary 
cotton  harness,  that  is  the  number  of  ends  in  warp  divided  by  the  num- 
ber harness  shafts  used  will  give  the  number  of  heddles  required  on 
each  shaft. 

CALCUL.\Tia\S  FOR  REEDS. 

On  all  reeds  there  is  a  wide  strip  of  steel  at  each  end,  on  which  the 
number  of  reed  is  indicated.  In  general  there  are  two  systems  of  indicat- 
ing the  number  of  reed.  First,  The  number  of  dents  per  inch  is  stamped 
on  the  end  of  the  reed.  Second,  the  total  number  of  dents  in  reed  and  the 
width  of  reed  is  stamped  on  the  end  of  reed.  A  third  method  is  also  used, 
by  indicating  on  end  of  reed  the  sley  reed,  that  is  the  number  of  ends 
per  inch  in  the  reed.  In  ordinary  work,  two  ends  are  supposed  to  be 
drawn  through  each  dent.  The  selvage  ends  arc  extra  on  each  side  and 
are  not  used  in  calculations. 

When  the  number  of  ends  per  inch  is  known  and  the  number  of  ends 
in  a  dent  equal,  thenumber  of  reed  can  be  ascertained. 

Example  9. — A  fabric  has  to  be  made  with  1584  ends,  spread  28  inches 
in  reed.    16  extra  ends  added  for  selvage.    What  reed  used? 

1584 — 16=1568  ends  without  selvages. 

1568-^28=56  ends  per  inch  in  reed. 

56-^2=28  reed. 

Example  9.  A  fabric  has  to  be  made  27  inches  wide  with  64  ends  per 
inch.    30  inches  in  reed.    Add  24  ends  extra  for  selvage. 

How  many  ends  in  warp? 

What  reed  will  be  used? 

64x27=1728  ends  without  selvages. 

1728+24=1752  ends  with  selvages. 

1728^2=864  dents  to  be  spread  on  30  inches. 

864-30=28.8  reed.  Or.  reed  can  be  indicated  as  follows:  864-30 
which  means  864  dents  on  30  inches. 

In  the  production  of  stripe  fabrics  the  ends  are  not  drawn  through 
the  reed  equally  throughout.  Some  portion  of  the  fabric  may  have  two 
ends  per  dent,  then  another  portion  four  or  six  ends  per  dent,  according 
to  the  density  of  the  stripe  required  or  the  thickness  of  the  ends  used. 
The  following  example  will  illustrate. 
Example  10. — A  warp  is  reeded  as  follows: 

16  dents  2  ends  in  a  dent  equals  32  ends 
4  dents  4  ends  in  a  dent  equals  16  ends 

14  dents  2  ends  in  a  dent  equals  28  ends 
6  dents  4  ends  in  a  dent  equals  24  ends 

40  dents  100  ends 

100-^40=2y2  ends  per  inch. 

Using  a  20  reed,  how  many  ends  per  inch  2*^x20=50  ends  per  inch  in 
reed. 

There  is  always  a  contraction  between  cloth  width  and  the  width  of 
yarn  in  reed.  This  contraction  varies  according  to  proportion  of  ends 
to  pick;  sizes  of  yarns  used;  weave  used  and  other  causes.  For  example, 
there  is  generally  more  contraction  on  plain  weave  than  on  a  sateen 
weave  because  there  are  more  intersections  in  plain  weave  than  i«  sateen 
weave. 


0 


98  Practical  Loom  Fixing 

If  the  warp  is  hard  twisted  and  the  filling  soft  twisted  the  cloth  will 
contract  more  in  width  than  length. 

If  the  filling  is  finer  than  the  warp  and  soft,  the  cloth  will  contract 
more  in  width.  Too  much  tension  on  the  warp  will  make  cloth  longer 
and  narrower  in  width.  One  method  of  obtaining  the  contraction  between 
cloth  and  width  in  reed  is  to  take  a  thread  from  a  certain  length  of  cloth 
and  measure  same.  The  difference  between  cloth  length  and  length  of 
thread  represents  the  contraction. 

Example  11. — A  cloth  30  inches  wide  has  64  ends  per  inch.  Width  of 
estimated  at  32  inches.    What  number  of  re^d  will  be  used? 

64x30=  1920  ends. 

1920^2=960  dents. 

960^32=30  reed. 

Still  another  method  is  to  make  a  calculation  from  the  sley  of  cloth 
required  and  use  a  rule  that  will  give  a  sliding  rate  of  contraction.  This 
rule  is  as  follows: 

Rule:  Deduct  1  from  the  sley,  then  from  the  answer  subtract  5  per 
cent.    The  answer  will  be  sley  or  ends  per  inch  in  reed. 

Example  12. — A  cloth  30  inches  wide  has  64  ends  per  inch.  What 
number  of  reed  will  be  used? 

64-1=63. 
63— 5% =59.85  sley  or  ends  per  inch  in  reed. 

59.85-^2=29.92  reed. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  answers  to  examples  11  and  12  are  prac- 
tically the  same.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  ends  and  picks  would  be 
about  equal.  This  rule  is  not  always  practical,  but  is  used  frequently  on 
average  constructions  because  of  the  sliding  rate  which  decreases  as  the 
sley  increases. 


INDEX 

Page 

Auxiliary  Shaft  for  Twill  Goods. 46 

Automatic  or  Labor  Saving  Looms 58 

Arranging  the  Colors  in  Boxes _ 66 

Binders  „ _...  26 

-Beating  Up  -. 29 

Belt  Slipping 50 

Boxes  Too  Loose  _ _._ 56 

Box  Motion _ 64 

Breakage  Preventors  _ 74 

Binders  on  Gingham  Looms ..- 72 

Boxes  Skipping ._ 74 

Bent  Connecting  Links  „ 81 

Belts   ._ 85 

Bobbins  on  Floor  _ _ _ 86 

Construction  of  Cams _ 19 

Cover  or  Face  on  Cloth 41 

Cost  of  Adding  "Face"  or  Cover  to  Cloth 43 

Cloth  Without  Face  or  Cover 43 

Cloth  With  Face  or  Cover 43 

Changes  Required  _ _ 47 

Cracked  or  Part  Broken  Lug  Strap .^_ 49 

Cracked  Picker  Stick •  49 

Change  of  Atmosphere _. 51 

Crooked  Running  Shuttle  52 

Crooked  Running  Shuttle  56 

Cutting  Filling  55 

Care  of  Looms 85 

Chain  Barrel  on  Wrong  Time 83 

Chain  Bar  Too  Short _ _.. 81 

Chain  Bar  Too  Large 84 

Chain  Bars  Too  Far  Apart..... 84 

Chain  Barrel  Not  Turned  Over  Far  Enough 82 

Calculations  for  Cotton  Harness  87 

Calculations  for  Reeds  _ 88 

Dobby  Head  Motion _ 76 

Dobby  Loom 75 

Dobby  Fixing  Points _ _  82 

Double  Index  Dobby ._ _ 76 

Driving  Chain  Barrel  _ 78 

Drawing  in  the  Warp 81 

Effect  of  Pick  on  the  Eccentricity  of  Lay 31 

Examination  of  Cloth _     _  86 

Friction  Let-Off  36 

Filling  Stop  Motion _ _ 37 

Filling  Slipping  Up  or  Down  on  Fork. 52 

Fork  Too  Far  Through  Grate 52 

Filling  Catching  on  Fork 52 

Filling  and  Bobbins  Breaking 56 

Gear  Let-Off  Motion _ 34 

Gear  Required  47 

Groove  in  Shuttle  Not  Deep  Enough ..._ 55 

Gudgeons  or  Beam  Spikes  Bent_ _ 57 

Gingham  Looms  _ 63 

Gingham  Loom  Box  Chain  Building _ „. 66 

Gingham  Loom  Fixing  Points 72 

Guide   Plates   74 

Harness  Straps  Lapping  Under 57 

Harness  Levers  Too  Tight 84 

Influence  of  Tih  Roll  on  Picks  Per  Inch . 33 

Index  Finger  Binding 84 

Jack  Hook  Binding  84 


INDEX 

Page 

Lost  Motion  in  Cone . ._ 50 

Lease  Rods 45 

Loom  Banging  or  Slamming 49 

Late  Pick 49 

Loose  Picker  Stick 50 

Lug  Strap  Too  Far  From  Picker  Stick . 54 

Loom  Stopping 51 

Loose  Top  Shed . — . 55 

Loose  Crank  Arm 57 

Measurements  for  Size  of  Shed . 17 

Multiplier  Motion . . . 67 

Not  Sufficient  Friction  on  Filling 52 

Northrop  Loom 62 

Overfaced  Reed . 53 

Operation  of  Motion  and  Boxes 64 

Operating  Double  Index  Dobby 77 

Obtaining  the  Size  of  Shed 78 

Plain  Looms . . . . — .  9 

Picking  Motion . 20 

Parallel  Motion 21 

Protector  Motion — : . 39 

Pick  Too  Early 55 

Pick  Too  Strong 56 

Preparation  of  Harness  Shafts .-  80 

Pegs  in  Chain  Bar  Not  Set  Straight 82 

Peg  Toe  Short 84 

Positive  Let-Off  Motion - 36 

Putting  on  New  Picker 73 

Pattern  Chain  Pegging . 79 

Relation  of  Picker  Stick  to  Binder 29 

Roll  and  Spring  Top 48 

Rubbing  of  Dagger  Against  Frog 53 

Rebounding  Shuttle 55 

Rebounding  Shuttle 50 

Race  Plate  Loose 55 

Rope  on  Friction  Let-Oflf  Binding 57 

Setting  Shedding  Motion - 9 

Shedding  Motion 9 

Setting  Harness  Roll 15 

Shedding  Cams 18 

letting  Lug  Straps '. 23 

Saving  Pickers  . : 26 

Setting  Picker  Stick 26 

Setting  Take-Up   Paw! 34 

Setting  the  Motion 34 

Setting  the  Fork 38 

Shape  of  Fork 38 

Setting   Protector   Fingers . 40 

Setting  for  Reedy  Cloth  41 

Setting  for  Covered   Cloth 42 

Setting  the  Temple 45 

Shuttles     » 46 

Shedding  Cams  Too  Early 51 

Shedding  Cams  Too  Late  ' 51 

Shipper  Handle  Stand  Worn 53 

Shuttle    Flying    Out i 53 

Sharp  Eyelet   m  Shuttle 56 

Shuttle   Rising  in  Box 56 

Sharp  Filling  Fork  and  Grate 56 

Soft    Bobbin ___4 56 

Shuttle  Spindle  Too  Small  for  Cop ._ 56 


INDEX 

Page 

Shuttle  Spindle  Sharp 56 

Small  Pinion  Gear  Tooo  Deep  in  Beam  Head 57 

Still   Motion  Box  68 

Shuttle    Check    Cam   71 

Sharp  Edges  in  Boxes  73 

Shuttles   Working  Loose  . 73 

Setting   the   Boxes   74 

Single    Index   Dobby   76 

Setting  Dobbv  on  Loom 78 

Starting  Up  Dobbies  78 

Starting  Up  the  Warp  ^ 81 

Starting   Up   on   Time    85 

System  of  Setting  Shedding  Cams  __ 86 

Setting  of  Whip  Rolls  86 

Timing  of  Shedding  Motion  17 

Timing  of  Picking  Motion 22 

Take-Up   Motion   31 

Timing  of  Stop  Motion  39 

Thin    Place   Preventer   39 

Temples    — 44 

Timing  of  Twill  or  Sateen  Cams  48 

Temple  Too  Low  ■. 55 

Take  Up  Motion  Out  of  Order  57 

The  Stafford  Loom  - 58 

Timing  of  Box  Motion  65 

Timing  of  Still  Box  Motion  __ 71 

Uneven  Cloth  _  56 

Uneven  Filling - 57 

Underfaced  Reed  - - 54 

Waste     .. - 86 

Wire  Heddles 88 

Wea k  P ick  49 

Worn  Pick  Point  — 51 

Wrong  Timing  of  Stop  Motion  Cam  — 59 

Worn  Picker  — 55 

Worn  Pawl  or  Gear  in  Gear  Off  Pawl 57 

Worm  and  Worm  Gear  Binding — .. 57 

Warp  Stop  Motion  61 

Warp  Stop  Motions  63 

Wrong  Setting  of  Chain  Barrel  83 

Weak  Spring  on  Chain  Barrel  Shaft 83 

Worn  Index  Finger  and  Index  Finger  Rod  ._ 84 

Yarn  Too  High  Off  Race  Plae  -- 54 


ILENT  CHAIN  DRIVF-S 


Saving  Valuable  Space 


The  installation  shown  here  admirably 
illustrates  how  a  Morse  Silent  Chain 
Drive  is  saving  space  in  this  Southern 
Knitting  Mill. 

The  motor,  chain  and  casing  are 
mounted  on  a  stand  and  occupy  a 
surprisingly  small  space  on  one  side  of 
the  line  shaft. 

In  addition,  this  method  of  installation 
has  the  following  distinct  advantages: 

MAKES  ROOM  CLEANER 

The  elevated  mounting  precludes  dust 
and   lint  adhering  to   base   of   motor. 


GIVES  BETTER  ARC  OF 
CONTACT 

Because  the  small  sprocket  is  higher 
than  the  large  sprocket. 

REDUCES  FIRE  HAZARD 

By  preventing  oil  soaked  floors. 

These  advantages,  coupled  with  the 
fact  that  Morse  Chains  transmit  98.6% 
of  power  developed,  demonstrates  its 
efficiency  in  providing  smooth  contin- 
ual operation  of  the  spindles  at  con- 
stant speed,  with  the  minimum  of 
upkeep. 

Permit  Morse  Engineers  to  prepare  a 
drive  that  will  solve  your  transmission 
probleins  to  your  entire  satisfaction. 


MORSE  CHAIN  CO.,  ITHACA,  N.  Y. 

There  is  a  Morse  Engineer  near  you 


ATLANTA,  GA. 
BALTIMORE,  MD. 
BOSTON,  MASS. 
CHARLOTTE,  N.C. 
CHICAGO,  ILL. 
CLEVELAND,  OHIO 


DENVER,  COLO. 
DETROIT.  MICH. 

NEW  YORK  CITY 
MINNEAPOLIS,  MINN. 
MONTREAL,QUE.,CAN. 


2110-30 


PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 
PITTSBURGH,  PA. 
SAN  FRANCISCO,  CAL. 
ST.  LOUIS,  MO. 
TORONTO.  ONT.>  CAN. 
WINNIPEG,  MAN., CAN". 


&/~'VW'^^^^'''^'^'^^ 


i 


